NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

good goood....that makes sense to me.

I'll check that out but look at what I found when searching for leaks. I used compressed air to find the leaks, i fitted a previous mayo jar into an adapter for the intake and the fitting for the air line, the jar has a perfect 3" ID opening at it's mouth with accepts the 3"OD adapter of the Mass Air Flow, I just fitted a nozzle int he rear of the jar and whalla, a wierd looking pressure thingy. But anyways it allowed me to force aie into the system and listen for leaks:



So I'm gonna find a new TID and then we'll continue to refine the idle and I'll check if the Thermowax is getting a good flow of hot coolant. But where can i get one/ make one for less than $174 from mazdatrix?

This has at least allowed me to drive it around my driveway and move it to be washed and cared for better.

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

so i just bought an ebay kit with some crap in it, we'll see if it'll work, looks like it has the tiny fitting for the only line i need off off it and it looks like the coupler will fit the turbo...maybe, is it safe to use a couple like that to go right on the turbo?

I think i can just run the mass air flow right in line with this kit.



Like this:

scrip7

iTrader: (6)

Believe it ot not, that little crack can make a noticeable difference, not only at idle but on accel. Good job!...Also, while you have the intake tract pressurized, you can spray a soap and water solution all over the hoses and manifold flanges and look for bubbles. It's an old-fashioned way, but whatever works, right?

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

yeah I'm hoping to make a noticeable change in the idle with eliminating that cracked up old TID. When I pressurized it, you could feel the air leaking out at a good pace so I am sure this affects the idle..I also had a plug in the old TID where the old stock blow off valve would plumb back in and that wasn't really the most air tight plug either, I found the just pushing down on the plug would cause the idle to change, this whole TID was leaky...maybe now it will be less poppy and more consistent.

TeamRSK

Wow is all i got to say on all the info on here and i am going to be trying alot of it. i have only goten to page 3 but my car 89 NA is doing same thing. Your car is sounding alot better now grats.

TurboMazdaSpeed

find a friend with a rx7 that dosent have that issue.. swap the bac valves and see if thats the problem! hope you guys can find it out, and mine started doing that bouncing idle ALOT once i installed a modded throttle body + pinnaple racing sleeves

kimxxda1

aww you shouldve made a tid from home depot!!! anyways this is such a great thread im going through the EXACT SAME THING =P cept im not that far lol idle still poopy

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

yeah i know I could have piced it together from HD but this kit and coupler's was cheap and I'm hoping it will work well, and at least it will look better than PVC or ABS plumbing parts, but hey if it doesn't work then it's always an option.

I'm just suprised to find that the stock intake tube is almost $200 from mazdatrix, though I found two reall nice looking used ducts on here for cheap as well, I just wanted this kit because the duct only had the one hole I need in it so I don't have to plug anything.

Good luck with your car.

imloggedin

always check for leaks first. its so easy with compressed air, why not. ummmph. good info put out tho.

thats a pretty big crack

scrip7

iTrader: (6)

Updates?

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

Okay,

Sorry I have been absent for a while, I left for the Bonnaroo Music and Arts Festival in Manchester, TN last Wednesday and just got back yesterday. WOW!! What a time, what a time.....if you haven't gone you gotta go next year.....


But anyways, when i arrived home I was pleased to find the intake kit and the extra coupler i had ordered had arrived. So I took the time to install:




Everything went pretty much as i expected, there were some snags along the way, like the fact that the whole intake thing almost didn't even fit in the car, I had to use the shortest filter I had instead of the new filter element, also I had to rearrange some electronic things in the engine bay by the filter, the one thing with what looks like an amp on the back was moved from the front to the side where there was previously another little silver thing that was moved next to the wiper fluid fill neck. In the pic I think you can only see the bigger thing that was relocated to the side to allow the filter to fit. I also had to reroute the big black tubing for that air exhaust pipe w/ the silencer on it, I just cut it to make it shorter and routed it as low as i could go to give me clearance for the intake ducting.

I wasn't sure about what the little hose that connects from under the air pump was but when I replaced it with the blue hose I fitted the stock bleeder valve or whatever in the new setup as well.

I would like to be able to remove the mass air flow unit, hopefully soon the Rtek7 2.0 will allow for that, until then I might just trim 1" off the straight part of the duct to give me better clearance and allow me to run the new filter as well. Will that coupler be okay on the turbo, it was soft after 15mins of idling on there, will it melt, it's the one they sent with the kit but it was a cheap kit??


Overall, an even better idle, I had to readjust the BAC and the fast Idle cam adjust screw to get my idle a little cleaner, now its right around 850 and smoother than ever, but I still have a little popping every once in a while. The variable resitior is now all the way to Rich as well, and I think I seems to pop more when given gas, more leaks I guess?? I'll make a new video this morning, I'm still on vacation until tomorrow.

Thanks for the interest everyone.

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

also I think I'm going to remove the UIM again and see if I can't clean the collant passages to the thermowax or something.

We've established that it isn't operating correctly right? Whether it's do to poor coolant flow or it's physically broken we're not sure yet, so I'm gonna look and see what i can't find out as to why it's not releasing fully. How long is it supposed to take the wax to melt and the roller to fully separate from the cam? It seems like a takes 10 minutes for the thermowax to budge on mine, the gap between the throttle stop screw and the tab is noticeable when the engine is cold and it idles a bit higher (1200) but as it warms up the gap disappears and the idle comes down to 800rpms.

