What can better cold start
10-15-04, 03:17 PM
#1
huh?
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What can better cold start
My 88 GXL, runs great... except in the morning when I'm late for school.
I turn the key and cranks but doesn't turn over. So I stop, and wait a few... do it again (repeat process) until it'll "cough" for a bit, then go back to not turning over then it'll start up. After that I just play with the thorttle a bit then it'll idle by itself.
What can I do to get a better cold start? Winter isn't even here yet! And the 7 has to stay outside uncovered.
Like I said though, the rest of the time the car is great. Starts right up during the day.
I turn the key and cranks but doesn't turn over. So I stop, and wait a few... do it again (repeat process) until it'll "cough" for a bit, then go back to not turning over then it'll start up. After that I just play with the thorttle a bit then it'll idle by itself.
What can I do to get a better cold start? Winter isn't even here yet! And the 7 has to stay outside uncovered.
Like I said though, the rest of the time the car is great. Starts right up during the day.
10-15-04, 03:28 PM
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Always Coca-Cola
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im havin the simular trouble... it takes longer to start up in the cold then it does when its a lil warmer outside... try givin it a lil gas as you turn you turning your key (with the foot on clutch of course)
10-15-04, 04:29 PM
#7
Engine, Not Motor
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It's not going to be the pulsation damper. And if it starts fine hot, it's not a fuel injector. Regulators just don't go bad all that often...
First step should be a FULL tuneup. All fluids, belts hoses, plugs, wires, TPS adjustment, etc. Now check your coolant sensor being the water pump, and intake air temperature sensor. There's also a thermoswitch on the drivers side bottom of the rad that controls the 3000 RPM startup, but it's not critical.
First step should be a FULL tuneup. All fluids, belts hoses, plugs, wires, TPS adjustment, etc. Now check your coolant sensor being the water pump, and intake air temperature sensor. There's also a thermoswitch on the drivers side bottom of the rad that controls the 3000 RPM startup, but it's not critical.
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10-15-04, 04:31 PM
#8
Turbo Swamp Thing
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Jeez my engine has 185,000 miles on it and has already been brought back from carbon lock death once and I've started my car no problem when its 20 degrees and I haven't started it for a month. I don't have thermowax or emissions and
it idles on it's own too.
Have you guys checked out the FSM?
http://www.cochran-racing.com/FSM/s4...SYSTEMS_NA.pdf
Go to page 11 and go through the stuff in the "hard start/no start" section
Then go to page 15 and look at the "Engine does not run smoothly at cold condition"
it idles on it's own too.
Have you guys checked out the FSM?
http://www.cochran-racing.com/FSM/s4...SYSTEMS_NA.pdf
Go to page 11 and go through the stuff in the "hard start/no start" section
Then go to page 15 and look at the "Engine does not run smoothly at cold condition"
10-16-04, 01:45 PM
#10
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Mine did this when the coolant seals were blown. Didnt smoke at all either. Just wouldnt start in the morning. Then it finally started smoking one day and I rebuilt it and it seems to start up fine now.
10-16-04, 03:45 PM
#11
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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Mine started last winter with the cold start removed from the TB when it was -20C (******* cold) and -30C when the cold start in tact, so I don't think you should have to resort to a block heater.
10-16-04, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Radial GT
ATF treatment, a winter must. I do mine once a year, fun to let it sit for a couple days, and invite a bunch of your friends over 
FIRE FIRE FIRE!! Oh wait, that's the next door guys mazda.
FIRE FIRE FIRE!! Oh wait, that's the next door guys mazda.
M
10-17-04, 10:57 AM
#14
Engine, Not Motor
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Originally Posted by Radial GT
ATF treatment, a winter must. I do mine once a year, fun to let it sit for a couple days, and invite a bunch of your friends over
FIRE FIRE FIRE!! Oh wait, that's the next door guys mazda.
FIRE FIRE FIRE!! Oh wait, that's the next door guys mazda.
10-18-04, 11:31 AM
#15
That is what I meant if it starts bad after sitting over night (as he stated) yet runs fine after warming up probably fuel injector or pressure regulator.
agreed ATF is not the ticket though it works for starting a flooded car.
I use Sea Foam Instead of ATF/water for the ATF/Water treatment. That actually works and is proven to do so.
Also run a can through the gas tank and put half a can in the oil fill tube 200-300 miles before an oil change.
agreed ATF is not the ticket though it works for starting a flooded car.
I use Sea Foam Instead of ATF/water for the ATF/Water treatment. That actually works and is proven to do so.
Also run a can through the gas tank and put half a can in the oil fill tube 200-300 miles before an oil change.
10-18-04, 12:37 PM
#16
Buy my car......
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I had the same problem.
Do the injectors themselves leak, or the injector O-Rings? We have side feed injectors right? I have new injector O-rings in any case. How much are new OEM injectors? Or cheap knock off's?
Do the injectors themselves leak, or the injector O-Rings? We have side feed injectors right? I have new injector O-rings in any case. How much are new OEM injectors? Or cheap knock off's?
10-18-04, 02:34 PM
#17
88 AE
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Check your coolant temp sensor. Its right below where the alternator bolts to the filler neck. That thing caused me a lot of cold weather headaches until I spotted that the wiring was bad on it.
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