Asterisk

iTrader: (3)

http://www.baddad.com/mazda.htm

Buying that, - suspension, rad, and winter tires. We agreed on $3800. The car has a rebuild, new brakes, clean and pretty good interior, corksport 3" turbo-back, S5 lights, the BBS rims, Boost gauge, new clutch and flywheel, poly engine mounts, pretty damn good body, no rust, except for the dent, and the sunroof (but I can repaint that no prob) It's a base with a T2 swap, the guy went over the car, and did a lot of the "basic little maintence crap" that we all need to do with our cars. I think that this is a pretty good deal, and it's only a 3hr drive away from me.

Killert2

Now Thats a real good deal in my opinion I would buy that beauty in a heart beat if i had the cash

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

get it.

Asterisk

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, I'm buying from a member here, his name is Pookie. For the most part, everything he has told me, in our conversation, and multile PMs, stands up and checks out, so I'm pretty trustfull. I am however always cautious, but it's just the way I am.

Mazdapunk87

incredible hulk green, its clean

Asterisk

iTrader: (3)

Merger from another thread on the same car:

So, I'm in the process of buying a T2 swapped S4. It's not stock. I've bought a Haynes FSM for it and spent a lot of time on here before finally committing to buying an FC. The previous owner did the swap, rebuild, 5 lug conversion, and upgraded the electronics system with a SAFC, 255lph walbro, 680cc secondary injectors, along with a ported wastegate and a boost contoller, running 11psi.

He monitored it with a SAFC AEM wideband MAF and a boost gauge.

Since then, the SAFC and MAF are off the car, and have been sold. I'm a little tight on money right now, but planning on buying an SAFC and wideband really soon.
However, I'm not shure that I will be able to use it to it's full potential.

My plan is, to get another Wideband AFM, and a secondhand SAFC for the car when I get it, but I'm a little afraid of fudging it up. Can you guys help me with some links, and any info you can help me with? Thx! ( I posted this in the electronix section, but we get like zERO traffic through there!)

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Is it a full swap? or just an engine?

Go check it out. looks like a good deal. Check out the floors/rockers for rust and move in or move along.

Turbo FTW.

Asterisk

iTrader: (3)

The car is a N/A Base, it has been converted to T2 5lug hubs/brakes, the brakes have less than 2000miles on em, (pads, rotors, fluid, etc.) The swap was rebuilt, and the new clutch added. The seller said that the engine work, brakes, and suspension(that's comming off the car for stock shocks because I'm buying stance GR+ coilovers anyway) was all done at the same time. The reason for sale, is a loss of enthusiasm, and the fact that the seller works 40hrs a week and has class the rest of the time, therefore, no time to work on the car, or enjoy driving it. The invested amout he quoted was around $9000, and that that the car, althrough it does not seem like it, has been almost fully overhaulled from bumper to bumer. Now, I have seen quite a bit of pictures, and taked both over the phone and through pm with the seller, but have still not seen the car in person.

The car is not 100% perfect, it has a dent in the left front quarter, and the sunroof clear coat paint has faded. It does not come with all parts, like the AC, PS, OMP, spare tire and tools (due to 5lug conversion) The rear wiper is missing as seen in the pics, FTP (in glovebox), umm, that's about it. Ironic, but most of this stuff, I would have taken out myself, so no point in it really being there.

Anyway, any more opinions on it? Here's some more pics:



The dent in the panell:







Well, there are more. I straight linked those to point out some stuff and to show how nice it does look.

Engine bay shot: (the reason for the IC sitting wierd is becuase a bolt was not installed, all good and tidy now.



Well, is this really worth $3,800? I think it is, but at the same time, That IS a lot of money for a 20y/o car, so... plz sctrutinize as closely as possible, the life of a rotorhead is at stake here guys!

Asterisk

iTrader: (3)

Oh, yeah, and does anyone have carfax or something around here? I need a vin check plz:

JM1FC3317H0543297 Thanks.

Also, the way the steeing colum is, he said, no it wasn't broken into or stolen, just that the piece has cracked or was missing. He also stated that he knew the previous owner.... which I can't exaclty know 100%, and have to take his word on it. The guy owned the car since 2005, and has done all the mods and cleanup during that time.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

It is plausible that the steering column cover thing broke, mine did that.

