I am aiming this question at ICEMARK since he seems to know the most about the actual CPU.

Ok I took out the CPU and looked at it. All the solders seemed to be fine BUT there were many empty holes (where a solder looks like it would go) on the board. I filled a couple of these in and renforced some other solders and I got my courtesy light back for the key ignition. I left some holes empty since that is how they were when I took the CPU out.

I still do not have my horn, wipers, or tachometer working. I have checked all the direct wire connections and they seem to be fine. I would just like to know if I missed something or maybe the actual horn is broken? Anyways any help will be appreciated. Thanks
-Evan

 

You need to resolder all the connections at the relays and the main harness plug regardless of what the joints currently look like. And then resolder all others that look suspect (there will be a lot of them, trust me). Anything that is not a shiny pyramid of solder is bad. If the solder joint curls in where it meets the board, then it is bad. If it is grey instead of silver, it is bad.

General soldering guide at http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/solder.htm

 

Hey thanks, are you saying I need to resolder the connections reguardless of what they look like? Even if their fine? Also on the main harness plug (male end on CPU), should there be a copper tooth that plugs into the wiring harness missing? Sorry for any confusion...

 

don't forget, to re-solder properly you must remove the old solder first with a solder sucker or braid. Just re-heating the joint will only fix the problem temporarly.

 

pull off the steering wheel center piece and check that the wire is being grounded out when you press the horn....for the Tach check the grounds for the Trailing and Lead coils which may need to be clead or reground somewhere else..and the wipers, you switch could be bad...also check all you fuses!!

 

thanks guys the ground for the coils sounds like it could be a culprit. Will try all possibilities...