TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Ya, the only thing I am fearing is that I won't be able do longer drifts because I won't be able to go into the corners with enough speed. (because my rear tires wont grip enough) We will see, I will be bringing 2 extra rear sets of tires to the track with me. Right now I have really crappy/old/dry tires on the rear I can easily over power in first just accelerating. I think I will have to move to my older michelins (used to be on on 4, but the rears wore down into slicks. Even as slicks they still grip MUCH better than the ones I have on now) I still have them on the front. Then if that doesn't work I will have a mystery pair that came with my parts car. :P Going to be interesting. We will know if my theories are correct I guess. I know its easy to do low speed large donuts relativly easily(video above), but thats not the same as going sideways at 50-70 mph. :P haha

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

if its your first time, id recommend not to try it at 50-70mph unless you have a lot of experience grip-driving and know where the car's limits are. Old dry tires will also have a lot more of a sudden break-away than worn down good ones, making the car appear a lot snappier, so i'd recommend going with the michelin "slicks".

Also, the FC is set up from the factory for a little understeer, but bad DTSS bushings could easily affect that. After you install the DTSS eliminators, set the rear toe at 0.5* or so toe-in. This is a setting to make the FC understeer slightly, but more importantly, it will make the car more stable and predictable, plus the DTSS eliminators will get rid of the initial toe-out in the rear that many people dislike for drifting because it makes initializing the drift much more sudden.

Camber you should be ok with stock, but if you're getting an alignment anyway, crank the front up a little more than the rear as I said before. Cars typically have a bit more dynamic camber in the rear (meaning the camber increases with wheel travel) so that in a corner with body roll & weight transfer, the rear will have more grip than the front, resulting in understeer. You're just helping to balance this out a little bit more by adding more static negative camber in front, so that the ultimate camber (static + dynamic) is more closely matched front to rear. This is especially important if your springs are old and sagging, because for that amount of sag, the rear will gain more camber than the front will, so you'll effectively be starting with more rear 'static' camber than front.

You will be rolling around a lot, but thats what will happen on stock suspension. It wont keep you from drifting tho.

A good way to quickly change the balance of the car while you're out there is with tire pressures. a little bit lower pressure on one end of the car will give that end slightly more grip... but dont wander more than 4 or 5 psi from manufacturers specs, and it'll be harder to tell once you warm the tires up, so it may be better to do the following...

#2 good way to change the balance of the car while out there... anti-roll bars. If you dont mind even MORE body roll, you can disconnect one side of the anti-roll bar. disconnecting the front will make the car want to oversteer more, disconnecting the rear will be understeer, disconnecting both will be a little bit of oversteer (since the front is thicker than the rear), but not as much as just disconnecting the front.

beastyrx7

iTrader: (1)

mate
iv owned n i slide my Rx7 since January, and i didnt even bother with the stock suspension. front camber is a neccesaty and more sterring lock. go wit **** tyres on the rear so u can keep the revs high and keep the car sliding harder, with better tyrs on the rear all you will be doin is strainging the crap outta the car.
iv never meet a proper drifter slide on stock suspension, esspesially wen its saging and old, get at least a set of Tein Super Streets which are adjustable for comfort and can be stiffenend, have camber tops ect etc...
P.s. by the way i dnt come on this site caz im mostly on Ausrotary.com under "beasytyrx7(i think,cant rememebr it)"
cheers

beastyrx7

iTrader: (1)

you people are insane,
disconnecting the sway bars, and goin stock suspension.
sorry guys guess its a personal opinion, but ask any real/pro drifter, stock suspension aint the way to go. and pulling out ur sway bars is a massive no no. get thicker and stronger sway bars. u wanna make the car as stiff and stable as u can, makes it easier to get into a slide and hold the slide, as for the DTSS eliminators, i dnt have them and i dnt think i need them, if ur cars too snappy for you, then its not the car your ment to be sliding, if i want an easy car to slide get a Skyline, R31, or a Lorrel, or a Crassida, long body much easier to keep it hanging out there gives u more time to react to is allmighty slow snap of the longer wheel base...
ay guys
watch some Aussie drift or jappanese drift. then use can get an idea of suspension setups and styles...
cheers

sharingan 19

iTrader: (16)

If only we could get Skylines of any type or Lorrrel s, (whatever they are?) We're kinda limited over here

CyberPitz

I've noticed mine does this a lot, and was meaning to ask the forum. When just turning at 10-15 at max turn, it feels like my tires are grinding on something...I don't know how to explain the noise. But is this the same thing you guys are speaking of, and if so, get new shocks/struts/all things suspension?

