i have a 86 na rx7 and i was cleaning the motor cus it gets pretty dirty after awhile. Anywho i have an open air element filter (HKS) and i was trying not to get it wet and the car was still running and after i was done washing the engine bay i revved the car up a little by hand and i forgot the filter got a little wet. So i took it off and there was a little water in the AFM so i just wiped it out and shaked off the filter and put it back on and went for a spin around the block. Everything was fine, but next day i went out and now it seems like the cars fuel is cutting out at a certain RPM and it bogs some. Could this have caused this or maybe just a problem with my fuel system? I will try the car tomarrow and see if it keeps on. But i would like some insight before i damage something. Also a small note, i usually run fuel boosters. can that have damaging effects? Thanks - TK

 

water won't hurt, but the fuel boosters will.

You want to run the lowest octane you can get (ideally 86 or 87 RON) with 0 (that would be zero) fuel additives for the most power on a non turbo 13B. If you felt like you had to waste some money and put in some additive, a little 2 stroke oil (maybe 4-8 oz per tank maximum) would be the only extra.

Running regular fuel boosters in a rotary will lead to carbon and deposit build up, both on the rotor faces and spark plugs. Often leading to motor failure at worst, and lower mileage at best.

 

great, anythin i can do to help my motor now? Maybe somethin to get rid of the carbon and deposits that may have built up over the years? Thanks

 

actually for that you would want to do the water treatment.

Kevin (www.rotaryresurrection.com) has it posted on his site, or you can search here.

 

does it really work? have you performed this procedure? If i dont do it right can there be damaging effects? sounds risky to me...

 

I regularly (once year or so) run about a gal of distilled water through my intake (through a specific vac line) and motor while the engine is running.

I wouldn't recommend it otherwise.

Remember the rotary engine was a water pump before it was an engine.

 

which vac line? i have a vacum leak, it wont work for me will it?

 

what about BG44K? i have a hook up and i can get it but i need to know if it is bad for rotaries, im not sure if it is.

 

And which vac line would that be?

 

which vac line do i use on the S4 na? it didnt specify on the site.

 

which motor??? It is all different. But for your S4 non turbo, I use the middle vac line on the rear side of the throttle body (there are three there).

 

nevermind.>>

 

right on, i was planning on using one of those too. thanks mann i wil let you know how it all works out for me. -TK

 

just did it. took awhile to do it. Kinda took awhile cus i was doin it by myself but after awhile. i started to notice it was helping. Now my car runs better, not so much tick. Idles smoother and it even seems to turn better? haha anyways, thanks again. maybe i will do it more on a regular basis. I didnt use a gallon just maybe half but i can still feel the difference. Now i just gotta burn all the fuel additives out of my tank and use regular. Good stuff, i was kinda iffy at first but it works. - TK

 

pretty amazing eh??

 

I duno if this is true or not but i heard that a wet filter wont have the same flow/filtering ablities as a dry one. Just something you might wanna be careful of. as for water getting into your engine? as long as its a small amount it will just turn into steam. avoid large amount though.

 

so I shouldn't put 89 into my car? I should just get reg?

 

For a basicly stock non turbo (and non reni) yes, 86 or 87 octane will provide you with the best power and mileage and 89 RON and up is a waste of money and may not burn completely.

Remember the Octane rating does not mean how much power the fuel will make, but rather how far it can be compressed before it self ignites. Higher the Octane number, the higher compression it can take before it explodes. With non turbo FCs the lower octane helps burn more thoughly as the mixture is easier to ignite at full compression in our long combustion chambers.

Always use the lowest number you can get that the engine (any engine) runs on without knocking/detonating.

The exception to that rule is many of the newer (last 5 years) engines that are designed to run on the higher octane, then using a lower octane will result in the engine computer cranking back the timing lowering power. And of course modified Turbo/forced induction engines with their high requirements for fuel mixture compression.