Weird idling
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From: Virginia
Weird idling
88 convertible. 5 speed
Seems to surge up and down while idling quite a bit. While driving it is ok but if I put it back in neutral it starts surging again.
throttle body? Thermostat?
Seems to surge up and down while idling quite a bit. While driving it is ok but if I put it back in neutral it starts surging again.
throttle body? Thermostat?
But did you actually verify the reading of the TPS to make sure it's adjusted properly?
I'd set your TPS, and then hunt for vacuum leaks. And by that I mean if your vac hoses have never been changed out by you personally, I'd do them all at once. You will have to remove the throttle body and upper intake manifold to do so.
Almost all weird idle issues are TPS or vac leak related..
After you've done those two things, post back here and let us know if there is still an issue and more assistance will be provided.
I'd set your TPS, and then hunt for vacuum leaks. And by that I mean if your vac hoses have never been changed out by you personally, I'd do them all at once. You will have to remove the throttle body and upper intake manifold to do so.
Almost all weird idle issues are TPS or vac leak related..
After you've done those two things, post back here and let us know if there is still an issue and more assistance will be provided.
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Joined: Apr 2017
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From: Virginia
But did you actually verify the reading of the TPS to make sure it's adjusted properly?
I'd set your TPS, and then hunt for vacuum leaks. And by that I mean if your vac hoses have never been changed out by you personally, I'd do them all at once. You will have to remove the throttle body and upper intake manifold to do so.
Almost all weird idle issues are TPS or vac leak related..
After you've done those two things, post back here and let us know if there is still an issue and more assistance will be provided.
I'd set your TPS, and then hunt for vacuum leaks. And by that I mean if your vac hoses have never been changed out by you personally, I'd do them all at once. You will have to remove the throttle body and upper intake manifold to do so.
Almost all weird idle issues are TPS or vac leak related..
After you've done those two things, post back here and let us know if there is still an issue and more assistance will be provided.
Thanks will do!
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Joined: Apr 2017
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From: Virginia
But did you actually verify the reading of the TPS to make sure it's adjusted properly?
I'd set your TPS, and then hunt for vacuum leaks. And by that I mean if your vac hoses have never been changed out by you personally, I'd do them all at once. You will have to remove the throttle body and upper intake manifold to do so.
Almost all weird idle issues are TPS or vac leak related..
After you've done those two things, post back here and let us know if there is still an issue and more assistance will be provided.
I'd set your TPS, and then hunt for vacuum leaks. And by that I mean if your vac hoses have never been changed out by you personally, I'd do them all at once. You will have to remove the throttle body and upper intake manifold to do so.
Almost all weird idle issues are TPS or vac leak related..
After you've done those two things, post back here and let us know if there is still an issue and more assistance will be provided.
What voltage should it be reading?
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From: Virginia
Ok so the TPS 101 guide was in ohms, so that's what I measured. It said a warm car should read 1000 ohms. Mine was at about 1600. Got it down to right around 1000. Drove it, tested again. Adjusted again...right around 1000.
When I start it after the adjustments now it only jumps to about 1500 rpm then drops down and hangs between 850 and 900. Is that an appropriate idle for this car?
Yea, that's more the norm.
Using the volt method is more precise because that's what the ecu is looking for is that 1 volt. If you want to get crazy, you'd meter it at the ecu to account for any aged wiring...
Without the accelerated warmup functioning, cold starts result in 1,500ish rpm and drop as the thermowax/fast idle system does its thing and slowly lowers it to normal idle speed. Technically, 750rpm is a normal warm idle... But there's no harm in it being fudged a little higher.
You should really verify your timing. This will require that you jumper the initial set coupler.. Then Recheck your TPS using the volt method, further adjust your idle speed with the screw on the top of the throttle body.. If you're feeling froggy, or have reason to believe someone has messed with this next item, you could tinker with the variable resistor... It essentially controls the mixture at idle. You'd be turning the screw slowly in either direction to achieve your highest idle speed, then back it off a hair of the 'see you next Tuesday ' variety. ;-)
All of these things really need to be done at the same time on a warm engine.
You'd also be smart to grab a light and an inspection mirror and verify that your thermowax is adjusted to spec per the fsm and functioning normally without any issues.
Some of this is **** and unnecessary if the car is running decently, but it never hurts to know that all is actually well.
Since we're being ****, you may as well pull the carpet up and the plate off to reveal your ecu and see what your ecu sees from the Coolant 'switch' that lives on the back of the waterpump housing... And maybe even meter the 02 sensor to check that it's working properly as well.
