i am keeping my motor mods to what i have but what else do i do?? what can i get rid of and what to keep??
Dave

 

never heard of a "drag only" FC.

 

um...

I have no idea what motor mods you have, but if I were going to build a drag only car, the first thing to go would be the rear end in favor of a 9" ford..

Then a serious diet.

PaulC

 

yea you need to lay off on the poundage and if your drag only are you driving it cause i would take out all the reinforcemnt **** in the front behind the bumper cover anything that is heavy or seems to be taking up room i could think of a lot of things to take out but dont feel like typing them out a rear end is a good choice by silkworm you dont have a choice of drag springs like a honda ( on the sport compact side) or mustang so get the racing beat springs linear hard rate and id get two spare tires like the aluminum spoke kind and put them up front haha and then start thinking about the engine and see what you need and dont

 

sorry tranny wise a close close close ratio would be good something that kept you in the revs i really dont know numbers stage5 clutch or triple plate clutch id only go with a chromoly flywheel so its not to light for a lightweight flywheel and you can keep some torque at the line

 

The only gauges you need should be boost, EGT, and tach . Toss the rest and save .5 pounds!

 

Rotorific: Dude, do any of your punctuation keys work?

DJChunter: Considering it is a track only drag car, start stripping any unnecessary weight from the car.

BTW, determine which class you want to compete in. That'll help in determining whether some "modifications" are allowed or not.

 

Put a v-8 in it. Seriosly. If it is going to be "drag only", its pointless to keep the low torque , light weight rotary. Slap a SBC or a ford 5.0 in it, and go from there. Im not being an *** or anything, but i dont think anyone will argue with me that for drag racing a v-8 will be far better than a rotary.

 

http://www.nhrasportcompact.com/2001/news/101801.html

 

 

my mods.. stock rebuild S4 motor with S5 rotors, RB header, honed S5 intake, tb mod, cold air intake, kevlar dual friction clutch, and 550cc secondaries, black magic electric fan, ram air.. i planned on ripping everything out of the interior besides the drivers seat... and leaving that dash(but take everything not needed out.. i just need to know what else i can do.. dave

 

Ah Ha Ha!

Once you finish stripping the interior, I bet youll be looking at a low 16 second quarter mile.

Chris

 

Is that a opinion?

 

Hehe, I see you dont agree with my opinion Im just saying that if you are really concerned with drag racing, a low torque rotary probably isnt the bast choice. Now I dont really like the idea of a v-8 in an rx-7, but you cant deny the fact that a very torquey engine in a pretty light car=fast 1/4 times. Now I know that there are 9 second FCs, not saying that it isnt possible, but a v-8 will probably be easier to get to that power level, and last longer once there.

 

Yes, and a not very well-informed one at that. I ran low 16's in my heavy, stock engined with exhaust (with a cat) and filter, 3.9 one-legged diff convertible.

His car is at least 300# lighter stock, has a 4.1 differential, headers, no cat, higher compression, a higher redline, etc...

If he isn't low 15's without stripping it something is wrong.

Brad

 

The FC's semi-trailing arm rear suspension is designed for good cornering and is totally unsuitable for dedicated drag use. When it squats under hard acceleration the negative camber increases dramatically, reducing the tyres' grip. If you really want a dedicated drag car, either budget a whole lot of money for a complete new rear end set-up, or find a more suitable car, preferably one with a solid rear axle and a lot less weight!