Walbro 255lph on a stock N/A
#1
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Walbro 255lph on a stock N/A
Just curious if it will be ok to put a walbro 255lph fuel pump on a stock n/a S4 and not have any problems driving the car daily? Just curious cuz my friends fuel pump went out and he would rather just get the walbro in preperation for the turbo swap.
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#8
Sharp Claws
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this is true.
think of it like having a garden hose nozzle turned on just a little bit and turn the water on just a little at the faucet, only a little will come out. now crank up the pressure at the faucet and you will see more water pressed through the same opening because the pressure is increasing.
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Sorry to threadjack but while on topic, how much MORE does a Walbro 255 flow than a stock turbo II fuel pump? Mine got swapped by PO and my AFR is on the rich side, but not crazy, was wondering if getting an adjustable FPR would work?
Running 12psi, FCD, stock n370 on a properly converted 1990 GTU with a S4 keg and S5 electronics/intake, streetported, on a 2.5" straight-through exhaust into two magnaflow canisters at the back.
Also maybe you should just spend a little money and buy a stock N/A pump from someone off the board?
Running 12psi, FCD, stock n370 on a properly converted 1990 GTU with a S4 keg and S5 electronics/intake, streetported, on a 2.5" straight-through exhaust into two magnaflow canisters at the back.
Also maybe you should just spend a little money and buy a stock N/A pump from someone off the board?
#11
#FakeCarEnthusaist
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Sorry to threadjack but while on topic, how much MORE does a Walbro 255 flow than a stock turbo II fuel pump? Mine got swapped by PO and my AFR is on the rich side, but not crazy, was wondering if getting an adjustable FPR would work?
Running 12psi, FCD, stock n370 on a properly converted 1990 GTU with a S4 keg and S5 electronics/intake, streetported, on a 2.5" straight-through exhaust into two magnaflow canisters at the back.
Also maybe you should just spend a little money and buy a stock N/A pump from someone off the board?
Running 12psi, FCD, stock n370 on a properly converted 1990 GTU with a S4 keg and S5 electronics/intake, streetported, on a 2.5" straight-through exhaust into two magnaflow canisters at the back.
Also maybe you should just spend a little money and buy a stock N/A pump from someone off the board?
I think the stock TII Fuel pump is somewhere 160-165lph IIRC. Not 100% sure.
If your running rich, I recommend having some sort of EM and getting it a tune.
#12
Livin fo the citaaay!
yea as said before i would only get it in prep for the tII swap...once i put mine on i fell in love with it...however...now that i think of it...it does run a little rich...lolz.
#13
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this is true.
think of it like having a garden hose nozzle turned on just a little bit and turn the water on just a little at the faucet, only a little will come out. now crank up the pressure at the faucet and you will see more water pressed through the same opening because the pressure is increasing.
think of it like having a garden hose nozzle turned on just a little bit and turn the water on just a little at the faucet, only a little will come out. now crank up the pressure at the faucet and you will see more water pressed through the same opening because the pressure is increasing.
#16
Sharp Claws
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a regulator is a restrictor as well, the more pressure there is behind it the less it can control pressure. install a high flow fuel pump and you will see pressure rise just from the additional pressure the pump is pushing.
#17
Top Down, Boost Up
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Here's what a Walbro pump does to fuel pressure on a system using the stock FPR. Atm = atmospheric pressure. I tested this last year when I was troubleshooting mixture issues.
Walbro GSS-341
Idle: 46 psi
Atm: 48 psi
10 lbs. "boost": 54 psi
FD pump
Idle: 34 psi
Atm: 41 psi
10 lbs. "boost": 51 psi
Idle spec alone is roughly 30 psi, so the walbro is jacking the pressure up about 16psi over stock! My idle AFRs went down a full point at idle with the walbro in the car. You can see as the pressure rises, the numbers are closer stock (stock is about 30/40/50 psi in this case). Under boost this can be fine, but when it comes to idle and low throttle situations, the walbro just flows way too much for the FPR. In other words, this is not NA engine friendly at all.
Walbro GSS-341
Idle: 46 psi
Atm: 48 psi
10 lbs. "boost": 54 psi
FD pump
Idle: 34 psi
Atm: 41 psi
10 lbs. "boost": 51 psi
Idle spec alone is roughly 30 psi, so the walbro is jacking the pressure up about 16psi over stock! My idle AFRs went down a full point at idle with the walbro in the car. You can see as the pressure rises, the numbers are closer stock (stock is about 30/40/50 psi in this case). Under boost this can be fine, but when it comes to idle and low throttle situations, the walbro just flows way too much for the FPR. In other words, this is not NA engine friendly at all.
