I thought I could get away with a month or 2 but it looks like the engine may be about to go.
I had the check engine light on/off for about a month or 2 and it would go off after shutting off and restarting. NOT THIS MORNING! It stayed on and has not gone off. The code is for the OMP so I guess its farewell to this engine.
I'm hitting fuel cut if I press the accelerator too much, which pisses me off!
I guess after almost 140k miles, really hard miles I shouldnt complain. Besides, it may end up with a turbo!! Its just bad timing...
well just thought i'd post the passing of my FC(at least temporarilly)
later

 

Bum...bum.....ba-bum......bum...bum....bada-bum

Sad news.

 

But on a brighter note, if you decide to trash it and get another one I will most definately take some parts off it. Or if ya get sick and can't handle it, or even go bankrupt. Just remember there is no rx-7 that can't be good for something.

 

you kept driving the car with a code for the OMP ??? you're hitting fuel cut cuase the engine is telling you to off the gas!! I car with a failed OMP won't last any time.

all you had to do was use 2 cyle oil in the gas tank the first time the light poped up and it would still be running.

 

get you a new computer for the car and a used oil meter pump
and your car will run again if not them atleast run premix
im asuming you car is 89+ right because normaly 88- down have mechanical omp and very rrarely go bad you got questions ive got answers . trust me on this one

i also need to know how long have you been running the car like that???
cause you might of done the dammage already

 

he doesn't need an ecu, just the pump. but if it's been failing for 2 months the engine might be toast by now.

 

i beg to differ on not needing the computer i bet you if he get the pump without the computer it will still do the same thing
when th oil meter pupm goes out if its the electrical one it burns the circuit board

but also you have to make sure you put the pump on first then the computer or you will burn it



though i agree 2 months without omp or premix = dead engine soon

 

Yeah, I figured as much(engine damage). It is a 90 GTU, but I had plans for a new engine or a rebuild anyways. It just seems like extremely bad timing!!! I already knew the omp was a problem and how much mazda wants for a new one.
The "good" thing about it is that it is still running. I probably drive it down to the shop and see how much $$$ i gotta drop on it. but like I said, bad timing...wanted to get the body done(funny, gotta bumper on the way) and was really hoping to make it to spring.
Thanx for the advise...although it may very well be a mute point by now since i've probably already killed it.

 

Don't drive it til you get some premix, maybe it's not too late. It may last til spring if the damage is not too bad.

 

Great... another goober kills an S5 FC. They're getting rarer and rarer every day, folks... wanna know why?

2FAST7S -->

Brandon

 

No offense, but how retarded do you have to be to keep driving hte car even if you know you are doing damage to it....

 

If you don't have piles of cash laying around, STOP DRIVING THE CAR!

If you indeed have a bad OMP, to more you drive it, the more damage you're doing to the motor and the more $$$$$ it's going to cost you to get it rebuilt. A normal reuild kit is only the apex seals, side seals & gaskets. If you trash your housings, the bill is going to be a lot more.

 

No it doesnt. Ive had 2 electric OMP's fail on me in 2 S5 n/a's(89 GTU and 90 GTU), and neither fried the ECU.

Use premix until you get it fixed, if the engine still idles, its not dead yet.

 

btw, mazdaspeed is right. If your OMP crap to bed, your car will be in limp mode. Mazda have all their stuff in some fail safe mode....

 

Again, the car idles and runs...(i am not beating up on it)
It does seem to be in limp home mode...
Yeah, this goober is not stupid enough to hang onto an engine that cannot pass inspection, is way too slow, and already has a ton of miles on it. You ask why i kept driving it? I am replacing the engine. Dont know about the rebuild since i'd still need a turbo(as opposed to buying a turbo engine from the start).
Goober! Thats funny!!! down south? are you? haha...

 

wont even say what im thinkin, but yea if you run premix you could probably last until spring, a ton of miles, 140k is a ton of miles????? thats a new one to me, the FC im drivin now has 174k on the engine, still running perfectly. premix will be the best bet if you want to last until spring, or a used or new OMP.

