warning lights goes on and off
#1
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warning lights goes on and off
when i am driving the warning lights on the center console where the clock is comes on and while driving goes off again ,happens a lot and at times i hear a relay clicking on and off ,whats really going on here.Is there a relay that controls this and if there is one where do i find it.I did resolder the whole unit and it still does the same thing.
#3
sorry icemark but your "diagnosis" isn't worth to read...
knowing in front of you pc that its the "CPU" or alt is just ridiculous.
it would be much more reasonable to do some testings before changing parts like you would have done...
london, if you have a DVOM and the mecanical and mental skills to use right, get the wiring diagrams of the center console warning lights and test your circuits for wires shorted together or to ground, or open circuits.
if you cant find those diagrams or have other questions feel free to e-mail me at: beetle_rsi@msn.com
knowing in front of you pc that its the "CPU" or alt is just ridiculous.
it would be much more reasonable to do some testings before changing parts like you would have done...
london, if you have a DVOM and the mecanical and mental skills to use right, get the wiring diagrams of the center console warning lights and test your circuits for wires shorted together or to ground, or open circuits.
if you cant find those diagrams or have other questions feel free to e-mail me at: beetle_rsi@msn.com
#4
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by rotorsport
sorry icemark but your "diagnosis" isn't worth to read...
knowing in front of you pc that its the "CPU" or alt is just ridiculous.
it would be much more reasonable to do some testings before changing parts like you would have done...
london, if you have a DVOM and the mecanical and mental skills to use right, get the wiring diagrams of the center console warning lights and test your circuits for wires shorted together or to ground, or open circuits.
if you cant find those diagrams or have other questions feel free to e-mail me at: beetle_rsi@msn.com
sorry icemark but your "diagnosis" isn't worth to read...
knowing in front of you pc that its the "CPU" or alt is just ridiculous.
it would be much more reasonable to do some testings before changing parts like you would have done...
london, if you have a DVOM and the mecanical and mental skills to use right, get the wiring diagrams of the center console warning lights and test your circuits for wires shorted together or to ground, or open circuits.
if you cant find those diagrams or have other questions feel free to e-mail me at: beetle_rsi@msn.com
Okay, I'll clarify for you...
More than likely the Alt is failing (as often happens on out cars when the have more than 10 years on them), but on the outside chance it is not the Alt, The CPU will also trigger the lights if it is seeing a poor voltage signal.
Since it is very common to see cold solder joints show up in many of the Imasen parts built for Honda, Toyota and of couse our beloved Mazda's You can't rule out that issue. Maybe to add to my original diagnosis, I would also say that perhaps a bad solder joint in the actual clock/idiot light panel might also be an issue, but I doubt that really is the case, as he mentions a relay clicking which again points back to the CPU or insufficent voltage in the car to drive it.
But since it is VERY VERY unusual for a wiring based problem (other than weak engine grounds, but that again is a typical 10+ year old Japanese car thing), the odds of even needing a digital multi-meter or the factory schematics to troubleshoot this very basic issue is very small.
#5
okay! now that you clarified it, its much more simple. Then London, you should change the CPU, if it doesnt work then change the alt, if it still doesnt work change the "clock/idiot light panel". And now if it still doesnt work try changing your CPU again cos it means that the new one you got, just had the cold solder joints problem.
you da man mark!!
(does the little needle on the voltage gauge still works when the alt isnt???) oops what am i trying to understand?
you da man mark!!
(does the little needle on the voltage gauge still works when the alt isnt???) oops what am i trying to understand?
#6
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changed alternator
I changed alternator ,i changed cpu ,3 of them and the light still stays on on the center console when you start,the alternator is charging so thats good ,all good body grounds.Any other ideas.Thanks.
#7
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changed alternator
I tried a diifferent alternator and it still is the same way ,i changed cpu ,3 of them and the light still stays on on the center console when you start,the alternator is charging so thats good ,all good body grounds.Any other ideas.Thanks.
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#8
im sorry for you but really get to a mecanic that is known to be good in electricity. If you have all body grouds good thats great! but it doesnt mean that some of the wiring isnt ripped off and touching to body!
good luck!
(hey mark why he changed theses components and it still doesnt work? )
good luck!
(hey mark why he changed theses components and it still doesnt work? )
#10
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by rotorsport
im sorry for you but really get to a mecanic that is known to be good in electricity. If you have all body grouds good thats great! but it doesnt mean that some of the wiring isnt ripped off and touching to body!
good luck!