#18
Trunk Ornament
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The walbro pump is badass, but it won't save you from leaning out if you crank up the pressure. At 10psi on my STOCK TII engine with STOCK fuel injectors, it creeps dangerously into the 13.. dare I say 14 AFR range. This is why I had to port the wastegate. It's free and I didn't have the money to fork out for larger secondaries at the time.
Just to clarify, the fuel pressure regulator restricts the fuel after the injectors, so on the RETURN side. So in essence, it restricts the amount of fuel making it back to the fuel tank. At idle, it should have the most vacuum, so it'll open the FPR up more, and allow more fuel to return to the gas tank. At WOT, it should have 0 vacuum (NA) or pressure (turbo). Therefore, the FPR closes, allows less fuel to get back to the fuel tank, and more makes it through the injectors. Like the Karack's explanation about the garden hose, it can be related to the FPR as well. More pressure, same restriction for both the injectors AND FPR. So, you'll have higher fuel pressure at ALL times, and much more fuel cramming itself through your injectors, causing (as stated before) worse gas mileage, crappy performance, and more carbon.
And getting an adjustable FPR will not help. So far as I know, there isn't one that can actually lower pressure. I tried it on my NA, and went right back to the stock fuel pump, and held on to the walbro until I got the TII drivetrain.
Just to clarify, the fuel pressure regulator restricts the fuel after the injectors, so on the RETURN side. So in essence, it restricts the amount of fuel making it back to the fuel tank. At idle, it should have the most vacuum, so it'll open the FPR up more, and allow more fuel to return to the gas tank. At WOT, it should have 0 vacuum (NA) or pressure (turbo). Therefore, the FPR closes, allows less fuel to get back to the fuel tank, and more makes it through the injectors. Like the Karack's explanation about the garden hose, it can be related to the FPR as well. More pressure, same restriction for both the injectors AND FPR. So, you'll have higher fuel pressure at ALL times, and much more fuel cramming itself through your injectors, causing (as stated before) worse gas mileage, crappy performance, and more carbon.
And getting an adjustable FPR will not help. So far as I know, there isn't one that can actually lower pressure. I tried it on my NA, and went right back to the stock fuel pump, and held on to the walbro until I got the TII drivetrain.
#20
Sharp Claws
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The walbro pump is badass, but it won't save you from leaning out if you crank up the pressure. At 10psi on my STOCK TII engine with STOCK fuel injectors, it creeps dangerously into the 13.. dare I say 14 AFR range. This is why I had to port the wastegate. It's free and I didn't have the money to fork out for larger secondaries at the time.
simply adding a pump to a near stock car isn't going to miraculously allow it to run safely at 14PSI on the stock fuel maps, the car isn't even meant to see 10PSI, that is why it has a boost cut built in.
#22
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The stock FPR runs rich with the Walbro because it cannot bypass enough fuel to keep the pressure down. An aftermarket regulator, assuming it is sized properly, does not have this limitation and will easily be able to keep the fuel pressure at a stock level with a Walbro or any other large pump.
#23
Sharp Claws
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You're about to know further...
The stock FPR runs rich with the Walbro because it cannot bypass enough fuel to keep the pressure down. An aftermarket regulator, assuming it is sized properly, does not have this limitation and will easily be able to keep the fuel pressure at a stock level with a Walbro or any other large pump.
The stock FPR runs rich with the Walbro because it cannot bypass enough fuel to keep the pressure down. An aftermarket regulator, assuming it is sized properly, does not have this limitation and will easily be able to keep the fuel pressure at a stock level with a Walbro or any other large pump.
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So you could leave the stock fpr installed and disconnect it and then use an external aftermarket to keep the pressure in check? What is the pressure I am want to stay at?
#25
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If you leave the stock fpr in place (adding the aftermarket fpr in the plumbing after the stock fpr) you will still have the rich idle and low speed issues. Listen to what Aaron said and what I said earlier in the thread: the stock fpr cannot handle the extra volume pumped by the Walbro . It doesn't matter how low you set the aftermarket fpr if the oem fpr is still in the fuel circuit.