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

I think I am just going to ignore beastyrx7. I can't read half the things he writes anyways. He just doesn't sound like he has a clue.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Read through page 1 and check what I fixed. Helped me a lot.

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

I agree with beasty that the stock suspension is not ideal by any means, and disconnecting the anti-roll bars is not what the pros do... but both will work in a pinch, and the impression that I got was that tweak wanted to do the most he could in the week or so before he went drifting... It'll probably be kinda difficult to get coilovers, new anti-roll bars, new diff etc in that time, since over-nighting parts from japan is oh-so-expensive and cliche

I dont see anything wrong with setting up the car suit your personal preference for drifting, whether its trying to reduce the speed with which the car swings around or otherwise... its his car.

As for the body roll and pitch... this will accentuate weight transfer... it'll look sloppy and you'll feel like you're being thrown around a lot, but you can really use it to your benefit. Flick the car (turn towards the outside, then turn in sharply), then begin to straighten the wheel and jab the brake pedal quickly, then get ready to catch the oversteer, prolonging it with the gas. You get the rear swinging, then unload the rear tires with weight xfer so that they loose grip... then its just maintaining it with steering angle and the go-pedal.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

awesome. Would that be considered a mini inertia drift? Instead of using the weight of your car from a previous drift, you just use the weight to start the first drift. I like it.

Yes you are correct, I am about just looking for some tips on stuff I could mod or fix in less then ... 3 days now. I wouldn't have time to do a full suspension nor do I have the resources at this time to buy the necessary components. I got what I thought were the best parts I could obtain and install in the short period of time, that will have the greatest upgrade to drifting control. So ya, there is a lot more I COULD do if I had the time and money, but that's not an option. So anyways... yes topeless you hit the nail on the head.

So anyways, do I need to get some camber adjusters next day air mail or what? I would like as much control in the rear as possible. If a 30$ camber adjust bolt is going to help a bit, I will buy it.

I cant afford a rear camber traction rod:
http://cgi.ebay.com/MAZDA-RX7-FC3S-R...QQcmdZViewItem

but I can afford a front camber screw kit.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RX-7-...spagenameZWDVW

Will the front help or do I really need to get front and rear?

Thanks
~Tweak

toplessFC3Sman

iTrader: (1)

I really cant see where the front camber screw kit would go to help you adjust the front camber... and for a whopping 99 cents, I wouldnt trust it. Your front stock suspension can be sort of be adjusted for camber by rotating the upper mounting since the shock tube is off-center in the square bracket. This is something that the alignment place could do for you.

Dont bother buying any more new parts for your car yet... you need the driver upgrade mod first. See how the car reacts stock and how that works with your driving style... that should give you an idea of what you need in terms of upgrades... whether you want the front suspension stiffer or softer than the rear, how much ultimate grip you want F vs R, roll etc.

Handling is just as much the balance between the front and rear of the car as it is the ultimate stiffness of the components, and keeping this in mind, you can always try to tweak the balance of the car at either end. Adjusting tire pressures is probably the easiest tho... just dont forget to return them to their stock pressures before going home or doing a lot of street driving. If you're going to buy anything else at this point, i'd invest in one of those cig-lighter plug in air pumps as long as it'll do up to about 50 or 60 psi, and an accurate pressure gauge. invaluable for the quick adjustment.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Ok, sounds good. I am not going to buy anything else till after the drift and maybe till after the winter. Then I will be able to get a great coil over set. I wish I would have known that springs at racing beat for the front and rear would have only cost $130. Would have stiffened and lowered the car. But it might have taken a few months for the springs to sit. My old stock springs might actually be lower anyways.

