videos of my turboII running (just got it running) a couple questions
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Nashville, TN
videos of my turboII running (just got it running) a couple questions
http://68.224.178.194/hlh0501/host/jacob%20cartmill/
click the directory, then right click and save as.
does my jspec sound ported? its running a little rough but it sounds a little different. its running open downpipe so its gonna be rough, it just sounds different than i think it should. anyone have any input?
click the directory, then right click and save as.
does my jspec sound ported? its running a little rough but it sounds a little different. its running open downpipe so its gonna be rough, it just sounds different than i think it should. anyone have any input?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,387
Likes: 4
From: Nashville, TN
i'm scared to rev it to redline. and i live in a snobbyass neighborhood so my neighbors will get really pissed.
ALSO: the ecu throws a check engine light if i go above 0psi... its a turboII ecu. 374
ALSO: the ecu throws a check engine light if i go above 0psi... its a turboII ecu. 374
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 659
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From: Delaware
Nice car! Screw the neighbors! anyway u mean if u boost at all u get a check engine light? Can u get the code? Check out this site for info about pulling codes: Team FC3S - Reading RX7 86-88 ECU codes . Do u notice any other issues when boosting though? Do you have a boost controller installed? Good luck!
-Josh
-Josh
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,387
Likes: 4
From: Nashville, TN
well i'm running open downpipe and a 3" TID, so i can only part throttle it (have to keep the boost down)
yes it cuts out if i get too much into boost (over 2-3 psi) the CEL is off when i start the car and only comes on if i get above 0psi. its almost like its an NA ECU... but it says n374 on it.
also, my car is a series5, not a series4 (the codes are different)
no boost controller
yes it cuts out if i get too much into boost (over 2-3 psi) the CEL is off when i start the car and only comes on if i get above 0psi. its almost like its an NA ECU... but it says n374 on it.
also, my car is a series5, not a series4 (the codes are different)
no boost controller
Last edited by jacobcartmill; Jan 14, 2004 at 06:07 PM.
#1 Certified Cone Killer
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Battle Creek, MI
it doesn't sound like a ported motor. Sounds the same as mine when my exhaust was rusted before the catalytic converter. (don't mean that as an insult, it just sounds more open). I doubt its ported. can't help you with the check engine light. sorry.
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anyone know anything else about this pressure sensor stuff?
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 659
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From: Delaware
I found this on some site:
Give that a try, then we will go from there to figure out why you can't boost. Im gonna take a guess from the above list and say 44. We will see if im right 
! Good luck and we will get u boosting again!
TO CHECK THE ECU CODES ON A 1988 - 1991 RX7
If your check engine light is coming on at idle you need to find out what it is telling you.
To do so for RX-7's from 1988 on, (with the engine off but fully warmed up) find the single green wire in the wiring harness just in front of the left front suspension tower, near the front ignition coil.
Ground the connector on this wire (the wire will be hanging free, without its connector hooked to another wire) on the chassis, using a jumper wire, etc.
Sit in the car and turn the ignition switch on WITHOUT STARTING THE CAR. Immediately watch the check engine light. If everything is OK, it will not light. If it starts flashing, count the flashes. It may stop flashing for a couple of seconds, then start again. Each of those series of flashes is for a separate engine fault code. Multiple codes will display in order from low number to high.
Have a paper and pen handy, and write them all down. To check again, turn the ignition off and then back on. It will repeat the cycle.
Identify the first (tens) and second (ones) digits of each code as follows: The first (tens) digit will display (flash) for about one second for each count, with a one-half second pause between counts. For example, if the first (tens) digit is three, there will be three separate one second long flashes, separated between by one-half second pauses.
There is then a 1.6 second pause between the last flash of the first digit and the beginning of the second (ones) digit.
The second (ones) digit counts flash for only one-half second each, with pauses of one-half second between them. For example, if the second (ones) digit is seven, then there will be seven flashes of one-half second, separated by pauses of one-half second.
In this example, the displayed code will thus be "37".
The system will then pause for four seconds before proceeding to the next code, if any.
To clear the stored codes from memory, disconnect the negative battery cable, then wait for 5 seconds. It is useful to do so even when you have just retrieved the codes, but not fixed anything yet, to be certain the codes (problems) persist. Stored codes could represent several different problems that have arisen at different times. Just drive the car a bit, and see which codes persist.
Obviously, once things are fixed, you need to clear the codes a final time to be certain it is in fact fixed, and to know that any new stored codes have occured after the fix.