I'd talk him down to 3500.

Wh1t3 C0m3t

not bad, but why green

Asterisk

iTrader: (3)

You dont like it? I think it's bitchin! I can also always paint it that wierd blue color, since they "Kind of" look simmilar and easy to blend together.

Evil Aviator

The engine will not run properly without the SAFC. The seller is either a dipshit, or trying to hide major engine problems. FYI just because the engine was rebuilt doesn't necessarily mean that it is in good shape.

Also, real vert BBS wheels are 15x6.5". Make sure those aren't look-alikes.

Asterisk

iTrader: (3)

Ok, can you clarify on that a bit more? Apparently it has a manual boost controller, 680cc secondary injectors, and a 2bar map sensor. and a walbro. This is in case you missed it. The info is all there in the link.

also, it does not state 15x7, i just thought that they are. so the real ones are 6.5 eh? I guess we all learn something new every day!

What I meant was, SAFC, and AEM O2 sensor, NOT MAF. The MAF sensor is still there, as the engine shot shows. Although, I'm confused as to why it is, because isnt MAP "manifold Air Pressure?" I will call him about that.

Asterisk

iTrader: (3)

Couple of things: I called the seller and he will post all info that was said on here later tonight. I am concerned that this might also be linked to the heat not working.

What he said: The car has a replaced NA harness, and is running off the stock NA ECU, the extra fuel is supplied by the bigger pump and injectors, so it has plenty of fuel and is running a bit rich at the moment. the boost is controlled by the ported wastegate on the turbo, and the mechanical boost controller. This to me looks like it works as a "cheap, almost ghetto way to do it, and scares the crap out of me. But then, DSM cars can make 50HP with a little check valve spliced into the vacum line on the turbo.

The car used to have the SAFC on it, run off the MAP sensor, but there were issues that he could not figure out, so he took off the SAFC, and the old cracked harness with all the safc wires in it, and replaced it with a new one. This did not solve the problem, but it was later figured out that the TPS sensor was malfunctioning. It was replaced and the problem went away.

More info to come from the seller himself.

Evil Aviator

Right. Depending on which computer the car has, its factory tuning assumes 460cc or 550cc fuel injectors. The computer has no way to know what size injectors are installed, so it will continue to inject fuel as normal, which will cause the engine to run pig rich with the larger 680cc injectors. Therefore, in its current configuration, the car requires some type of fuel computer in order to run correctly, as well as some tuning to lean out the mixture when the secondaries kick in. I would recommend a standalone EMS and professional tuning, but you would at least need something like the SAFC to make it run correctly. Anyway, when you take it for a test drive, it will not run correctly, and the owner will attribute that to the loss of the SAFC. While this is true, it could be masking major engine problems. Therefore, the owner is either a dipshit, or he is hiding something.

The advertisement says the car has "BBS 'Vert wheels", and comes with "a set of S4 GXL wheels that have worn out Kumhos on them" and "a set of S5 GXL wheels wrapped in Blizzaks that come with the car". Therefore, the car should have one set of the very sought after and very light weight BBS 15x6.5 Vert wheels, along with two more sets of decent wheels.

Apparently, the car has a 2bar MAP sensor replacing the original 1bar MAP sensor that was stock on the non-turbo engine. In theory, that would give the engine pressure input up to roughly 14.7psi boost. I'm not sure how well such ghetto conversions work, so you may want to search this forum to check on the details.

Pookie

I'm unsure why you are saying it will not run properly without an SAFC. I guess I am unsure of what your definition of "properly" is, but it currently runs very well and very safely without one.

Pookie

^ Nevermind, you posted while I was posting.

You are correct that the current ECU is not regulating for the additional fuel. The car is currently sitting with the factory N327 ECU and factory NA harness. While the car is not tuned precisely for the injector combo, it has enough fuel to run very safe AFRs.

