jreynish

iTrader: (2)

1990 Turbo
Now I have the wiring in the car back to stock everything except emmisions.
now here is the deal I cannot for the life of me get the injectors to click or it to through any spark, I cannot figure it out.
so If I connect a spair CAS I have and spin it by hand while the key is in the ON position I get the fuel pump starts running, but no injectors clicking or any spark. I cannot for the life of me figure out what would cause this. Anybody with any ideas?
I have checked all the fuses and all of their connections
I have checked the grounds and their connections.
the battery is good... the engine is turning plenty fast.
ensured there are no broken wires between the cas and the ecu there are none.
my ecu works in another s5 car with no problems.
i cannot figure this out for the life of me any and or all help would be appreciated

HAILERS

Go to the small two wire white connector at the LEAD coil assy. Key to ON and pull the plug apart and see if the Black/Yellow wire has batt voltage or not. Got voltage? I've no idea why you have no spark.

No voltage at the black/yellow? Then the 30a EGI fuse is kaput or the pwr from that fuse to the MAIN RELAY isn't getting to or out of the MAIN RELAY.

Also backprobe pin 1B on the ECU and see if you have batt voltage there with the key ON.

HAILERS

FORGET about what I wrote above. You have a HALTEC and I didn't see that down at the bottom. Why not post on the HALTEC forum???? More relevant.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

nope if you noticed above back to stock... not more haltech or big turbo... back to stock.
There is voltage lead coil
I will go check 1b right now and report back.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

Ok 13.5V at the Lead coil checked again just to be certain
and on pin 1B on the ecu in the ON position there is 0.03 V I don't think that is right... what might be the cause... Man I miss the haltech already lol.
EDIT: I see that it goes to the main relay but it is cliking on and all that good stuff I cannot figure out what is going on. i will probe the outputs of the main relay and see what goes on, and post it here.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

Ok main relay checks out as per FSM specs... there is 12 volt going to it, when in the ON position there is continuity between a-b and c-d so that works at least

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

hailers, anybody with any thoughts?

hottieblonde

damn

hottieblonde

a friend of mine had the exact same problem with his car as well.. he never figured it out and he didn't want to take it to anyone cause then it would have be really pricey fro them to take all this time trying to figure it out... all i can say is if u can't figure it out take it to a trusting machanical friend who will help you figure it out......... other than that i wish u good luck.....

jeremy

iTrader: (1)

any place in the harness that you may have disconnected and not reconnected?

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

Yes, but I have gone over it about a dozen times and cannot find one. I am nearly at a loss.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

so if I temporarily through a fused connection connect 1B to the ignition on wire will this prove if that is my problem, will I also then have to connect temporarily throuhg a fused connection the pin that indicates the ignition is in the "start" position?

HAILERS

IF this is a 90 series five, there should be batt voltage on 1B and it gets there thru the MAIN RELAY on a black/white wire. Make sure the wire your looking at is black/white.

Also the 1A should have batt voltage also. I've seen cars run without this though on 1A or the equivalent on a series four.

I'd pull the plug off the MAIN RELAY and on the plug, jumper the White/REd to the Black/Yellow then jumper the Black/White to the White/Blue then start the car OR before that make sure that you have batt voltage at 1B. Yes. Do that before trying to start the car. No sense wasting time.

By the way, the black/white runs directly to pin 1B from that MAINRELAY plug. Its black/white on the main relay plug also.

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

Ok I managed to get 12 volt in the "on" position on 1b and on 1A it has 12v all the time
and on 1C there is 12v during "start" position.
Now it hasn't made a single bit of difference in the way the car is opperating. I am getting supremely frusterated... anybody with any thoughts?

Thanks

TriadMotors

one of the guys i know screwed there car up like that and it ended up being a short in the afm

jreynish

iTrader: (2)

well i have two S5 Turbo afm's and neither make a difference... so i do not think that is it.