Mazda RX-7 codes (from Haynes Computer Codes Manual #10205) are as follows:
1 Ignition coil (trailing side)
2 Crank position NE sensor
3 Crank position G sensor
5 Knock sensor
8 Airflow meter (AFM)
9 Water thermosensor
10 Intake air thermosensor (AFM)
11 Intake air thermosensor (engine)
12 Throttle sensor - full range
13 Pressure sensor - intake manifold
14 Atmospheric pressure sensor (built in ECU)
15 oxygen sensor
17 Feedback system for O2 sensor
18 Throttle sensor - narrow range
20 Metering oil pump position sensor
23 Fuel thermosensor
25 Solenoid valve - pressure regulator control
26 metering oil pump stepper motor
27 Metering oil pump
28 Solenoid valve - EGR
29 Solenoid valve - EGR vent
30 Solenoid valve - split air bypass
31 solenoid valve - relief 1
32 Solenoid valve - switching
33 Solenoid valve - port air bypass
34 Solenoid valve -idle speed control (BAC)
37 Metering oil pump
38 Solenoid valve - accelerated warmup system and air supply valve
39 Solenoid valve - relief 2
40 Solenoid valve - purge control (auxilary port valve)
41 Solenoid valve - variable dynamic effect intake (VDI)
42 Solenoid valve - turbo precontrol
43 Solenoid valve - wastegate control
44 Solenoid valve - turbo control
45 Solenoid valve - charge control
46 Solenoid valve - charge relief control
50 Solenoid valve - double throttle control
51 Fuel pump relay
54 Air pump relay
65 Air conditioning signal
71 Injector - front secondary
73 Injector - rear secondary
76 Slip lockup signal
77 Torque reduced signal
Use the codes to direct you in fixing the car. Also remember that disconnected hoses, misrouted vacuum lines, or internal engine problems can be present without causing a code.
If your check engine light is coming on at idle you need to find out what it is telling you.
To do so for RX-7's from 1988 on, (with the engine off but fully warmed up) find the single green wire in the wiring harness just in front of the left front suspension tower, near the front ignition coil.
Ground the connector on this wire (the wire will be hanging free, without its connector hooked to another wire) on the chassis, using a jumper wire, etc.
Sit in the car and turn the ignition switch on WITHOUT STARTING THE CAR. Immediately watch the check engine light. If everything is OK, it will not light. If it starts flashing, count the flashes. It may stop flashing for a couple of seconds, then start again. Each of those series of flashes is for a separate engine fault code. Multiple codes will display in order from low number to high.
Have a paper and pen handy, and write them all down. To check again, turn the ignition off and then back on. It will repeat the cycle.
Identify the first (tens) and second (ones) digits of each code as follows: The first (tens) digit will display (flash) for about one second for each count, with a one-half second pause between counts. For example, if the first (tens) digit is three, there will be three separate one second long flashes, separated between by one-half second pauses.
There is then a 1.6 second pause between the last flash of the first digit and the beginning of the second (ones) digit.
The second (ones) digit counts flash for only one-half second each, with pauses of one-half second between them. For example, if the second (ones) digit is seven, then there will be seven flashes of one-half second, separated by pauses of one-half second.
In this example, the displayed code will thus be "37".
The system will then pause for four seconds before proceeding to the next code, if any.
To clear the stored codes from memory, disconnect the negative battery cable, then wait for 5 seconds. It is useful to do so even when you have just retrieved the codes, but not fixed anything yet, to be certain the codes (problems) persist. Stored codes could represent several different problems that have arisen at different times. Just drive the car a bit, and see which codes persist.
Obviously, once things are fixed, you need to clear the codes a final time to be certain it is in fact fixed, and to know that any new stored codes have occured after the fix.
Mazda RX-7 codes (from Haynes Computer Codes Manual #10205) are as follows:
1 Ignition coil (trailing side)
2 Crank position NE sensor
3 Crank position G sensor
5 Knock sensor
8 Airflow meter (AFM)
9 Water thermosensor
10 Intake air thermosensor (AFM)
11 Intake air thermosensor (engine)
12 Throttle sensor - full range
13 Pressure sensor - intake manifold
14 Atmospheric pressure sensor (built in ECU)
15 oxygen sensor
17 Feedback system for O2 sensor
18 Throttle sensor - narrow range
20 Metering oil pump position sensor
23 Fuel thermosensor
25 Solenoid valve - pressure regulator control
26 metering oil pump stepper motor
27 Metering oil pump
28 Solenoid valve - EGR
29 Solenoid valve - EGR vent
30 Solenoid valve - split air bypass
31 solenoid valve - relief 1
32 Solenoid valve - switching
33 Solenoid valve - port air bypass
34 Solenoid valve -idle speed control (BAC)
37 Metering oil pump
38 Solenoid valve - accelerated warmup system and air supply valve
39 Solenoid valve - relief 2
40 Solenoid valve - purge control (auxilary port valve)
41 Solenoid valve - variable dynamic effect intake (VDI)
42 Solenoid valve - turbo precontrol
43 Solenoid valve - wastegate control
44 Solenoid valve - turbo control
45 Solenoid valve - charge control
46 Solenoid valve - charge relief control
50 Solenoid valve - double throttle control
51 Fuel pump relay
54 Air pump relay
65 Air conditioning signal
71 Injector - front secondary
73 Injector - rear secondary
76 Slip lockup signal
77 Torque reduced signal
Use the codes to direct you in fixing the car. Also remember that disconnected hoses, misrouted vacuum lines, or internal engine problems can be present without causing a code.