Gotta love my little cookie crumbs. The information is out there, but you can't always expect us to do *all* the work for you :-P
By the by.. Before you start tearing off your throttle body and upper intake to replace all your vac hoses, here's another thing to consider.. Your pulsation dampener. Do what we affectionately refer to as the 'banjo bolt mod'.
Are we having fun yet?
Using the volt method is more precise because that's what the ecu is looking for is that 1 volt. If you want to get crazy, you'd meter it at the ecu to account for any aged wiring...
Without the accelerated warmup functioning, cold starts result in 1,500ish rpm and drop as the thermowax/fast idle system does its thing and slowly lowers it to normal idle speed. Technically, 750rpm is a normal warm idle... But there's no harm in it being fudged a little higher.
You should really verify your timing. This will require that you jumper the initial set coupler.. Then Recheck your TPS using the volt method, further adjust your idle speed with the screw on the top of the throttle body.. If you're feeling froggy, or have reason to believe someone has messed with this next item, you could tinker with the variable resistor... It essentially controls the mixture at idle. You'd be turning the screw slowly in either direction to achieve your highest idle speed, then back it off a hair of the 'see you next Tuesday ' variety. ;-)
All of these things really need to be done at the same time on a warm engine.
You'd also be smart to grab a light and an inspection mirror and verify that your thermowax is adjusted to spec per the fsm and functioning normally without any issues.
Some of this is **** and unnecessary if the car is running decently, but it never hurts to know that all is actually well.
Since we're being ****, you may as well pull the carpet up and the plate off to reveal your ecu and see what your ecu sees from the Coolant 'switch' that lives on the back of the waterpump housing... And maybe even meter the 02 sensor to check that it's working properly as well.
Gotta love my little cookie crumbs. The information is out there, but you can't always expect us to do *all* the work for you :-P
By the by.. Before you start tearing off your throttle body and upper intake to replace all your vac hoses, here's another thing to consider.. Your pulsation dampener. Do what we affectionately refer to as the 'banjo bolt mod'.
Are we having fun yet?
Last edited by Acesanugal; Apr 16, 2017 at 09:55 PM.
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From: Virginia
Yea, that's more the norm.
Using the volt method is more precise because that's what the ecu is looking for is that 1 volt. If you want to get crazy, you'd meter it at the ecu to account for any aged wiring...
Without the accelerated warmup functioning, cold starts result in 1,500ish rpm and drop as the thermowax/fast idle system does its thing and slowly lowers it to normal idle speed. Technically, 750rpm is a normal warm idle... But there's no harm in it being fudged a little higher.
You should really verify your timing. This will require that you jumper the initial set coupler.. Then Recheck your TPS using the volt method, further adjust your idle speed with the screw on the top of the throttle body.. If you're feeling froggy, or have reason to believe someone has messed with this next item, you could tinker with the variable resistor... It essentially controls the mixture at idle. You'd be turning the screw slowly in either direction to achieve your highest idle speed, then back it off a hair of the 'see you next Tuesday ' variety. ;-)
All of these things really need to be done at the same time on a warm engine.
You'd also be smart to grab a light and an inspection mirror and verify that your thermowax is adjusted to spec per the fsm and functioning normally without any issues.
Some of this is **** and unnecessary if the car is running decently, but it never hurts to know that all is actually well.
Since we're being ****, you may as well pull the carpet up and the plate off to reveal your ecu and see what your ecu sees from the Coolant 'switch' that lives on the back of the waterpump housing... And maybe even meter the 02 sensor to check that it's working properly as well.
Gotta love my little cookie crumbs. The information is out there, but you can't always expect us to do *all* the work for you :-P
By the by.. Before you start tearing off your throttle body and upper intake to replace all your vac hoses, here's another thing to consider.. Your pulsation dampener. Do what we affectionately refer to as the 'banjo bolt mod'.
Are we having fun yet?
Using the volt method is more precise because that's what the ecu is looking for is that 1 volt. If you want to get crazy, you'd meter it at the ecu to account for any aged wiring...
Without the accelerated warmup functioning, cold starts result in 1,500ish rpm and drop as the thermowax/fast idle system does its thing and slowly lowers it to normal idle speed. Technically, 750rpm is a normal warm idle... But there's no harm in it being fudged a little higher.
