Plus I'm running a group buy on them until the end of the month

 

I wish I had that money. I read about it. But I dont have that money.

About the hoses, I guess I am gonna block them off behind the uim that connect to the stock tmic. Hope it doesnt mess up anything. I believe I read about it in the Haynes Manual Book, that it was a bypass hose...

 

What are people doing if you want to keep both the Air Supply Valve ( 1) and the Air Bypass Solenoid Valve (2), as these are both connected to the TIM in the stock configuration. Where should I plumb these lines when I install the FMIC kit??



Thanks.

 

I think those are the 2 hoses I am asking about??? ANYONE?

 

Both those lines get plumbed the exact same way as stock (as indicated by the FSM). Plumb them to the TID.

 

hahahahhaa am i good or what?

just as i thought the corksport man comes outttt

 

If you are worried, plumb them back into the IC piping. All they are is the Air Supply valve and the AWS. No real loss except when you turn the steering wheel the idle's gonna dip, and on cold starts it wont rev to 3000rpm for ~17 seconds.

 

In other words, we block off those lines, right? What is FSM?

 

So as long as both of them are connected to the intercooler, it wont drop the idle? Just curious. I probably wont run 2 long hoses to the fmic. Or can you just connect it to the fmic piping?

 

Where did I ever say "block off"?

FSM = Factory Service Manual.

The Factory Service Manual can be found in the FAQ For FC thread. It contains all this information and more, and is an essential tool for any sort of service work that needs to be performed on these cars.

Additionally, the Haynes service manual for the 1986 thru 1991 RX-7 (both turbo and NA) can be found at most local auto parts stores or purchased from any good bookstore (ISBN number 1 56392 007 7). It is only about $25 and is a great quick reference for things like this. Not only does it contain most of the information in the FSM condensed into an easy to read format, but it includes full wiring diagrams as well.

These manuals will answer 99% of service related questions for the car and if you intend to do your own repair work, you will need at least one of them. Preferably both, since the FSM is a free download.

 

So what do you mean by plumb those lines? Plugged back into the FMIC when installed? And what is TID?

 

TID = Turbo Inlet Duct.

These and other acronyms are covered in the FAQ.

I honestly don't know any other way to explain it. Look up where those lines go in the FSM or Haynes manual, and then install them in the same place once you've installed the FMIC. The BAC line goes to the TID, as does the ASV line. You'll need to look up what the line #1 in you diagram does as I can't remember.

 

Thanks Aaron.

The hoses are as followed in the above pic : the Air Supply Valve ( 1) and the Air Bypass Solenoid Valve (2).

I will run them to the new IC piping as mentioned.

 

HKS makes a FMIC.
Greddy makes a FMIC.
Corksport makes a FMIC.

Also there is the old Trust FMIC.
Old RE Amemiya FMIC.

And I'm sure there's more. Anyhow, most people just buy an eBay FMIC kit and cut and peice it together for their desired results.

Or buy a bunch of u-bend.

 

are you running the stock ecu and afm?

 

Exhaust shops that can do mandrel bending can make custom pipes out of aluminum.

 

This diagram shows how to plumb your vac lines without emissions, that should answer your question about the boost pressure sensor line.

I dont know what to do about the hose on the BAC though...

 

My piping.

 

So you did away with the bumper support and brake ducts. When i did mine i didnt want to get rid of either for good reason. If you do hard braking or driving those ducts help cool the brakes. I personaly kept my intercooler and piping inside the frame rails. Required some good welding but its something i felt better doing than getting rid of a safety feature and performance feature. I used a Corksport core 24x6x3.5 and it fit perfect up in between the rails. Had to cut the ends off and make my own smooth bends coming out of it but worked good.

To the OP- I would just get a ebay piping kit and some good quailty couplers with t-bolt clamps. If stock turbo i would go with 2 1/4in for better spool over 2.5.

 

Wow just relized this thread is almost 6months old. HAHA

 

Damn connection, double post

 

i dont know whos this is.. but i like how simple it is *thumbs up*



you kinda burn a bridge with cutting the rad support in the front.. but it looks soo clean