! Good luck and we will get u boosting again!
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,387
Likes: 4
From: Nashville, TN
all #44 does is raise the boost from 6-8 psi right? i thought that was the boost control solenoid.
i will be above 8 lbs so i dont need that.. am i right? also, why would that prevent my car from boosting?
dude i havent even heard of half that stuff 28-50
i will be above 8 lbs so i dont need that.. am i right? also, why would that prevent my car from boosting?
dude i havent even heard of half that stuff 28-50
Last edited by jacobcartmill; Jan 14, 2004 at 09:07 PM.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
Jacob...are you still running the stock s5 NA pressure sensor (n350/351)? IF so, that is your problem. It won't blow you up or anything, but it will cause the CEL.
IF you are running an n37x series boost sensor, then you have another problem, or a bad sensor/wire.
IF you are running an n37x series boost sensor, then you have another problem, or a bad sensor/wire.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,387
Likes: 4
From: Nashville, TN
Originally posted by RotaryResurrection
Jacob...are you still running the stock s5 NA pressure sensor (n350/351)? IF so, that is your problem. It won't blow you up or anything, but it will cause the CEL.
IF you are running an n37x series boost sensor, then you have another problem, or a bad sensor/wire.
Jacob...are you still running the stock s5 NA pressure sensor (n350/351)? IF so, that is your problem. It won't blow you up or anything, but it will cause the CEL.
IF you are running an n37x series boost sensor, then you have another problem, or a bad sensor/wire.
i dont have the reducer pill in the boost sensor vac line, could that do anything?
Last edited by jacobcartmill; Jan 15, 2004 at 01:43 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,387
Likes: 4
From: Nashville, TN
when the check engine light comes on, i go check it and its like 6 codes for missing things (all of which are plugged in)
its like i hit boost, the ecu takes a **** and throws 10 codes (like OMP, AFM, o2 sensor, TPS, etc.) which are all obviously there. i am baffled.
i will check out the pressure sensor tomorrow. i have reason to believe the pressure sensor is the culprit... why else would the light only come on above 0psi?
its like i hit boost, the ecu takes a **** and throws 10 codes (like OMP, AFM, o2 sensor, TPS, etc.) which are all obviously there. i am baffled.
i will check out the pressure sensor tomorrow. i have reason to believe the pressure sensor is the culprit... why else would the light only come on above 0psi?
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
IT is possible you have an injector not working...it will cause a similar sensation. Also possible is a bad TPS, or bad OMP, all of which will make the car cut out and run at about 1/2 power. This kinda **** takes experimentation my man, how do you think I learned?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,387
Likes: 4
From: Nashville, TN
the car seems to have full power; i was part throttling it (trying to keep it under 5psi) and took it to about 6k rpms and it pulled good. no hesitations, no jerks, no nothing..
its just that ****** idle and that CEL when i get into boost.
edit: also, would running open downpipe make the idle seem to be that rough? maybe it will smooth when i put my exhaust on monday?
its just that ****** idle and that CEL when i get into boost.
edit: also, would running open downpipe make the idle seem to be that rough? maybe it will smooth when i put my exhaust on monday?
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,228
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From: Darwin, NT, Australia
Originally posted by jacobcartmill
edit: also, would running open downpipe make the idle seem to be that rough? maybe it will smooth when i put my exhaust on monday?
edit: also, would running open downpipe make the idle seem to be that rough? maybe it will smooth when i put my exhaust on monday?
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,598
Likes: 10
From: Temple, Texas (Central)
Originally posted by White_FC
No, not at all, even having no exhaust manifold at all with not change the idle at all.
No, not at all, even having no exhaust manifold at all with not change the idle at all.
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Darwin, NT, Australia
Originally posted by Sideways7
Seriously? I always thought that a rough idle was due to pressure fluctuations causing the ecu, or whatever, to adjust idle speed (I think thats right, but I may have botched something up) Wouldnt no manifold cause that to happen, or is it just longer intake/exhasut duration that causes it?
Seriously? I always thought that a rough idle was due to pressure fluctuations causing the ecu, or whatever, to adjust idle speed (I think thats right, but I may have botched something up) Wouldnt no manifold cause that to happen, or is it just longer intake/exhasut duration that causes it?
With either the stock ECU or aftermarket.
#1 Certified Cone Killer
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 936
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From: Battle Creek, MI
um, when I had exhaust that was rusted all over the place including up in front of the cats, the idle was rough and you could hear it backfire and such. As soon as I had new exhaust put on, the idle became smooth. Maybe my car is different, but from my experience, the exhuast will change the stability of the idle. The car used to shake back and forth 
