Well it was pretty sweet.
A bunch of gnarly WRX's and FC's were there.

The best one was my friends S4 TII. He did 450rwhp

Unfortunately one of his runs went bad for an unknown reason and he blew the rear rotor! 65/0/0 compression back there.

I then dyno'd mine tyo get a base map for me to look at to tune.
I had installed my aeromotive FPR the night before and had no clue where to set my fuel pressure.
This is a stock rebuilt S5 turbo and manifolds on S4 rotors and intake plates. S5 housings. NO boost control at all and no twin scroll thing.

At a static 50psi I pulled 180-182hp and 180-182tq rear wheel on my first run.
This was at around 8-9psi

The dyno didn't have a good fan so I started to heat soak.

I also started to lean out around 6k-6500k rpm so I think the stock injectors are not cutting it up there. It also got a little lean right at the secondary injector turn on.

We then tried to up the fuel pressure to try and compensate for the lean areas.
It kept showing lean areas around the secondaries so I would shut it down.

I ran in the 10 AFR's when I upp'd the pressure to 60psi under boost but I would always start leaning out at the injector turn on's.

The rest of my runs I kept shutting down due to that lean spot.
I did manage to pull 150hp and 165tq by 4500 rpm though which is pretty nice.

Not too shabby for what I had. Once I get the dyno shop to email me my graph's I'll start posting them up.

 

OK here they are from Dyno day for me.
The best run was the first because I went all the way to 6500rpm-ish.
The rest I kept upping fuel and shutting down around 4500rpm.

The AFR levels were taken from the exhaust pipe so that explains why their higher than normal.

Look at them and then help me figure out WTF happened and why I haven't blown my motor yet.


First run on Aeromotive FPR set at 50psi static rate


Static rate upped 5-10psi rail pressure


Rate upped again to around 60-65psi I think


Rate upped to around 70psi if I remember right. I think it is high because I didn't mash the petal to WOT but I can't remember for sure.


Again around 70psi OR possibly back down to 55-65. Can't remember what I did.


Last run I did set at 60psi static(set it for daily driving as of now)

Boost reached around 5-7psi for most of these runs due to boost creep.
Max boost attained was probably on the first run and was in the range of 8-9psi.

I assume heat soak started to play a factor quickly since the dyno fan was designed for FMIC styles while the TMIC got no air flow.

 

WTF is the deal with those graphs? the lines loop around and stuff.... WTF??? I didn't know engine speed could drop, and suddenly make more power than it did before.... lol.

 

looks like the DYNO shop had a guy spin around for 10 seconds and draw some lines on a sheet of paper :P

 

You're hittin some pretty lean spots around 3.5-4k there for turbo, hmm.

 

those are some "interesting" lines you have there....

 

Hahaha. BS!

 

Man, I think a 3 year old can draw straighter than that!


-Ted

 

what the ****, someone was playin in paint

 

LOL... that just made my day. WTF happened mate

I think this thread deserves to be in the lounge... none the less, damn funny

 

Wow if thats real, than thats so sad.

 

Uh yes it is real. I know it is VERY sad.

The only modification I have that messes with injector duty would be the Rtek 1.5 ECU chip.
Some times I get A HUGE bucking hesitation right at the injector switch.

BTW the ECU suuposedly makes the injectors turn on at 3500 RPM instead of 3800 rpm.
I've also heard that there could be a lag/delay in what the RPM vs AFR/Power is.

This was done on a Dynojet.

 

Oh yeah. The lines going backwards are from me shutting down before he hit the stop record button.
Eveer wonder what it looks like to see your DYno sheet with deceleration? That's it.

 

I would question the calibration of their WB02... or even if their sensor is crapped out... those are insane!

 

Does your car operate in a strange manner during the dyno runs and when driven on the road? If not, with results like that one has to seriously question the operation of the dyno. I'm by no means a dyno expert, but it seems like the really wild numbers like the 18:1 AFR are the wide band/dyno getting messed up by something happening with your vehicle that causes the sensors to read wider swings than are actually occuring. What ever is happening, it's causing the sensor readings to go widly out of the range which they can operate. (perhaps due to poor resolution or inability to handle rapid changes) Even during the more reasonable I'd have throught that the detonation would be audible when you get to 15:1 AFRs. Perhaps someone could comment on that aspect?