(hey mark why he changed theses components and it still doesnt work? )
im sorry for you but really get to a mecanic that is known to be good in electricity. If you have all body grouds good thats great! but it doesnt mean that some of the wiring isnt ripped off and touching to body!
good luck!
(hey mark why he changed theses components and it still doesnt work? )
#11
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Okay, number one, just replacing parts with out testing anything is a bad mechanics way of finding a problem.
You actually are going to have to read the gauges when this problem is happening. For example what does the voltage gauge do when all the idiot lights are on??? Is it under 12.5 volts. This is a simple way to check the alt that doesn't require a digital multi-meter or looking for non existent broken wires.
If it is dropping under consistently, then the problem is the alt or its connections. If it is not ever dropping at all then it is more than likely a CPU with a cold solder joint in it. If it is intermittent, then again you need to check the connections to the alt and too the main fuse from the alt (occasionally the main fuse which is bolted in, will have a loose connection), which would act like a intermittent problem.
Of course if the alt was replaced with a local autoparts store one, then its worth only as much as a boat anchor as most local auto parts store's rebuilt alts are burnt out alts, that were cleaned, and only the broken parts were replaced not everything that should be replaced. This means they are very very prone to failing again. So they should not be considered for a rotary application. Use the Mazda or Mitsubishi remanufactured alts, never ever use rebuilt alts.
And a blown fuseable link would only be if the idiot lights were on all the time, and again the voltage would be under 12volts.
Now you do know that the lights should be on when the engine is not running, and while cranking?? And they turn off when the engine is running right???
You actually are going to have to read the gauges when this problem is happening. For example what does the voltage gauge do when all the idiot lights are on??? Is it under 12.5 volts. This is a simple way to check the alt that doesn't require a digital multi-meter or looking for non existent broken wires.
If it is dropping under consistently, then the problem is the alt or its connections. If it is not ever dropping at all then it is more than likely a CPU with a cold solder joint in it. If it is intermittent, then again you need to check the connections to the alt and too the main fuse from the alt (occasionally the main fuse which is bolted in, will have a loose connection), which would act like a intermittent problem.
Of course if the alt was replaced with a local autoparts store one, then its worth only as much as a boat anchor as most local auto parts store's rebuilt alts are burnt out alts, that were cleaned, and only the broken parts were replaced not everything that should be replaced. This means they are very very prone to failing again. So they should not be considered for a rotary application. Use the Mazda or Mitsubishi remanufactured alts, never ever use rebuilt alts.
And a blown fuseable link would only be if the idiot lights were on all the time, and again the voltage would be under 12volts.
Now you do know that the lights should be on when the engine is not running, and while cranking?? And they turn off when the engine is running right???
Last edited by Icemark; 03-29-03 at 11:37 AM.
#12
Must...scrub...parts...
Try opening up the CPU and pulling out the circuit board. On my n/a I had a similar problem that eventually let to the car randomly choosing not to start. I tried everything and eventually pulled the CPU out of its box. The back of the circuit board was covered in corrosion between the solderpoints. I cleaned it all off, and that was the end of the problem.
#13
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by rotorsport
im sorry for you but really get to a mecanic that is known to be good in electricity. If you have all body grouds good thats great! but it doesnt mean that some of the wiring isnt ripped off and touching to body!
im sorry for you but really get to a mecanic that is known to be good in electricity. If you have all body grouds good thats great! but it doesnt mean that some of the wiring isnt ripped off and touching to body!
Mazda's are not like some '60s GM car that had crappy under insulated wiring when new. Why are you wasting this guys time telling him to look for messed up wiring???
#15
no mark my car is in mint condition , thank you to care!
really i had wiring problems and guest what! oh im really not the only one in this situation, really its cheap.
maybe its the conditions in canada or so, or maybe im wrong and i have the only mazda with bad wiring insulation!
nobodies perfect! wow not even me!
next time i know i have to change parts untils it ll works!
i wish ill get the right CPU the first time!
really i had wiring problems and guest what! oh im really not the only one in this situation, really its cheap.
maybe its the conditions in canada or so, or maybe im wrong and i have the only mazda with bad wiring insulation!
nobodies perfect! wow not even me!
next time i know i have to change parts untils it ll works!
i wish ill get the right CPU the first time!
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