Well, 186 miles on the rebuild... Overheated and blew my coolant seals... :( (lol)
10-17-05, 02:10 PM
#27
Originally Posted by SureShot
It's got to be the turbo's coolant circuit.
You removed the fast idle thermo-wax circuit, didn't you?
I hope the "boost test" did no harm.
You removed the fast idle thermo-wax circuit, didn't you?
I hope the "boost test" did no harm.
And yes, although I haven't removed the T-wax, I have the coolant re-routed from the rear-iron into the WP.
haha, "boost test"... What can I say? We all have our breakin'g point... Mine just happened to be at 180 miles... lol.
I'll die of temptation as soon as this car's back on the road, with at least 1000 miles to go before 15psi and the insanity that will ensue...
10-17-05, 02:42 PM
#28
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
When You Get It Apart, Closely Examine The Grooves The Sealing Orings Lay In. Look For Even The Smallest Crack B/t Where The Oring Lays And The Water Passage.
I Doubt Very Much Boosting The Engine Caused The Water Orings To Leak.
I Doubt Very Much Boosting The Engine Caused The Water Orings To Leak.
10-17-05, 03:35 PM
#29
Originally Posted by HAILERS
When You Get It Apart, Closely Examine The Grooves The Sealing Orings Lay In. Look For Even The Smallest Crack B/t Where The Oring Lays And The Water Passage.
I Doubt Very Much Boosting The Engine Caused The Water Orings To Leak.
I Doubt Very Much Boosting The Engine Caused The Water Orings To Leak.
Sureshot was referring to a needless commment I made about boosting a little bit, on my non-broken in motor.
10-17-05, 04:55 PM
#31
Originally Posted by slpin
removing turbo takes no time...
just take the downpipe out, and take out the turbo by removing the 4 bolts that connects to the block
10 minutes MAX
just take the downpipe out, and take out the turbo by removing the 4 bolts that connects to the block
10 minutes MAX
10-17-05, 05:05 PM
#32
Super Raterhater
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: NY, MA, MI, OR, TX, and now LA or AZ!
Posts: 10,626
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Well, you either really pinched a seal, or those o-rings are fubar'd, or you're blind and can't see the leak, lol. Either way, I'd spend a little more time trying to locate just exactly where it's coming from, have you noticed any coolant leaks prior to all this overheating stuff?
10-17-05, 05:16 PM
#33
Originally Posted by The Spyder
What about the oil feed and return lines? The water feed and return lines? The wastegate/solinoid? The intake pipes?
are you trying to be cute?
disconnect the water in, unscrew the thing for the oil in, disconnect water out by removing one end, disconnect the oil out by unscrewing the two bolts next to the omp,,, all those takes NO TIME,,, and wastegate/solenoid,,, where did you get that from? you just pull the vacuum hose,,, intake pipes, sam ething, remove one end from the tmic, and the other from the turbo and pull it off as 1 piece...
have you ever removed a turbo? it takes no time....
Last edited by slpin; 10-17-05 at 05:22 PM.
10-17-05, 05:21 PM
#34
Originally Posted by SonicRaT
Well, you either really pinched a seal, or those o-rings are fubar'd, or you're blind and can't see the leak, lol. Either way, I'd spend a little more time trying to locate just exactly where it's coming from, have you noticed any coolant leaks prior to all this overheating stuff?
Turbo and LIM are OFF and well... Let's just say it's a disaster area 'in there', LOL. Which is exciting, because more that likely my internal coolant seals are fine!
It's a good thing I was told by (you, SonicRaT) to not rip out the motor until pressure testing, because that motivated me earlier today, to do one more round of testing before pulling the motor... This testing obviously lead to the discovery of the huge leak from the LIM, which led me to discover:
The RTV I had used for a gasket was well, in various states of disarray. Let's just say (I can't believe it's come to this) that using O-rings are necessary...
I was literally 'scooping' coolant out of the secondary intake ports, oh and my turbo's exhaust manifold is FLOODED
again, Ahem, that being said, I'm off to the local autoparts store to buy new O-rings and I'll post back when the project is completed.
Thanks everyone for the good advice etc.
10-17-05, 05:38 PM
#36
Originally Posted by slpin
oh comon, i get no credit? i said u should pull it off and not let the trouble bother you!!! COMON!!! U MEANIE!
Only my girlfriend calls me that. Damn.
LoL. Na, its damn easy to have a turbo out of the car in 30 minutes. Just reminding you thats there more then 4 bolts.
10-17-05, 05:47 PM
#37
Super Raterhater
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: NY, MA, MI, OR, TX, and now LA or AZ!
