OmicronS2K

iTrader: (6)

So it just started happening yesterday but during warm starts sometimes the car wont start and i have to push start it.... But it fires up fine during cold starts

Wondering what the possible problems could be.

Thanks

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

..Could be a Bad Coolant sensor at the Back of the water Pump Under the alternator..Really,Check the connection there first.

myfc3s

iTrader: (2)

I would say your Engine is going to give out soon "low compression". Does it happen allot after a run. And when its cold, Morning or Night does it start with no problem.

OmicronS2K

iTrader: (6)

I didn't have a chance to check the sensor today...but will check tomorrow

Sometimes my "low coolant sensor" on the idiot cluster comes up randomly but when i turn the car off and start it again, it will go away.

and also the car shoots up fine on cold start under morning and night. The car has about 104k miles at the moment and is a TII

88Rx-7turboII

iTrader: (2)

Sorry to ressurect but last season I was experiencing the exact same problem, with a t-II with almost identical mileage. Did you end up sorting this issue out? I could get it to start sometimes when warm but most of the time would turn the starter and then kinda die like its choked and just continue to spin the starter. push started fine and ran flawless.

HAILERS

FUEL for starting the engine is controlled as the two jpg attached show.

One turns the key to START.....................power goes to the starter and also the ECU (a little jolt to let it know you want to start the engine). The ECU sees you want to start the engine, so it pulls out its internal fuel map to decide how much fuel to inject. It looks for rpm under 500rpm.........the temperature of the water as seen from the water thermosensor on the back of the water pump. IF the engine is cold, it will inject a lot of fuel. IF the engine is hot.....it injects MUCH less fuel vs being a cold engine.

If the START signal is not seen then then ECU uses the afm for fuel (too little fuel if engine is cold), just the right amount of fuel if the engine is already HOT.

IF the water thermosensor fails or it's plug is off the sensor.......then the ECU defaults to a water temp of 186*.........which means the ECU will send way too little fuel if the engine is cold, BUT just the right amount of fuel if the engine is already hot (186* is about normal engine temp).

Engine starts good hot, but has big time difficulty when the engine is cold.......there is a chance the water thermosensors plug is off or one of its pins is pushed back inside the plug.

OR the sensor might be just fine............but someone had monkey fucked the starters circuit up royally and has bypassed the signal wires that let the ECU know the engine is being started so the ECU won't determine the right amount of fuel. Monky fucked means installing a seperate switch to send power to the starter solenoid and bypassing the relevant wires. Would also mean the circuit opening relay won't pull in when the *switch* is put the start 'cause it ain't getting the start signal.

Cars that flood easily when HOT, can be helped by depinning the wire at 3B on a series four cars ECU. 'course cold starts will NOW be the problem. Fuel cut off switches help with difficult hot starts. See search function for how to.

That's why RTEK2.1 have a function where you can set the amount of fuel for starting the engine at different water temperatures. They use a chart display much like the one in my attached jpgs.

Some of the above made sense to me when I re-read it.