What alternator is bigger and better than the FD and compatible with our cars
01-30-08, 01:23 AM
#1
1.3L is not that small
Thread Starter
What alternator is bigger and better than the FD and compatible with our cars
just like the title says what is the next upgrade in alternator for our cars past the famous FD alt upgrade? and also if you run a fd alt and do not have problems, what all exactly are you running
thanks
stan
thanks
stan
01-30-08, 04:06 PM
#7
Just do what I did. Take it to a REPUTABLE alternator shop and have them do a custom alternator for you built from your original one. I took my s4 alternator to one and they built me a 100 amp, plug and play alternator so I wouldn't have to deal with the bs of the pulley and wiring.
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01-30-08, 08:23 PM
#12
1.3L is not that small
Thread Starter
i just wanted a good alternator upgrade, im not cheaping out and between a black magic 150 and maybe in the future some stereo stuff i wanted a very reliable charging system. the alternator on the car now took a crap right after the efan installation
01-30-08, 08:24 PM
#13
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Fd Alternator All The Way
FOR my seven i have a efan and an amp when i put the fd alternator on i had 14.8 at idle when my lights and my efan on it goes down to 14.5 it is beutifull
01-30-08, 09:03 PM
#14
brap-brap-brap
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the fd alternator is capable of putting out more, but current draw is exactly that, a draw. because its capable of doing so does not mean that it will put out full current all the time, unless there is an electrical load that calls for it.
so yes, it does produce more power
but no, it will not cause more problems down the road.
so yes, it does produce more power
but no, it will not cause more problems down the road.
01-31-08, 08:48 AM
#16
Engine, Not Motor
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If you want a direct bolt on, take an FC alternator to the local alternator shop and have them rewind it. A friend just did this at one of our local shops and they wound it for 150A. The cost was under $75.
01-31-08, 09:15 AM
#17
What prevents the alternators with the higher than stock amperage from creating too much voltage. As a previous poster said, his reads 14.8 volts under draw(while certain components switched on). How close is this amount to being one which will do damage to the electrical components. What makes an alternator with 150 amps better than one which creates 125.
01-31-08, 09:20 AM
#18
Engine, Not Motor
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As a previous poster said, his reads 14.8 volts under draw(while certain components switched on). How close is this amount to being one which will do damage to the electrical components. What makes an alternator with 150 amps better than one which creates 125.
More current capacity gives you the ability to run more stuff. Lower amperage alternators will start to drop voltage if you pull too much current while a higher capacity alternator will not.
If someone is seeing 14.8V output from their alternator, something is wrong with the voltage regulator and it must be fixed immediately. Just around 14V is ideal.
01-31-08, 12:01 PM
#20
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
the modofied alternators i sell are usally double the amperage rating they were before the mods..
the stator gets re-worked, diodes get swapped out, an hd voltage regulator is installed along with new bearings..
end result is a direct bolt in unit that pereforms as it should..
cost is between $200.00 and $300.00 depending on what model alt you choose, polished housing, etc.. there is never a core charge, it is cheaper if you send in a core to have built tho...
i have the FD and cosmo alternators with a v belt pulley on them too
the stator gets re-worked, diodes get swapped out, an hd voltage regulator is installed along with new bearings..
end result is a direct bolt in unit that pereforms as it should..
cost is between $200.00 and $300.00 depending on what model alt you choose, polished housing, etc.. there is never a core charge, it is cheaper if you send in a core to have built tho...
i have the FD and cosmo alternators with a v belt pulley on them too
01-31-08, 12:02 PM
#21
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
01-31-08, 12:18 PM
#22
I've got an FC vert with a JDM swap, I've got an aftermarket stereo and 2 amps pushing a total of 8 speakers (when I turn the headrest speakers on), once I get a custom sub enclosure built I'll add a 3rd amp to power that. I've got one aftermarket electronic gauge will be adding more down the road. Without adding in the 3rd amp into the equation, at night with lights on, fan blowing (whether heat or a/c) and the stereo on my factory volt meter will sit around 12. So I definitely need to upgrade my alternator.
01-31-08, 12:21 PM
#23
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
I've got an FC vert with a JDM swap, I've got an aftermarket stereo and 2 amps pushing a total of 8 speakers (when I turn the headrest speakers on), once I get a custom sub enclosure built I'll add a 3rd amp to power that. I've got one aftermarket electronic gauge will be adding more down the road. Without adding in the 3rd amp into the equation, at night with lights on, fan blowing (whether heat or a/c) and the stereo on my factory volt meter will sit around 12. So I definitely need to upgrade my alternator.
this is a perfect example of when you need an upgrade.. also most electronics are rated at 16 volts so they can get the best stats, so the closer you can get to 16 volts the better your electronics will work!
jeff, you have a pm
01-31-08, 12:51 PM
#24
I've got an FC vert with a JDM swap, I've got an aftermarket stereo and 2 amps pushing a total of 8 speakers (when I turn the headrest speakers on), once I get a custom sub enclosure built I'll add a 3rd amp to power that. I've got one aftermarket electronic gauge will be adding more down the road. Without adding in the 3rd amp into the equation, at night with lights on, fan blowing (whether heat or a/c) and the stereo on my factory volt meter will sit around 12. So I definitely need to upgrade my alternator.
