What didn't I hook up right??
03-03-04, 06:01 PM
#1
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What didn't I hook up right??
I spent two nights here searching the past posts, and solved one problem, only to find another.
The Car: 86 FC GXL...
I noticed a fuel leak, and my Haynes manual led me to the pulsation dampener. I shelled out a hundred and fifty bucks that I didn't have to get one from Mazda. (dirty rotten scoundrels...) I didn't want to put it on myself, because the procedure involved taking off the Dynamic chamber/Surge tank, and frankly, that's a lotta dern wires...
After finding out it was going to cost 300 in labor charges, I was motivated to try myself. After twenty minutes of easier than anticipated labor, I had the new piece on. Turn the key, and we get engine rotation, but no start.
After two nights of insanity checking, double checking, triple checking, I find I have not gotten any closer to starting the car. Last night I did some internet searches and determined that my car was probably flooded. I disconnected the MAF, and cranked it over until it started, sputtered, and died, then reconnected the MAF, and it started right up. It hasn't started since, but that may be due to another problem that cropped up while it was running.
After I got it started, it began pouring white smoke out the tailpipes like a fog machine at a rock concert. I assumed it was fuel vaporizing out of the exhaust manifold and pipes, but it never stopped. Not only that, but the idle is VERY rough. I'm assuming I'm only running on one rotor, and fuel is being pumped through the other one to create the fun clouds.
The car never flooded back when the PD was leaking, nor did the car ever miss a spark. I'm worried that I may not have put the Dynamic Chamber/Surge tank back on right. Are there any connections that I might have missed while performing the operation?
Thanks for putting up with my drawn out tale, and any reccomendations would be greatly appreciated.
~Livin' on a budget-
Brave Blue Mice.
The Car: 86 FC GXL...
I noticed a fuel leak, and my Haynes manual led me to the pulsation dampener. I shelled out a hundred and fifty bucks that I didn't have to get one from Mazda. (dirty rotten scoundrels...) I didn't want to put it on myself, because the procedure involved taking off the Dynamic chamber/Surge tank, and frankly, that's a lotta dern wires...
After finding out it was going to cost 300 in labor charges, I was motivated to try myself. After twenty minutes of easier than anticipated labor, I had the new piece on. Turn the key, and we get engine rotation, but no start.
After two nights of insanity checking, double checking, triple checking, I find I have not gotten any closer to starting the car. Last night I did some internet searches and determined that my car was probably flooded. I disconnected the MAF, and cranked it over until it started, sputtered, and died, then reconnected the MAF, and it started right up. It hasn't started since, but that may be due to another problem that cropped up while it was running.
After I got it started, it began pouring white smoke out the tailpipes like a fog machine at a rock concert. I assumed it was fuel vaporizing out of the exhaust manifold and pipes, but it never stopped. Not only that, but the idle is VERY rough. I'm assuming I'm only running on one rotor, and fuel is being pumped through the other one to create the fun clouds.
The car never flooded back when the PD was leaking, nor did the car ever miss a spark. I'm worried that I may not have put the Dynamic Chamber/Surge tank back on right. Are there any connections that I might have missed while performing the operation?
Thanks for putting up with my drawn out tale, and any reccomendations would be greatly appreciated.
~Livin' on a budget-
Brave Blue Mice.
03-03-04, 06:07 PM
#2
Lives on the Forum
1) sure you got the primary injector connectors back on there right? that wiring is old & brittle- especially at the black backshell area that gets shoved under the PD- did you break it?
2) did it run like total s#it when you had it running? Have to keep your foot on the gas to keep it running? That would point to a dead injector or severe flooding in one rotor
2) did it run like total s#it when you had it running? Have to keep your foot on the gas to keep it running? That would point to a dead injector or severe flooding in one rotor
03-08-04, 04:51 PM
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The car is getting plenty of fuel, but one cylinder is dead at idle, and misfiring bad through the rpm range. When the car warms up and is at low idle, the one rotor can't keep the thing running... could it be my ECU? If I start it up, and WOT, it kicks down and goes like hell, which indicates to me that there's just something small wrong.
(I also broke a vacuum thingy that I can't identify or seem to buy, it's unrelated to the problem as a whole, because it didn't affect performace beforehand. It's a little cylindrical thing in the vacuum line between the throttle cable linkage, and the control actuator for the upper throttle valves... What's it called so I can finally get a new one)
-Brave Blue Mice.
(I also broke a vacuum thingy that I can't identify or seem to buy, it's unrelated to the problem as a whole, because it didn't affect performace beforehand. It's a little cylindrical thing in the vacuum line between the throttle cable linkage, and the control actuator for the upper throttle valves... What's it called so I can finally get a new one)
-Brave Blue Mice.
03-08-04, 04:53 PM
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The car is getting plenty of fuel, but one cylinder is dead at idle, and misfiring bad through the rpm range. When the car warms up and is at low idle, the one rotor can't keep the thing running... could it be my ECU? If I start it up, and WOT, it kicks down and goes like hell, which indicates to me that there's just something small wrong.
(I also broke a vacuum thingy that I can't identify or seem to buy, it's unrelated to the problem as a whole, because it didn't affect performace beforehand. It's a little cylindrical thing in the vacuum line between the throttle cable linkage, and the control actuator for the upper throttle valves... What's it called so I can finally get a new one)
-Brave Blue Mice.
P.S. Does anybody know where I can get an ECU coded cheap, or a cheap code reader. I was wondering if that might help...
(I also broke a vacuum thingy that I can't identify or seem to buy, it's unrelated to the problem as a whole, because it didn't affect performace beforehand. It's a little cylindrical thing in the vacuum line between the throttle cable linkage, and the control actuator for the upper throttle valves... What's it called so I can finally get a new one)
-Brave Blue Mice.
P.S. Does anybody know where I can get an ECU coded cheap, or a cheap code reader. I was wondering if that might help...
03-08-04, 05:02 PM
#5
I have a duel LED code scanner/ TPS tester I can send you for $25 shipped. Or you can build your own, its pretty straight forward. Id start looking for vacuum leaks, as that seems to be the cause of most of the problems when less experienced (no offense to you.) people start removing the intake manifolds. Did you replace all intake gaskets, and make sure all old gasket material is scrapped off? Did you get new 0-rings and injector grommets for the secondary injectors? Get a can of carb cleaner, and start spraying it around the engine bacy in places youd think you could have a possible intake leak. The idle will jump up when the carb cleaner is sucked in somewhere.
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