 

Well.others dynoed with their own widebands and Haltechs and were ok.

These AFR readings are taking from the exhaust pipe not turbo/DP.
So I think thenumbers may be off a few points since it's so much further down.

 

I plan to get some 720's for the secondaries and then upgrade to the Rtek 1.7

Then I will get an SAFC once I have enough money for that.

 

I wonder about that. Don't dyno shops stick a 02 sensor up the tail pipe as a normal procedure??????

I first put my wideband in the original 02 sensor location for over a year. Then I relocated it to just prior to the left rear muffler and didn't notice squat in the difference in 02 readings.

 

It wont make a difference provided there is no catalytic converters. I watched a video about all this with some tuners and wideband testers, they said it will generally be the same as long as there is no cat in between. They also said that the best location isnt always where the stock O2 sensor is, they said it is best to put it farther down the exhaust line.

 

Well that shoots my theory down! lol... oh well.

 

DynoJet offers a "wideband" that is not based on the Bosch LSM / LSU or NTK wide-band sensors - well, at least not obviously.

http://www.dynojet.com/automotive_dy...ssories.php#WB

I think exhaust is "pumped" into the main unit then analyzed.
The main unit uses a length of flex copper tubing that is shoved up the exhaust tailpipe.

I've found this unit almost useless when trying to dyno our cars.
For some reason, the AFR's are wildly fluctuating - up to 2.0 AFR's on back-to-back runs!
One run it's down to low 11's - the next run its over 13.0!


-Ted

 

Well...there is something seriously wrong with your setup. My s4 turbo engine, with stock everything...no emissions, and 2 1/2 inch exhaust from the turbo back...made 194 hp and 176 tq on the dyno...that was at 6 psi of boost. I just upgraded to s5 turbo and am running 11 lbs of boost now, still on stock 550's...and still running a stoich mixture. Dyno is pending this summer. I dont care IF the motor dies...im building an s5 block up right now for it. MUHAHAHAH


check your setup man. If you are at a lower elevation than me and are making less than me, tahts a problem. Im in calgary AB canada.

 

those hp graphs are seriously scary. if can you feel the fluctiaions during hard acceleration? with a graph that rough, I would expect some head-rockin in the mid to upper RPMs from the power fluctuations.

I have NEVER seen a hp graph look like that...and the o2 graphs are...special...

 

thats some pretty fucked up **** dude.

don't beat on the car or you'll be rebuilding that rebuild real quick. you are running LEAN. a range of 500-1000 RPMs near 10:1 AFR does NOT mean you are running in the 10s. Richen up the mixture if you can. fuel pressure is not enough to make up for a lean condition that bad.

 

OK well Reted's post helps me a bit. I find it hard to believe those numbers as well since I should have blown my motor by now with those numbers. I've been boosting to 5 psi daily for the last few months like this.

I am in Phoenix AZ. It's pretty close to sea level here.
I got my car checked with a wideband a few months ago at 50psi and I was running 12's under boost and it would start to rise after 5500-6500rpm into scary numbers.
It did do a jump at the injector turn on to some high AFR's as well.

My car is NO WHERE NEAR perfect. It has an idle vacuum of 8-11hg and had a compression test in the 80's a few months ago(16-800 miles into rebuild). I also have high impedance (stock harness) oprimaries and low impedance(added resistors) secondaries in this.

I usually have a really bad buck right at the injector switch for the first few boost related switches. After 2-3 it will not hesitate as bad if at all. I'll have to check the voltages/resistance for my secondaries. The harness was in bad shape when I got it.

I'd also have to say that 180 rwhp isn't too shabby for a car with absolutely no boost control. It only reached about 8-9 psi on this run. If given the right situation I can boost creep to 10-11psi in 3rd and 11+ in 4th/5th BUT I like having a running car so I let off before it creeps bad.