WallyHojo

NOT FOR 56<edited>

Well some of you have been asking about it, so a while ago i had some pictures taken by a friend of mine. I've been lazy up to yesterday to make a post about this, so today, before the Seahawks win tomorrow i'm going to fulfill my promise.

I first dynoed my engine at 300HP 267T on a t3/to4 hybrid stage 3 BNR. My 720cc secondaries were giving me problems. I only have rtek 1.5, so It had probelms reading them.

Then i got my car tuned to 275hp and 236T

Once my engine is rebuilt I'm hopeing to get steady 300hp untill i get a standalone.

Well first of all here is a pic of the engine bay. I have a possible chipped apex seal on the rear rotor 80,10,10. Happend, because of bad vent of air throughout the engine bay. Still starts up like a dream, but lose of power.


Here is the turbo side


Image of the engine bay from the side.


Top view of the engine bay.


Front of the car looking up at the rad. You can see the intercooler just above that which says Greddy. Then in your face at the top is the oil cooler.


Zoomed out a little more.


Zoomed out way more.


Just for the hell of it, my turbo.


Ok just right of the sensor is a modified honda strut bar end. It welded onto my core support, which also holds up my intercooler. You will see a better pic in the next image.











Modified intake adapter to bolt 3&quot; piping.


A bar was put in the front to hold the rad. on that end.


Other side


Here are some more photos to get a better idea.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/member...tos&car_id=781

Dom_C

that's a sick *** set up .. shittt

Fcdrift05

dang thats nice

NOPR

what about the hood!? i wanna see the hoood!!! looks good though. is that a stocker turbo or a hybrid or am i stupid and its something aftermarket? the exhaust side just looks stock to me.. but im an idiot.

WallyHojo

The turbo is a hybrid. The exhaust is 3". The hood is what caused my rear rotor to fail. I didnt have a proper vented one.

Oh yea and sorry about the 56k part.

DragonRx7

Badass man. Makes me want to start on mine.

torean

i see u have a koyo unit..can u tell me what exactly did u mod to make it work on the setup....

WallyHojo

Well on the bottom of the rad. as you can see in the last two pics are factory, which is nice. Basically a bar was welded together to support the bottom of the rad. From there just make a braket to bolt it onto the rad. The bottom coolent feed was cut off and fed up around the backside at the same angle as the rad. is. This had to be done because the factory one would have been too close to the ground. Also when your welding try cold welding. If you tig the rad the heat will melt the solder like substance inside the rad.

At the top portion brakets were welded on either side again to support the top portion. The filler wasnt necessary afterwards, but done anyways.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

We turned politically correct all a sudden? (referring to the edited title)

WallyHojo

Yea, i guess i wasnt thinking.

wankel jr.

Brilliant job man, Exactly like my plan for the sev. Cheers for the pictorial view of my imagined engine bay. 9/10 ah yes ducting, if you had some then 10/10

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

After looking at it for a bit, it looks like you would definatly want to add some ducting, there's so many places for air to bypass everything that I can't imagine that working very well how it is. If you had some ducting though it looks like it would work great.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

really nice work man.

could you post the info for the fittings you bought for the oil cooler?

Jager

iTrader: (10)

Clean ride!

I like it alot, it'll be ungodly without that silly AFM.

Dom_C

yea how does the AFM like being at that angle?

torean

u said the non venting hood contributed to ur rear rotor failure?......can u elaborate more?...if u ran the car without proper ducting...im sure the hood isnt the only cause of motor failure.....still, good job on the build.....im still tying to figure out how u mounted everything...btw....get some efans on the IC....

91mazdarx7

that is a nice looking setup but needs some minor adjustments to get max cooling to the ic and rad how much did you pay for the turbo to be made into a stage 3 bnr and how much HP do you hink you could get if your motor and setup were working at its best i am wanting to do a stage 4 bnr on my t2 with a greddy v mount ic setup

WallyHojo

Well the ducting wasn’t a huge problem that contributed to the failure. Because my intercooler sat right below the hood the air had no where to go out. Basically the air immediately hit the hood and swirled its way around the engine bay. I knew this, for sometimes after taking a drive my ic piping was pretty damn warm.

The afm is fine at a slight angle, as long as it isn’t upside down.

My plans of course will be to create some duct for the sides of the rad. up to the intercooler. Put on that heat shield for my turbo that I have. Then get some thermal wrap for my dp. I have a n/a white hood that I’ll be trading someone for my TII hood with some cash. The turbo I bought from rx7store.net. A core charge was involved so I sent in my turbo and 500 bucks to get my stage 3. Then they gave back the 500. Overall I’m really not too happy with BNR just because in order for it to not burn oil like mad you have to restrict the oil lines so much. Sometimes in traffic that turbo makes nice big dark clouds of oil for all the other motorists to smell.

F0RSAKEN

Some thoughts:

First off, nice job, it looks good. Who did the fabb'ing? You? Looks pretty good.

Now on to the possible cause for failure of the rear seal. I dont think it was lack of venting on the hood that caused it. I actually believe it is lack of ducting to your IC/Rad. I know that the FD guys on the 3rd gen section make a big deal over ducting, and say you are risking your motor if you dont run proper ducts. Especially with a V-mount or SMIC, because they both sit in the engine bay, and as such are very susceptable to heat soak (as you noticed with the hot intake pipes). The guys in the 3rd gen section that do not run vented hoods with a V-mount seem to do just fine, I havent seen a problem yet, so again, I believe it was lack of ducting.

Now about the turbo smoking.

I wouldnt suggest restricting oil to it, because you can over heat it and ruin it. Another thing, did it smoke right when you got it? If so did you call RX7Store? Because it doesnt seem to me that it should be doing that. That usually if not always means it has a bad oil seal, and if its as bad as you say, then you run the risk of ruining the turbo anyway, but if it only smokes a little bit, say after fully warmed and at opperating temp. then thats fairly normal.

But yea, pretty sweet man. Get your car rebuilt, so we can race at PIR or something

z-beater

Wally, Looking good. Is the car back up and running now?

I am running a similar setup with a 24"x12"x3" IC. And I must say that it is a trick to fit something that large in there.

Anyhow good luck on the build. You are still coming to ABF right?

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Most hybrids seem to remove the internal restrictor that originaly came on the turbo, turbos like to see between about 30-50psi of pressure, more than that and they start to push oil through to the compressor or turbine (and thus the smoking). Putting in a properly sized restriction can generally cure this with no ill-effects.

F0RSAKEN

Ahh ok, I did not know that, thanks!

WallyHojo

Z I'm really not sure about ABF. If i go I'll probably want to tag along with someone else.