 

Wtf is he talking about? My car has 160K on it. I am running around the same hp as I did when I bought it with 76K. Whats the deal with on its way going? More like you are putting it to death because you dont know how to take care of a car. But then, more parts car available...

 

WTH is an engine inspection?
It's only slow because you don't treat it correctly. 140K is not a ton of miles especially on an NA, they are good for 200K usually...provided the owner is not a goober. How are your maintenance records?

 

Can't pass what inspection? Visual? You're just not crafty enough. Sniffer? Uh, when was the last time you changed the spark plugs? And I'd hope you're nearing the 200k mark before you start talking about "a ton of miles"... I PERSONALLY know a fellow who has a properly maintained engine with over 236k that STILL puts 122 to the wheels, in a stock configuration...

I'll back off a bit if you really are planning on replacing the engine, and not just parting the car or junking it.. but still - you should have maintained the car.

And yeah, I'm down south, but the only roughly-equivalent term I've ever heard Noo Yawkah's use is "m*th*rf*ck*r", and that's a little strong...

Brandon

 

that may have been but i got 2 computer here from 2 difrent cars and are both blow i could take pics to show you if ya like


by the way both of my cars where 89 and gxl

 

My $0.02...

I run premix in ANY 89-91 FC I drive. Its cheap insurance.

The OMP can go bad and not even set off an error code or limp mode at all, and the engine kill itself. I can confirm what prmazda said about the computer...I just sold some people with a 91 vert an OMP and the code was still present until they replaced the ecu as well, then it ran well. This may not be the case with ALL such situations, but it does happen.

If it were me, Id buy a used OMP(I have one available for $175) and see if it clears the code. IF not, then you need an ecu too, which I can hook u up with. Then, you can drive the car around a while longer until its a better time. Id highly recommend premix from now on, but most definitely right now. Even if you drive the car easy, the apex seals are wearing down with NO LUBRICATION. IF you dunp in premix right now and just leave it in limp mode(f you cant afford to fix it yet), it'll not to any further damage to the engine. By all means so NOT keep driving it as is. Either fix it, park it, or run some premix so the engine wont wear itself to death. IM not ragging on you, Im just trying to help.

Oh, and if you keep driving a poor engine until it does throw an apex or 3, you run the risk of killing a rotor and housing when it finally does die. IF you really ahve intentions to build this engine, save it now for the rebuild, dont wait until it dies, or you'll be paying $300 for a rotor and housing to replace the one the apex seals ate.

 

You guys get pissy with the miles thing...I do not have a cat on the car, havent had one for years and quite frankly is a pain in the ***! I looked at the options and so far mazdatrix's cat(that works with headers) is the cheapest one i have found. At over 400$ is just more than I would like to pay not even being sure the rest of the emissions system is working.
Aside from the religious oil changes at or before the 3k miles, i have folders with every reciept for repair/performance work done on the car in the 6+ years i've owned it. Never have had major engine work needed aside from a tranny rebuild about 2 years ago(sheared off 1st launching hard)
NO, this is not going to be anybody's parts car!!!!!! As stated before, i am replacing the engine if not rebuilding...it really depends on which one is more convenient/economical. I will be either driving or towing the car out to the shop on sat, so rest assured some work is going to be done to it. I just wish it had lasted till the weather gets a bit warmer since i really didnt want to drive my FD just yet.
Thanx for the advise, i guess by the weekend i should have decided what to do as far as premix or towing(leaning towards towing)
The goal is a 250 hp FC thats emissions legal and a reliable daily driver.
(reliable being the key word)

 

My point was the OMP doesnt take out the ECU normally. It can if theres a short in the electronic part of the OMP, but that is not how it always happens.

Are you sure its the OMP circuit thats fried in those ECU's?

 

Any cat will work. It's just a question of how long it'll last. rx7_ragtop has been using a 'non-rotary' cat for quite some time.

 

Exactly! How long will it last? I'd rather save my money and do what i'm doing at the end, slap a bonez cat in there($200) that i know will last and give the car a new hasle free lease on life along with a much needed bump in power!

On a side note, I did park it! I'm driving the familymobile...damn i miss my car! and its only been 2 days. :