The 2bar MAP was used to run the SAFC. As I'm sure you know, the SAFC can be set to either run off TPS or MAP. The 2bar was used for tuning with the SAFC. As Asterisk mentioned, the harness with the SAFC was removed and replaced with a "cleaner" harness to troubleshoot another problem. Once I found out the problem was not in the harness but rather the TPS, the SAFC was never re-installed. Regardless, the car still turns very safe AFRs.

Even a dipshit like me can handle that.

Evil Aviator

vs.

OK, so it runs very well, yet the ECU is not regulating for the additional fuel. How can that be?


PS: Asterisk, the car may be worth a lot of money if you can document that Pookie = Bill Clinton. It depends what your definition of "is" is, er, I mean "properly" is.

Asterisk

iTrader: (3)

Bill Clinton as in, the person does not say the truth? Im not shure what you mean there.

The biggest matter to me is, will the thing drive long enough to get it home, and then drive it untill I can purchase an SAFC, and a wideband for it, and get it tuned?

By that, I mean, in this condition, is it still worth getting? And will it do a 3hr trip back to my house? I will only need to drive it for a couple of weeks before getting the parts. I will also need to secure insurance for it, and get the title back, so it will be around a month before I will be driving it anyway. I am shure I can get a SAFC and Wideband 02 from ebay by then and install em, then tune the car with the help of some friends and a lot of reading.

This is really discouraging...

Pookie

The car runs safely and consistant with safe AFRs. As you said, the ECU is not tuned precisely for these injectors as a professionally tuned stand alone would be, but there is no reason that it cannot run very safely as it is.

I'm not sure why you're such a hater.

Asterisk

iTrader: (3)

Will you consider going down to 3500? That's the price for a full SAFC kit on ebay....

Derek King

iTrader: (2)

lol dude because we like funny ratarded colors in our engine bays. thats why they are better than us duh.

i know the backround of that car scince 1999 it sat till i turned 16 in 03 i then i went and bought it from a neighbor changed the plugs and started it and drove it away, my friend got the car from me then blew the engine at rotary revolution and the car sat till pookie got it and had it turbo'd yaay

Evil Aviator

... and I'm not sure why you detuned the engine prior to the sale.

Yes, it should run OK at cruise and under light throttle assuming the missing SAFC is the only problem. Unfortunately, it will be difficult to test drive in the boost regions without the SAFC. Also, you don't need to spend the money on a wideband AFR meter and sensor if you get it professionally tuned.

I think it's still worth getting due to all the extras, assuming you like them. If you plan on racing, the extra wheels are a big plus if they are in good shape. Unfortunately, the engine is suspect in my opinion, so you may want to keep some cash in a money market account just in case you need a rebuild in the near future. If the engine ends up OK, then after all your other upgrades you can use the money to replace the suspension as you mentioned, as this should be scheduled dead last in my opinion due to the nice suspension currently on the car.

Also, towing coverage usually only adds about $12/year to your car insurance premiums.

Asterisk

iTrader: (3)

Well, then that settles it. Here's another trick. Ok, so I go and get a comp tester from autozone, and since the engine is "supposedly" rebuilt, and broken in, it should give very good compression. So, if this checks out, then theoretically the engine is ok... Here's the trick... what else do I check for? I was thinking a light burnout to check for the LSD and new clutch.... but that's bit a bit of a dumb way to go about it.

About cruising: If I roll under 3800rpms, then, the secondaries will not come on... so the stock ecu should give good milage under this. However, isn't the fuel map different for the NA below 3800rpm, compared to the T2, and wont this make it actually run lean? I can counter that with the fact that N/A engines run richer stock even with the higher comp, and they need some SAFC tuning to get them leaner and going faster. From all this, I can assume that the car will be fine under light load conditions.

Pookie I sent you a PM.

PS: Wow, t this crazy ghetto insane tune thing is actually turning out quite wierd, but not in a bad way. Also, this now kind of makes some crazy sense! I plan to autocross the car, and use it as my daily, if I get it. Also, the suspension is going out and the stock shocks/springs are going in.

I thank you both for taking the time to take a closer look at the issue. I feel that I have learned a lot about the car though all the info that was provided, which makes me feel more secure about buying it. Paranoia is uncurable... that's just way it is, brotha!