sudseh

Actually, I think the problem is just that I'm running hellarich and the aux ports aren't opening up... i'm going to go and try to get them to work right now.

suds.

HAILERS

Actually, what I wrote is WRONG. I think in n/a terms too much. On a n/a pulling that plug WILL dump the airpump air overboard right away.

On a turbo, if you pull that plug off, you have to rev the engine up just a bit to around 1100 or so to get enough pressure to the relief valve on the bottom of the acv to push the poppet valve up to open the passage to the dump tube on the bottom of the acv (dumps the air to the silencer in the fender).

If you look at page 4B-38 of the 87fsm it shows the acv diagram. The acv has a nipple that comes straight out towards the fender, about in the middle of the acv. That is a passage for air from the airpump to travel around to the other side of the engine and it connects to the Relief Solenoid. If the Relief solenoid is engergize, the air pressure stops right there. If the valve is de-engergized it passes thru the solenoid back to the acv and connects to the lowest nipple on the acv. There it enters the acv and pushes the relief VALVE off its seat and now allows all/most all the airpump air to go overboard into the silencer in the right front fender.

Then again, another way to look at it is........if you remove the only vacuum line off the acv (the one that sticks straight up), then the switching valve inside the acv should slam shut and not allow any air to go to the exaust ports. In that state it can't dump overboard either, so the air goes to the split air pipe on the other side of the 02 sensor.

Some acv don't react this way on turbos. There's a reason. Reason being the switching diaphram has been cooked to a crisp over a decade and flat won't move. Same with the relief valves diaphram, but in my small experience, it does not seem to rot away as much as the switching diaphram.

One thing I noticed recently is that the older the relief diaphram .....the more Pressure it takes to open one. I compared a fairly new one with a much older one. It's noticable.

I'm talking turbo acv, not non turbo acv.

HAILERS

I assume we're both talking Relief Solenoid, it being a blue connector. So I don't see any real disagreement at all.

At idle the Relief solenoid is energized. Shuts off the passage of air from the relief solenoid to the bottom nipple of the acv. Rev the engine to 3800rpm and the valve is de-energized to open and dumps the air from the acv into the fender. Now there is no air being mixed with the exaust from the engine so the 02 sensor now reads a true afr.

Don't look at a schematic of a n/a acv when thinking about this. It works a bit different.

muythaibxr

what I don't get is this: how could all that cause a crappy idle, and cause the car to run bad when that solenoid is hooked up, but when we unhook it, the car runs great, and the o2 controller shows a good afr?

muythaibxr

but we're talking about N/A. Tofu doesn't have a turbo.

muythaibxr

so looking at the diagram, it looks like bypassing the acv by disconnecting the relief solenoid fixes the problem with the bad idle, and misfiring and such. .. so that means the real problem could be anything in the ACV, or that changes the operation of it, including the relief solenoid, switching solenoid, port-air solenoid, water temp switch or thermo sensor, or the ACV itself....

HAILERS

NO. The acv should not be effecting the idle since the air should not be going to any place but the exaust ports or the split air pipe.

The only exception to this is if the anti afterburn valve in the acv is broken. The anti afterburn valve is the only thing in the acv that EVER puts air into the INTAKE manifold, and then only if you let off the throttle.

So If disabling the blue solenoid fixed a idle problem, then it's possible the anti afterburn valve is busted. If the rest of the acv is functioning, then you can block off the two holes in the mating side of the acv to prevent the air leak OR buy another acv. Those two holes can be blocked off with common RTV. Two holes are located on the mating side of the acv itself. Simple fix. Takes only the time to remove the acv, apply the RTV and letting it set up for a couple of hours, then reinstall the acv. Only three nuts and a hose or three.

I jpg'd a picture of these two holes once upon a time. It's on this site somewhere.

Or maybe you have the three hose on the acv routed wrong also.

muythaibxr

Ahh, I guess that's what AAV was in the diagram I was looking at. I noticed that it went into the intake, but I didn't know what it was. (I'm new to the 13B, I've worked on nothing but various manufacturers' piston engines, so trying to help debug this is a learning process to me).

I guess I'll get him to check that stuff on his car. Either way I'm happy because it means the Wideband O2 controller is working fine, and the problem was something to do with the emissions systems in the engine, AND we'll be able to debug the problem.

HAILERS: Thanks for the help.

Tofuball

WBO2 WORKS!!! WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!! !!


*ahem*

Yeh, I'm gonna check all the air/coolant temp sensors and then check the ACV itself . . .

Tofuball

Everything checks out, but it is running rather lean.
I'm going to check fuel filter and pump gaskets.

HAILERS

How lean is lean???? Under driving conditions, right? It's rare that a RX-7 will run lean IMHO.

Tofuball

It is runnin lean at all times, thus I suspect fuel pressure.

It will make it to 8KRPM, but it is running so lean its not really making good or smooth power.

It is running so lean that under regular driving conditions the car hesitates like crazy (with almost any movement of the throttle) and has major bucking issues. It smells lean (horrable) the WBO2 reads lean, and the driving feels like the way a lean car normally drives.

Tofuball

Lean condition SOLVED. It was the in tank fuel pump gasket.

Ordered a new one from Malloy for like $19, installed it, runs great

Only problem I have now is if I rev to 2K and drop it, it will idle at 1.3K or so. (Smoothly)
But if I stab the throttle and let go quickly (Reving fast to 4K and dropping) it will idle normally at 800RPM (Smoothly)

Any ideas on how to fix this, or what is causing it? I am thinking it might have to do with the throttle linkage or the anti-afterburn valve.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

throttle cable is to tight, Happens on mine as well.

Tofuball

Interesting, I will check that, thanks

Tofuball

Throttle cable was not too tight at all :/ the linkage is not sticking at all. Interesting.

I have a few totally intermittent problems that are leading me to just block off the ACV and BAC to see if that makes the problems go away. Perhaps a short in my wiring harness or something.

Tofuball

I got fed up.

MegaSquirt project started, writeup and pictures are in progress.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

throttle cable sticks, not to tight, sorry. So what are you using mega squirt for? Is that piggy back or is that just an added injector controller?

Tofuball

Nither!

It is a full Engine Management System.

It completely replaces the stock ECU.

It handles both fuel and ignition.
It will also handle when my AUX/VDI open, and my water injection.

I am pleased to throw my AFM, TPS, MOP, and entire rats nest into the trash.

Bukwild

Jason I will have the 89-91 jspec turbo on my vert now that you can use to slap some boost on that bad boy. I am still doing my full t04 setup.