Anything I should know before I get them and begin?

Ive only owned FB/SA's all my life this is my first FC.. Just wanted to know If I need anything for this car. since its got 4 piston calipers?

 

Only that it's probably the easiest brake pad change ever.. The only tricky part is retracting the pistons.. Once the pistons are retracted, it's as simple as pulling a retaining clip, two pins, and out the pads come.

The rears require a tool, any autoparts store has it, to retract the pistons.. It's round, with tiny pins sticking out, and a 3/8" square to turn it with a rachet.. You turn the piston to get it to retract.

PaulC

 

Cool, thats what I was getting to I figured there might be a special tool.... Just thought id ask first..

Any other words of wisdom?

 

Use channel locks (pliers) to squeeze the front brake pads and force the pistons back into the calipers (so you can change out the pads.) You might pick up a brake hardware kit from the dealer (basically a bunch of metal shims) to go with the pads. The shims will help prevent brake squeal (throwing some anti-squeal in for good measure wouldn't hurt) and keep things snug in there.

What kind of pads are you going to use?

 

C-clamps work much better than channel-lok pliars, and they both pail in comparison to a Brake Caliper retractor clamp (not the specific one for the rear).

 

I got several tools like that (C clamp). I just wanted to make sure, i believe in having proper tools before I begun.

I havent the need for any special brakes on an all stock vert. It will probally remain stock, too heavy of a car w/o SERIOUS MODS! Thanks again

 

Are you going to turn the rotors? If not, the front calipers can just stay on the car.

 

I dont think I need to turn them, no serious grooves. But probally be a good idea... The brakes are getting a little squeaky, not real loud just a little eeeecckkk. So I dunno if its digging into the rotors or not?

 

I check for grooves with my fingernail. I don't like ******* with the screws that hold the rotor on unless I have to.

If the front rotors are alright, it takes like 5 minutes to swap front pads on both sides. Pull the clips, the pins, pry the piston in with a prybar against the old pads and put the new ones in. The back takes me about 10 cause my retractor tool sucks

 

Ok monday will be the day, i got my kid all this weekend, and I cant do **** with him here. He likes to screw with **** in the garage...

BTW: Love the Avatar

 

Are brake pads from Advance any good?

 

Dunno. A lot of 7 owners swear by Hawk HPS pads. I'm waiting for a set on special order to arrive. You'll stop on a dime. The trade off is that they're ferro carbon pads, and with all that metal-on-metal they shriek a lot. Not that I won't be trying to fight it tooth and nail. I like my 7 relatively quiet, not sounding like a transit bus every time I pull up to a stop sign.