Ok I have a few extra dollars to drop into my 88 turbo 2 for performance wise so my question is do I get a wideband or a walbro fuel pump and a fuel cut defender to stop fuel cut at 8.6 pounds?

 

of those choices...wideband.

 

Ok ya pretty much i already have full exhaust turbo timer and a Garrett turbo don't have the money for a front mount and want to upgrade the fuel pump befor I do the injectors but hate the factory fuel cut limiter

 

The Rtek chip has made the fuel cut defenser obsolete because it is about the same price but has better features and allows you to use the stock boost gauge.
Rtek7 ECU Upgrade Detailed Information

I recommend saving your money so that you can install an Rtek chip, upgraded fuel pump, and Rtek-friendly fuel injectors all at the same time.

IMO the wideband would be a waste of money. The turbo timer is also a waste of money unless you downgraded to a dry-bearing turbo, in which case the turbo timer is not a bad idea.

 

Thanks I think ill order one from them and the turbo timer came with the car

 

Sell it on E-bay and use the money to buy something useful. If your turbo has a wet bearing, then all the turbo timer does for you is create another potential point of failure and make your car easier to steal.

 

Lol very true I ordered a ecu upgrade from them today now time to pull my ecu out and mail it to them and ordering injectors next any suggestions what ones or where to go I want new 550 for the primary's and 720 for the secondary's

 

I just installed Rtek 1.8 with 4/ RC 750's. they work for me so I would suggest RC.

Part number for the low impedance 750:

PL4-750D

 

What use is a wideband if you aren't tuning?

 

How do u like it and did u notice any diff? And true bout the wideband but its nice to know if ur running lean to fix the problem befor u cause damage to the motor

 

It's a great diagnostic tool.

 

If you don't have some sort of fuel tuner, have fun with the fuel cut defencer when you blow your engine.

Get the wide band. Safety first.

 

yes, but...
If stock, all you're learning is the stock ratios. Then you don't do anything else. I suppose you can watch your driving habits and adjust your foot for best ratios (mileage). Then again a vac/boost gauge is good for that too.

 

I'm not stock it has a full 3 inch exhaust turbo back a Garrett a/r 42 turbo

 

Not really. The car does not have the stock configuration, the engine is not new, the sensors are not new, and there are many other errors involved such as reversions, heat, and the air pump.

The gas pedal does not adjust the ratio, so this will not work either.

Yes, the engine will most likely blow up if he installs a FCD prior to installing the fuel system upgrades. The Rtek chip will control the larger fuel injectors and negate the need for a FCD or aftermarket boost gauge.

O2 sensors are for economy, not safety. If you really believe in "safety first", then you would have a professional tune the engine rather than screwing with it yourself. The mere act of an ignorant novice messing with the AFR is in itself unsafe.

Yes, but you are using the stock ECU with no provision to adjust the AFR ratio.

If this were my car, I would do the following:
- Buy a new upper intake manifold gasket. The manifold needs to be removed to get to the primary fuel injectors, and attempting to reuse the old gasket or trying to make a ghetto gasket is a very common way to get a very annoying vacuum leak.
- Buy a Walbro 255LPH, Bosch 044, or similar fuel pump.
Walbro Fuel Pump
Bosch 044 Fuel Pump
- Send all four stock 550 injectors out to get cleaned, "rebuilt", and flow tested. When they come back I would use the best matched ones for the primaries and I would either sell the other two or keep them as spares.
Injector Cleaning
WitchHunter Performance - Injector Cleaning & Flow Testing Services
- Buy two 720cc/min fuel injectors. RC Engineering, Denso, and Siemens are good. Venom injectors suck. Make sure that you get the correct type for your car.
Rotary Resurrection - Fuel Injectors
- Convert to a parallel fuel system with an Aeromotive or SX fuel pressure regulator. This is a little pricey, but I think it is worth it in the long run, especially considering that you can eliminate the expensive and disaster-prone OEM pulsation damper. The necessary parts are shown in the below picture, but you would also want to get a fuel pressure gauge that you can temporarily attach to the fuel pressure regulator to set it as desired.

 

Well I just ordered the rtek and a set of 550 and a set of 720 injectors pulling the turbo off to port the waste gate cause I do have turbo creep in 3 and 4 gear just got in my stainless steal brake lines and probably ordering a stainless steal clutch line. Next I will order a fuel pump a regulator and wideband together