Just lifting up on the cam adjust screw makes the idle drop down, and the screw is still all the way to the right pretty much....

It's like 90% there, but what can we do to "fix it for good"??

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

here's the new video, pretty good i think:

scrip7

iTrader: (6)

Much better idle. Grab the propane and crack it open a little at a time at the cone filter. More popping, too rich. Less popping, too lean and then you'll need to put a hose on your torch and narrow down your search for leaks. As for the thermowax, try the backwards approach. Run the engine until it's fully warmed up, shut it off, and adjust the fast idle cam plunger screw until the cam is off the roller and let the engine cool overnight to see if the t-wax is capable of placing the cam on a fast idle step, hopefully at least the first mark on the cam. If it's on or near a mark, then adjust the fast idle speed screw to give you whatever fast idle speed you want at startup. I prefer 1800 or so. Just make sure the t-wax moves the cam off the roller when it's fully warmed up. Update me then, and we'll go from there.

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

okay, sounds good. How long is it supposed to idle high for before it kicks down?

scrip7

iTrader: (6)

Just as a reference, the pic of the t-wax plunger screw is on post #81.
The pics of the speed screw are on posts 87 and 88, in case you forgot which screw was which. We can verify hot coolant flow by using my post #134.

scrip7

iTrader: (6)

As far as how fast it should kick down, I start mine up in the morning (70 degrees lately) and let it run about 20 seconds and drive off. It's usually at around 1800 rpm then. I drive it mildly until it reaches normal operating temp, and usually after about 7 minutes of mild driving it's fully warmed up and on low idle of 750 rpm. Mine idles so smoothly that you can barely feel it, with no popping.

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

right right....... I'm gonna work on this and get back to ya, thanks again..

FD3Smaniac

iTrader: (3)

what kinda filter is that, and where do u buy your couplers?

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

That's an ebay filter, cheapo for now to get by, like $15.......

The one coupler that attaches to the actual turbo(2.5" x 3") came with the intake piping but I ordered the 3" x 3" coupler off of ebay again for $6......

FD3Smaniac

iTrader: (3)

have you ever used siliconeintakes.com, thier stuff looks great, im just looking for people that have dealt with them... oh and i gotta sayt thank you, i couldnt figure out my problem on my turbocharged NA and why it was idling wierd and stalling, but thanks to your post i decided to check the rubbers in the IC piping and found a massive rip that i can fit my thumb through

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

Look at that huh.....well I haven't that site before but give it a whirl I guess, I just bought the cheapest crap for a temporary fix. I'd also like to find out what most people are using for these couplers and how they hold up to the heat and age....


I'm glad that you were able to get some use out of this thread. Actually a number of people have already mentioned being helped by this. Good, hope you get everything fixed up and running well.

teezlr

After removing my emissions equipment I have the EXACT same problem as you did. My car mine as well been the one in the video because the symptoms were identicle. After reading this whole thread and taking the intercooler off at least 20 times I fixed the problem! Thanks guys for all the input! This should be a sticky for any idle issue!

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

I'm glad you found this to be of use too....

We've been getting alot of positive responses to this thread. Maybe worth a sticky after all???

Scrip7 and Hailers made it possible, I just had the follow through.

My idle is no longer a concern, it starts out at like 1400 for a couple minutes until the thermowax melts and then she drops down to 750....I still need to determine why it takes longer for the thermowax to heat up than the rest of the engine. My coolant temp is 180* and my thermowax is still cool, so I probably have the line kinked under the throttlebody or it's just plugged up.. I'll post once I know why.

scrip7

iTrader: (6)

I am currently writing articles on the Global Vicinity site that specifically address idle concerns, whether it be a rough idle/ stalling, high idle, rollercoaster idle or whatever, including pics. These are the most common concerns among 2nd and 3rd gen owners around the globe. I have had no response from mods on this site, so perhaps I can reach more people on other sites. Hailers also makes good points and observations, and has a similar willingness to help others.

GreenBudd, as for your t-wax, one of 2 things likely is happening. Either you aren't getting enough flow of hot coolant to it so it can operate properly, or just enough wax has leaked from it over time that it's range of operation has narrowed, perhaps limiting it's length of stroke, affecting the position of the fast idle cam.

Let's address the coolant issue by understanding the flow direction. Coolant flows from the rear iron port to the t-wax/ throttle body, then on to the BAC, then to the water pump return. Any of the coolant hose nipples can develop a buildup inside them, whether it is rust, corrosion, calcium, lime or whatever, restricting flow much like plaque buildup inside an artery. I would take a "backwards approach" to this. I would be interested in how much flow of coolant comes out of the hose at the water pump return port at various engine speeds, especially at idle. If low flow, remove the coolant outlet hose at the BAC, then the inlet hose at the BAC, then at the throttle body nipples, then at the rear iron, "backtracking" until you find a restricted port. Make sense?

If we can confirm sufficient hot coolant flow to the t-wax, and the fast idle cam still doesn't have full range of motion vs. temp, we can assume that enough wax has leaked out to limit stroke length and replacement would then be necessary. As I said earlier, I have an extra t-wax I can send you, just pay the shipping and it's all yours, probably around 4 or 5 bucks. Let me know.