The rear iron on my engine had a different water temperature sender with a bigger thread size installed and now I cannot replace it with the original one. Should I just jb weld the old sender or is it possible to find a sender with the bigger thread yet has the same male end?

 

and why do you care about the inaccurate stock temperature gauge again?

 

because my brother here, is a perfectionist

 

NEVER JBWELD anything to do with water temp/radiator/thermostart etc. Just mho

And you know that Mazda changed the thread type/size some year/some series? They read the same but the threads are different. See MAZDATRIX.COM and the water section and they explain it better.

But if you mean someone drilled out the original hole and tapped in new threads to mate with a AutoMeter or some such aftermarket...................eeeeek!

This site, bottom of the page: http://www.mazdatrix.com/86-92Electrical.htm

 

looking at the mazdatrix site, im guessing maybe the new sender may work as the thread size is bigger than the original one I have. Any ideas on how to remove already cured jb weld?

 

**********8remove already cured jb weld?*********************8

Butane torch. Then a small screwdriver or pick to remove the burnt remains. High pressure air might just blow it away after burning it off.

 

With the engine is already in the car, would the torch damage any of the electricals, hoses, and water seals?

 

i'D say with the sensor out of the hole and no water in the *block*, that you could play the flame right at the hole and the JB should start smoking right away and start burning off.

 

If it is sealing I would leave it. To get it hot enough to remove jb weld you are going to end up heating the iron quite a bit. That could shrink the metal in that area causing stress which could lead to a cracked iron.

 

mazdatrix is the one stop shop for fc owners with money

 

The sensor cannot be taken out of its hole because I jb welded the bottom of the head of the fastener to the flat space around the hole. If any torching is to be done I will need to heat the iron, sensor, and the jb weld all at once.

 

JB weld.... the cure all.. NO IT ISN'T!!

pffft, should i bother?

ok guess i will elaborate.. the smaller diameter threaded rear iron is a S4 iron which uses a bullet connector sensor. the larger diameter rear iron was found in S5 and S6(FD) engines and uses a spade connector, the resistances of all the series sensors is the same though the gauges work differently.

in short, you need to find either an S5 or an FD(both are the same sensor) coolant temp sensor and cut off the female bullet connector and crimp on a spade connector.

 

Thanks for the reply but before I can do any of that, I need to find a way to remove the sensor from the threaded hole as it has been jb welded to the iron.

I'm guessing I shouldn't try to break of the jb weld by turning the sensor with a ratchet...

 

Like I said, if it is sealing, leave it there until you need to rebuild, then find another iron. Taking it out is going to cause more problems than it will solve.

 

I'm guessing I shouldn't try to break of the jb weld by turning the sensor with a ratchet******************************************* *************************************

That'll work. Then play the butane torch on the residue JBWELD. You WILL NOT harm the side housing. You don't need to get it red hot. The JBWELD will burn and turn to charcoal like residue and you can brush it off/pick it off/ blow it off/whatever off. NOT a big deal.

 

The side housing maybe alright, but would the heat kill the water o-rings?

 

it may if you heat it too much, OEM seals begin to melt at approx 265F+

also, since no one mentioned this... the sensor needs to ground to the engine, JB weld is not metal so the sensor in there is totally worthless and is now only acting as a plug. you should ask before doing next time, lesson learned.