Wastegate Flapper Disintegrated
#1
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Wastegate Flapper Disintegrated
Well I used to have a nice shiny wastegate flapper, but it decided to completely disappear. I have been troubleshooting boost problems for a while and this is what happened. Here is a before and after shot of my WG and a pic of the WG now after about 8 months.
But the sweet part is that I have had an S5 turbo & manifold sitting around waiting for money to send to BNR, so I swapped it on and it's awesome. Boost comes on much faster than my S4 even when it was working perfectly. Boost is great.
But the sweet part is that I have had an S5 turbo & manifold sitting around waiting for money to send to BNR, so I swapped it on and it's awesome. Boost comes on much faster than my S4 even when it was working perfectly. Boost is great.
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Actually you can still see the welds, they stayed. The black steel washer I used is no more though. Yes the S5 is a bolt on replacement. You need a couple of the S4 lines and you need to cap off the Twinscroll vac line.
#5
Sharp Claws
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already been over this, you have to use hardened steel like an exhaust valve for a flapper. if you use a high iron content steel then it will get eaten away by the torch through the port.
if your porting skills are decent you can also get away by retaining the stock flapper as well, if you know how the air is going to move the most through the port.
if your porting skills are decent you can also get away by retaining the stock flapper as well, if you know how the air is going to move the most through the port.
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Well I researched a bunch on here before I had the port done and I found that people were using a black steel washer so that was what I thought was sufficient. Maybe this thread can show people that BLACK STEEL WASHERS DON"T WORK!
#7
Rotary Enthusiast
im gona have to do do the same with mine. Ive tried porting it 2x ( still using original flapper door) and still boost creep. So i guess ill have to weld a piece to mine and port it more
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I just looked up the melting point of 304 Stainless steel and it say 1500 degrees celsius, which is 2742 degrees fahrenheit. I think that should work too. I don't know about the brake rotor though.
#14
Sharp Claws
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stainless steel will both warp and crack and eventually break off due to varying expansion rates vs the base metals. i still believe an exhaust valve is the cheapest and easiest alternative to trying your own R+D to figure out what works. pulling the turbo and messing with the flapper can easily be an all day job each time you have to do it.
#15
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stainless steel will both warp and crack and eventually break off due to varying expansion rates vs the base metals. i still believe an exhaust valve is the cheapest and easiest alternative to trying your own R+D to figure out what works. pulling the turbo and messing with the flapper can easily be an all day job each time you have to do it.
poor quality pics:
http://img63.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=0212102113.jpg
What's the T with a bolt on the end for, you ask? Why, what a pertinent question! Test threading the new bolts into the hot side got one stuck and the head snapped off. I was ******* pissed. I could have finished this at least 2 hours faster if I'd just followed my gut instinct and ground the unnecessary tip off my thread tap so it would chase the threads deeper. I welded the stem of the valve to the bolt, cooled it with ice, heated the turbine housing with a propane torch and it FINALLY started to budge. Gah!