You should really verify your timing. This will require that you jumper the initial set coupler.. Then Recheck your TPS using the volt method, further adjust your idle speed with the screw on the top of the throttle body.. If you're feeling froggy, or have reason to believe someone has messed with this next item, you could tinker with the variable resistor... It essentially controls the mixture at idle. You'd be turning the screw slowly in either direction to achieve your highest idle speed, then back it off a hair of the 'see you next Tuesday ' variety. ;-)
All of these things really need to be done at the same time on a warm engine.
You'd also be smart to grab a light and an inspection mirror and verify that your thermowax is adjusted to spec per the fsm and functioning normally without any issues.
Some of this is **** and unnecessary if the car is running decently, but it never hurts to know that all is actually well.
Since we're being ****, you may as well pull the carpet up and the plate off to reveal your ecu and see what your ecu sees from the Coolant 'switch' that lives on the back of the waterpump housing... And maybe even meter the 02 sensor to check that it's working properly as well.
Gotta love my little cookie crumbs. The information is out there, but you can't always expect us to do *all* the work for you :-P
By the by.. Before you start tearing off your throttle body and upper intake to replace all your vac hoses, here's another thing to consider.. Your pulsation dampener. Do what we affectionately refer to as the 'banjo bolt mod'.
Are we having fun yet?
So I just went to move my car, and when I started it the rpms jumped up to about 2500 then plummeted and the engine cut off. I started it again, drove it for a minute then parked. It idled around 850.
what gives lol?
Sounds to me like like you have quite a bit of work ahead of you...
As with any new (old *** hell) FC purchase, you need to bring the car up to spec. Vac and fuel hoses, plugs, all new fluids, verifying that all your critical sensors are in spec, etc... Basically what I've already laid out. Mostly.
As with any new (old *** hell) FC purchase, you need to bring the car up to spec. Vac and fuel hoses, plugs, all new fluids, verifying that all your critical sensors are in spec, etc... Basically what I've already laid out. Mostly.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2017
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From: Virginia
Sounds to me like like you have quite a bit of work ahead of you...
As with any new (old *** hell) FC purchase, you need to bring the car up to spec. Vac and fuel hoses, plugs, all new fluids, verifying that all your critical sensors are in spec, etc... Basically what I've already laid out. Mostly.
As with any new (old *** hell) FC purchase, you need to bring the car up to spec. Vac and fuel hoses, plugs, all new fluids, verifying that all your critical sensors are in spec, etc... Basically what I've already laid out. Mostly.
Wellllllll son of a gun lol. Part of the reason I bought this was to learn how to do all of this stuff myself...so I guess I got what I asked for lol!
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From: Virginia
hmmm...I'll have to double check. I tried getting it to read volts but it wasn't picking anything up.
This is the meter I'm using
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From: Suffolk, Va
So Ironman you are saying your idle is bouncing up and down correct? Here is a long thread below and links to other threads as well. Seems like folk had multiple fixes for this. I to have had this issue. Anyways my issue came and go at times it seemed. I now have a adaptronics ECU at one point when tuning it I had a similar issue and I just added more fuel at idle and it went away. It was leaning out some it seemed. Anyways here is the link. Good Luck!
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...00-rpm-162598/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...00-rpm-162598/
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2017
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From: Virginia
So Ironman you are saying your idle is bouncing up and down correct? Here is a long thread below and links to other threads as well. Seems like folk had multiple fixes for this. I to have had this issue. Anyways my issue came and go at times it seemed. I now have a adaptronics ECU at one point when tuning it I had a similar issue and I just added more fuel at idle and it went away. It was leaning out some it seemed. Anyways here is the link. Good Luck!
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...00-rpm-162598/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...00-rpm-162598/
Really appreciate everyone helping out!
So we found a few vacuum leaks and a busted hose. Also a few items that were simply unplugged lol...
Fixed all that up and it runs substantially better. Still jumps to about 2500 rpm when starting, but drops and stays FAIRLY steady between 800 - 900 rpm. Still has that feeling as if it is almost choking...if that makes sense?
I'm going to check the thermo was and look into the banjo mod that the extremely knowledgeable gentleman above suggested. May also simply replace the TPS for good measure.
Definitely a learning experience lol! Every time I think I'm getting to know a least SOMETHING about this thing it turns out I'm still very stupid haha. I was enthralled with the idea of a V8 swap, but members here informed me how much it would actually cost lol... I would rather just buy a different car haha. Still considering the t2 swap...hmmmmm.