Schmitty

iTrader: (11)

I pulled my motor apart to find this... Looks like somebody spilled like a coffee coolata on my housing as I was disassembling my motor...

When I took off the Rear iron there was noting on the rotor housing but when I took that off there was a brown liquid... with the consistancy of a milkshake... I assume it is oil mixed with coolant... but where did it come from? does oil and coolant just react like that when they come in contact or do they have to be churned up?

nothing...

Crap!


It continued down through the rest of the motor...




What would be leaking/ broken to cause this sort of thing to happen? It was only in that part of the housings...

F1blueRx7

iTrader: (5)

Thats what oil looks like when it's mixed with moisture. It turns white. Probably a blown coolant seal. You might want to look for cracks around that part of the housing as well.

philly blunt

yea deffinaly oil mixed with either coolant or water thats what i think

Kenteth

Augh.... milkshake photos like that are always frighenting

powrdby13B

in the 4th pic you can see the "sealing rubber" (as mazda calls them) is NOT where it's sposed to be... that's how accidents happen...

Schmitty

iTrader: (11)

So... when I put this back together with my new seals(as long as its not craked/broken) then problem solved? That sucks because everthing else in the engine was normal... the color is should be... no cross contamination... except for gas in the oil. Plus the inside face of the rotor housings looks pretty good too... so i would hate to have to scrap them becasue of something like this!

Bigretardhead

yep, thats what coolant/water+oil mixed together looks like.

and yes, new coolant seals would fix the problem unless there's a crack or warping or something like that.

Schmitty

iTrader: (11)

the housing is shifted in that picture... I was just about to lift it off when I said "what the hell," and set it down(not lined up) and took a picture of it

powrdby13B

well never mind then...
were any of the seals broken or out of place? and did you detonate ever or did you overheat? things like this generally don't happen for no reason..

Schmitty

iTrader: (11)

This is all I know(I think)...Nothing was broken... The motor showed no signs of excessive overheating... there was no brown varnish on the bottom of the rotor housings when I took off the oil pan, None of the other seals were compromised. The black outside seal came out in one piece on the front iron, but the red one was brittle and came out in several with the aide of a pick. I bought the car with a "blown motor" that I got running but never drove it further than 2 miles... Had very low compression 25-25-25 in one rotor and 15-15-15 on the other (I believe). There is not excessive wear on the surface of the irons or rotor housings(haven't put the dial gauges to them but they feel smooth). It did smoke a bit on start up, light whisps of white smoke that smelled like fuel not coolant... May have even been steam since I had it parked in a green house(high humidity). The previous owner said he never had overheating problems, he just lost compression, tried the ATF trick(I hear that is bad for seals) and got compression back, Then a few months later he lost it again. Driven 3 seasons a year.. so no rust on the car. No salt in the engine bay. And thats about All I can think of atm.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

The second car I ever owned was a 57 Chevy, with a 'fresh' rebuild. Theh kid that rebuilt, didn't check the top of the block, under the intake manifold. By the time I got it home, it was toast. I drained 15 qts. of that foamy **** out of the oil pan. The block had 2 cracks front to back.

Schmitty

iTrader: (11)

I didn't get to pressure test the coolant system before I pulled the engine but there were no bubbles that I saw when It was running, warmed up and cold, when I had the radiator cap off... Dunno if that is significant... just thought I'd add it.

alwayssideways

i had a freeze plug rot through on my t2 which caused something alot like what you have. in fact the milkshake went everywhere. here is the pic. BTW it was the plug in the front housing above and to the right of the oil pump .. check your freeze plugs

slpin

iTrader: (9)

oh yeah
that is what comes out of my blown engine from the heater hose by the filter

NSBerkland

that milkshake brings all the..... man that sucks :\

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

damn right, its better than yors

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

a coolant seal/o-ring couldn't do that... not by any stretch of my imagination... at least you got it apart before anything rusted

check the freeze plugs

jhammons01

MMMmmmm, Yummy, Ben and Jerry's

I wonder if that is the radiator stop leak.

I think its just oil and water mixed. I'm just throwing it out there.

Schmitty

iTrader: (11)

I looked for obvios cracks today but came up with noting. I inspected the seals on the intermediate housing and the red seal was cracked in the middle(crack following the seal about 1/2 inch long then extending to opposite edges of the seal) at the point where the coffee colored crud begins... Could this cause said problem? Then there is alittle residue of this crap where the water pump joins the front iron but nothing that I can see in the water pump looking down the tubes.. Should I take the water pump apart to see if it is inside?

RotaryWeaponSE7EN

iTrader: (6)

Wow thats cool. I cant wait for it to happen to me.

jhammons01

I think you should read this thread.


https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/doing-block-weld-trick-bad-water-seals-398880/

See if your the recipiant of the block weld.

ScrappyDoo

iTrader: (7)

I used some Prestone Organic Coolant Stop Leak and that is exactly the colour of the product. It should be hard to touch.

BlaCkPlaGUE

If your going to do the block weld trick, use a shitty older rad and re-route the heater core piping. I've been told this can clog the heater core and start to clog the rad.

Im still thinking of doing it if I need it, the mystery is still unsolved with my bullshit car...

jhammons01

No no BP he is trying to figure out what that chocolate milk shake looking stuff is. he is not thinking of 'using' block weld. I was just suggesting that the stuff in the housing may be block weld.

Schmitty

iTrader: (11)

There is a spot in the housings that it had collected, it looks dried out but breaks up easily with a pick... How hard was yours? I guess the next step is to email the guy who I bought the car from and ask him if he recalls putting any of that stuff in. Also I made my first mistake in not oiling the housings well enough and I think alittle surface rust has formed over night... how do I remove the surface rust and make sure I didnt ruin my irons?