Posts: 10,626
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Originally Posted by eriksseven
haha, no leaks before it overheated.
Turbo and LIM are OFF and well... Let's just say it's a disaster area 'in there', LOL. Which is exciting, because more that likely my internal coolant seals are fine!
It's a good thing I was told by (you, SonicRaT) to not rip out the motor until pressure testing, because that motivated me earlier today, to do one more round of testing before pulling the motor... This testing obviously lead to the discovery of the huge leak from the LIM, which led me to discover:
The RTV I had used for a gasket was well, in various states of disarray. Let's just say (I can't believe it's come to this) that using O-rings are necessary...
I was literally 'scooping' coolant out of the secondary intake ports, oh and my turbo's exhaust manifold is FLOODED again,
Ahem, that being said, I'm off to the local autoparts store to buy new O-rings and I'll post back when the project is completed.
Thanks everyone for the good advice etc.
Turbo and LIM are OFF and well... Let's just say it's a disaster area 'in there', LOL. Which is exciting, because more that likely my internal coolant seals are fine!
It's a good thing I was told by (you, SonicRaT) to not rip out the motor until pressure testing, because that motivated me earlier today, to do one more round of testing before pulling the motor... This testing obviously lead to the discovery of the huge leak from the LIM, which led me to discover:
The RTV I had used for a gasket was well, in various states of disarray. Let's just say (I can't believe it's come to this) that using O-rings are necessary...
I was literally 'scooping' coolant out of the secondary intake ports, oh and my turbo's exhaust manifold is FLOODED
again, Ahem, that being said, I'm off to the local autoparts store to buy new O-rings and I'll post back when the project is completed.
Thanks everyone for the good advice etc.
10-18-05, 12:33 AM
#39
Well, mission completed and... Failed.
So, I got some O-rings, put 'em in and got everything put back together. I removed the spark-plugs and cranked for a couple 10 second, sessions to try and get some of the coolant out of there. I went to fire it up, and it simply couldn't... There was a BUNCH of smoke, so I knew it was pretty flooded with probably both fuel and coolant. I decided to compression start it, which I did.
It barely ran at first and blew smoke, JUST like a fresh rebuild. I let it idle for a few minutes before putting around. It felt just fine, so I drove it home and let it idle for about 10 minutes while I observed it. No leaks, no boiling coolant, nothing being pushed out of the over-flow, everything was awesome...
Until 10 minutes ago when I went to take it out. I went to start it and I had to use the fuel-cut switch (cold-start, not a good sign). It FINALLY started and ran like it was on 'one rotor', before the other one 'kicked in'. Anyone who's had a coolant seal failure will know what I'm talking about. I ran out behind it and smelled the, "oh so sweet" smell of failure... haha. Then the buzzer of doom came on.
End of story.
No leaks, nothing. Just blown coolant seals.
But it's not a big deal. I'll order some from Atkins tomorrow while I remove the motor, and hopefully they seals'll get here the day after and I'll be able to rebuild and re-install.
Side-note:
Yeah, the turbo isn't too hard to remove, it's just I've done it so much I'm tired of it... It's just an annoyance. I will say, it's WAY easier to pull with all the emissions stuff out of the way.
So, I got some O-rings, put 'em in and got everything put back together. I removed the spark-plugs and cranked for a couple 10 second, sessions to try and get some of the coolant out of there. I went to fire it up, and it simply couldn't... There was a BUNCH of smoke, so I knew it was pretty flooded with probably both fuel and coolant. I decided to compression start it, which I did.
It barely ran at first and blew smoke, JUST like a fresh rebuild. I let it idle for a few minutes before putting around. It felt just fine, so I drove it home and let it idle for about 10 minutes while I observed it. No leaks, no boiling coolant, nothing being pushed out of the over-flow, everything was awesome...
Until 10 minutes ago when I went to take it out. I went to start it and I had to use the fuel-cut switch (cold-start, not a good sign). It FINALLY started and ran like it was on 'one rotor', before the other one 'kicked in'. Anyone who's had a coolant seal failure will know what I'm talking about. I ran out behind it and smelled the, "oh so sweet" smell of failure... haha. Then the buzzer of doom came on.
End of story.
No leaks, nothing. Just blown coolant seals.
But it's not a big deal. I'll order some from Atkins tomorrow while I remove the motor, and hopefully they seals'll get here the day after and I'll be able to rebuild and re-install.
Side-note:
Yeah, the turbo isn't too hard to remove, it's just I've done it so much I'm tired of it... It's just an annoyance. I will say, it's WAY easier to pull with all the emissions stuff out of the way.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post