In the past I have found more comfort in doing the "power over" drift. I think it is called that, where basically just the sheer amount of power going to the rear slowly breaks the tires loose. I think I like it because at any time I can just let off the gas and grip is instantly restored. (well after the DTSS fish tail ends) I don't think I will be able to do a simple power over with only 184.5 whp at 6000 rpm. It wouldn't give me any room to continue spinning the tires. I think I will have to do a little bit of e-brake and clutch practice after I get the car all situated. I really need to tighten my e-brake though. I really don't like the e-brake drift. Seems kinda weak... maybe it's just me.

I am getting excited and the week just seems to be going slower and slower. Taking for ever for the weekend to come.

Well thanks for all of the help. I hope to have a successful drifting story/video in the next few weeks.

beastyrx7

iTrader: (1)

tweak
it seams you are the one with no idea of drifting, your the one asking for ideas and tips, and im basically giving them to you out of my own drifting experience.

sharingan 19
a Lorrel is a Nissan, looks a little bit like a Cefiero. Japanese four door rookie drift cars. starting off with a longer wheel base car is soo much easier than starting off with an FC or a AE86

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Lets see some of your drift videos. I would love to practice some of your techniques.

beastyrx7

iTrader: (1)

how am i supose to video myself drifting??
i dnt have any way that i could video myself.
my technique, very simle, approache the corner in the middle of the track. as ur approaching let the car over shoot a little as this happends yank the wheel towards the corner as u clutch kick at the top of second gear(70-80km/h), the car will dive into the corner and as you do let the steering wheel go were ever it likes(it will counter steer all the way automatically), then pretty much flaten the gas lots and lots, dnt let the revs drop otherwise the rear will grip and cause the front to go into an uncontrolled understeer(which is scary) keep the gas on from 1/2 throtal to full throtal in smooth intervals, dnt jam the gas on and off fast, just caz u to spin and loose it or grip n loose it. then as ur exiting the corner striahgten the wheel up, otherwise you will cop this MASSIVE SNAPING as you suffer in an FC. also exceting the corner dnt forget to flaten the gas, by then the car will hav lost a bit of speed.
thats my basic sliding style, i would use the hand break to enter at a faster speed but it dont work at all.(need a hydulic one, for instant lock up).
all corners need to be drifter differently, have fun mate...
its an awsome experience...
cheers
P.S. no hard feelings mate..

0verb00st

I had bad wheel hop up front when turning sharp too (chopped springs = suck). Coilovers fixed the problem.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

oooooo almost a 1 year resurrection hehe. Good one though.

Nick Huber

I have a truck on 35's and when I turn sharp or close to sharp, my left wheel will hop and slide in and out. And I can feel it in my steering wheel, and if I have my window open, I can hear the wheel sliding in and out. Once I park, I can go out in the front of my truck, and my left wheel is bowed inward just enough to tell that is a little bowed. How can I fix this? Why is this happening? How much will it cost? Thanks!!

Nick Huber

rx7racerca

iTrader: (1)

This is an eight-year dead thread resurrection - ? Regarding wheel-hop on a truck? (what model, mileage, suspension type, and year of truck? 4WD or AWD or 2WD?). It's not RX-7 related, but if your wheel is visibly out of alignment, it likely means worn suspension components - assuming this is when the wheel is aimed straight ahead. When the steering is turned, most vehicles will have some visible negative camber gain, it's inherent in the wheel castor geometry - and more castor angle equals more dynamic negative camber gain. Presumably you posted to this thread because of a wheel hop issue in turns - if the suspension and steering isn't worn, this would likely indicate excessive toe-in or toe out, causing the front wheels to fight each other in turns. On a pickup, this could also be because of a part-time 4WD system being used on pavement - a locked 4WD doesn't allow the front (or back, for that matter) wheels to turn at different speeds, needed especially at low speeds and in sharp turns because the outside wheels travel a much longer path. This shows up as wheel hop (and is brutal on the diffs and transmission). Part-time 4wd systems should not be used on dry pavement, because they rely on the tires slipping on a loose/slippery surface to allow each tire to travel different distances in a turn.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

No clue..
Never seen a SEC GEN RX7..TRUCK.

Rob XX 7

iTrader: (8)

car sounds like its very safe lol


annnnnnnnnnnnnnd I just realized its an old bumped thread