just like the title says what is the next upgrade in alternator for our cars past the famous FD alt upgrade? and also if you run a fd alt and do not have problems, what all exactly are you running

thanks
stan

 

gm 130 amp..i think

 

Dont want to thread steal. But do FC alternators really suck? If so maybe ill get a new one also. haha

 

People recommend the FD alternator if you (for example) have a stereo-system with an amp., or if you're running an E-fan... I have the FD alternator on one of my FC's, and it's nothing too special 'in and of' itself.

 

Er, no...

 

The nice thing about the FD Alternator is that it is a direct plugin to the S5 harness.....S4 requires a little bit of wiring.

GG

 

Just do what I did. Take it to a REPUTABLE alternator shop and have them do a custom alternator for you built from your original one. I took my s4 alternator to one and they built me a 100 amp, plug and play alternator so I wouldn't have to deal with the bs of the pulley and wiring.

 

How much did it cost to get your alternator rebuilt with upgraded windings?

 

care to elaborate on that NZConvertible ? Are you referencing the more power statement or the more troubles down the road ?

 

Nothing is going to be harmed if you install an alternator with a higher current capacity. The alternator only produces as much power as your accessories are drawing.

 

why do you need so much power and just how big are you looking for?

 

i just wanted a good alternator upgrade, im not cheaping out and between a black magic 150 and maybe in the future some stereo stuff i wanted a very reliable charging system. the alternator on the car now took a crap right after the efan installation

 

FOR my seven i have a efan and an amp when i put the fd alternator on i had 14.8 at idle when my lights and my efan on it goes down to 14.5 it is beutifull

 

the fd alternator is capable of putting out more, but current draw is exactly that, a draw. because its capable of doing so does not mean that it will put out full current all the time, unless there is an electrical load that calls for it.

so yes, it does produce more power
but no, it will not cause more problems down the road.

 

Basically what they said. The extra capacity does not cause any problems. The comment was just a silly one...

 

There are no "direct" bolt on units. Even the FD alternator requires a pulley and wiring change to make it work.

If you want a direct bolt on, take an FC alternator to the local alternator shop and have them rewind it. A friend just did this at one of our local shops and they wound it for 150A. The cost was under $75.

 

What prevents the alternators with the higher than stock amperage from creating too much voltage. As a previous poster said, his reads 14.8 volts under draw(while certain components switched on). How close is this amount to being one which will do damage to the electrical components. What makes an alternator with 150 amps better than one which creates 125.

 

Basic principles of physics...

A 150A alternator can supply up to 150A of current, while a 125A alternator can supply up to 125A worth of current.

More current capacity gives you the ability to run more stuff. Lower amperage alternators will start to drop voltage if you pull too much current while a higher capacity alternator will not.

If someone is seeing 14.8V output from their alternator, something is wrong with the voltage regulator and it must be fixed immediately. Just around 14V is ideal.

 

but, isnt the voltage regulator internal with a stock alternator? atleast in a Series 4

 

the modofied alternators i sell are usally double the amperage rating they were before the mods..

the stator gets re-worked, diodes get swapped out, an hd voltage regulator is installed along with new bearings..
end result is a direct bolt in unit that pereforms as it should..

cost is between $200.00 and $300.00 depending on what model alt you choose, polished housing, etc.. there is never a core charge, it is cheaper if you send in a core to have built tho...

i have the FD and cosmo alternators with a v belt pulley on them too

 

its internal on all alternators 81 on up.. but there is a large selecion of aftermarket high performance oones available..

 

I've got an FC vert with a JDM swap, I've got an aftermarket stereo and 2 amps pushing a total of 8 speakers (when I turn the headrest speakers on), once I get a custom sub enclosure built I'll add a 3rd amp to power that. I've got one aftermarket electronic gauge will be adding more down the road. Without adding in the 3rd amp into the equation, at night with lights on, fan blowing (whether heat or a/c) and the stereo on my factory volt meter will sit around 12. So I definitely need to upgrade my alternator.

 

good god! you definatly need an upgrade!

this is a perfect example of when you need an upgrade.. also most electronics are rated at 16 volts so they can get the best stats, so the closer you can get to 16 volts the better your electronics will work!


jeff, you have a pm

 

Adding caps to each amp would help stabilize the power when the e-fan goes on. I added two to mine and it helped. Like you I have a 7 speaker system and 3 amps. Well, one amp is a 4 channel infinity amp. So it is like three amps. The caps really helped.

 

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