Dont know about the US, but over here the "stock" Mazda oil is the Divinol Turbo 20W-50. Same bottle, same price...

 

Castrol 20W50...never a dull moment...

 

i use valvoline vr1 20/50 racing oil..

 

Castrol Syntec the 20/50 Blend (grey bottle) ... not full synthetic, part synthetic. I have great success with this oil in my bike & both my RX's. My theroy is it will burn better than the full synthetics, but still it will give you some of the benifits of the synthetic oil. I change on every 3000 or less. Its also a little cheaper than the full synthetic. $2.50~ a quart around here.

 

I would use Mazola too, but it doesn't have the needed viscosity improvers, antifoam additives, and detergents.
Vegetable oils are excellent lubricants, are better than most dino oils, and 'performance wise' are comparable to synthetics without the toxicity of the current oils we all use.
Maybe one day when the country isn't ruled by oil corporations, we'll all use vegetable oil with the needed additives............

If anyone can locate the AMG2000, let me know where and how much.
http://www.kiowacountygrowers.com/whatisit.htm
http://www.agromgt.com/online%20files/synopsis1a.htm
http://www.discover.com/august_issue/breakoil.html
http://www.unitedsoybean.org/feedstocks_pdf/fs9807.pdf

 

Dead: Interesting, I called our local Alternative Fuel distributor and he hadn't heard of it. He also can't carry it, due to his contract with CONOCO(his supplier of BioDiesel)

 

I have used Pennzoil for the past three oil changes, ( I am a new owner), but I think I like castrol. I used the pennziol because there was a special on it at Kragen. I am switching back to castrol now.

 

'89TII-Any oil that has the highest rating eg SJ.
When I first purchsed the car in March 1989 I used an oil rated for both gas & diesel. After 3 years went to any brand. 156,000-new motor just installed by KD-Cracked seal.

 

For all of you Castrol users, the dino juice Castrol is well accepted as a very good petrol oil. As good as anything you can buy. Great if you keep the OMP. As for synthetics, Castrol may not be worth the money. Fairly recently, Mobil sued Castrol for advertising as claiming to be fully synthetic but in reality they are not. Guess Mobil did the checking on this. Since this was not news to most of us and we are not sure who to believe on this subject, I think the extra money spent on Castrol may not be worth it. I am only sure of three oils that are fully synthetic, Amsoil, Red Line and Mobil 1. Red Line being most racers choice if they do not have an oil sponser. I am sure there are more (Penzoil, Quaker State, Royal Purple, bla bla bla) but I don't know for sure. I do know that Red Line is my choice as premix and engine oil because of their excellent reputation and track record. It is expensive but my car is not a daily driver. Since you always get what you pay for, my expensive engine gets expensive oil which I believe is cheap insurance.

 

Biodiesel(B100) is an excellent solvent.
For anyone who rebuilds engines or has a parts washer, biodiesel can be used in place of all those toxic chemicals. It won't cause future health issues if accidently spilled or inhaled. And, it can be spilled in the yard or dumped down the drain. It will break down quickly. Biodiesel solvent is a product that big chemical companies don't want us to know about. They would rather have us buy toxic solvents, brake parts cleaner, carb/intake cleaner, distillates, etc....
It may also be labelled as biosolvent, or methyl/ethyl esters depending on area.

Is there anyone in/near "Eads Colorado" who can help me locate a source for this motor oil? My RX-7 wants to be an enviro guinea pig. I want a couple cases and not a 55gallon drum(for now).
http://www.kiowacountygrowers.com/amg2000.htm

 

I have and always will use Castrol GTX 10w30. I was thinking of running 20w50 but couldn't really see much benefit from doing that, at least not in our climate.

I also hear that it is better for the seals to use the same oil on them all the time. (Brand / Weight ). (Fact or Myth? Who knows, makes sense though.)

 

Where can I get this adapter?

 

C gtx 20w-50

 

Check it out here:
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm

BTW, I'm not running it any more. When I installed the 20B, I went to straight premix... but I never had a problem with it, and I may go back to using it if the premix becomes a hassle.

 

whats wrong with quaker state? should i take back the 5 quarts i just bought and get something else...

 

so nothing wrong with quaker state or what?

 

I use Mobil 1 full synth in my engine, both sump and OMP. This is on the advice of Rice Racing, who tuned my engine.

 

I was under the impression that Synthetic oil was bad in a rotary engine ...is this true ?

 

What da you guys think about 10W60? I have heaps of Agip with me and planning to use it.

 

There is a big debate about this: Some sources say that synthetic does not burn as clean as regular motor oil (ie leaves more deposits) and possibly attacks the side seals.

Others say that its just fine, since regular oil leaves deposits as well.

Now, if you have removed your OMP and injectors, then you are no longer injecting motor oil into the engine. Now the pre-mix takes care of the internal lubrication of the seals. Then I personally would (and do) use synthetic. It dissipates heat better and provides better lubrication.

 

ok, why the HELL do you not have the best oil on the market listed in the poll? Valvoline Vr1 racing 20w50

 

 

The valvoline iV1 racing oil is realy good but the price it high. I recomend Swepco Motor oil

 

 

I have been using castrol 20w-50.

But someone told me i should try Kendall Gt-1 20w-50, This guy said you can't burn this oil for some reason, He told me alot of race guys use it in there engines but he hasn't tried it in a rotary, has anyone every tried it.

http://www.kendallmotoroil.com/produ...s/default.html