2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

VIDEO - Oil fill neck smoking, running on one rotor

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Old Dec 5, 2012 | 10:34 AM
  #26  
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^accurate
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Old Dec 6, 2012 | 03:16 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by mothdawg
Just want to make sure that when I replace the center iron, and throw everything back together, the same thing won't happen again so long as I fix my water leaking problem. I got a brand new waterpump from Mazda and new o-rings for the intake water passages already, so I won't be having any more water or overheating issues.

I don't really see how else that could have happened. Just would like some confirmation on my guess.
Can someone else help me out with some other opinions? I am not going to put this motor back together unless I'm sure this won't happen again.

Originally Posted by silverfdturbo6port
Lets see pics of all your bearings. I have seen a motor walk a bearing and cause the rotor to rub against the iron causing this exact problem.
Can you explain what you mean a little more? I'm sorta confused haha
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Old Dec 7, 2012 | 08:12 PM
  #28  
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I would suggest, when putting a rebuild together, getting a new water pump while you're at it, also new O-rings, new almost anything when putting new parts in.
I'm sure you know this now, damn man! cracks! thats nuts, thank god I put in my koyo :3

Gosh, this is a nightmare, I am going to be keeping an eye on my gauges till the day I die.
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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 12:34 AM
  #29  
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I don't think water lead to this.i have only seen this type of damages on engines due to lack of oil lubrication.take your oil pump off and spec it out,also how are the bearings on both stationary gears and rotors.
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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 12:42 AM
  #30  
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From: EL SERENO
And by the looks of it rear and middle iron are trash including rotors,and don't reuse the same oil control rings as those probably got trashed while rubbing against that rear and mid iron.
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Old Dec 8, 2012 | 11:10 AM
  #31  
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Yeah I am using a new rotor and irons. Will check the oil pump
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 02:48 PM
  #32  
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Discovered what I believe may have been the problem..Upon removing the oil pressure regulator cap, the plunger was not there. Somehow it didn't get replaced upon reassembly. So oil returning from the cooler was basically able to just bypass the oil pump I believe. I don't know much about how the oil pump and oil control valve works so most of what I just wrote is only deduction, but it seems to me based on that that I would lose tons of oil pressure and circulation with that plunger not there, which could easily have caused the cracking.
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Old Dec 14, 2012 | 11:19 PM
  #33  
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Did it have normal oil pressure readings?
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Old Dec 15, 2012 | 12:08 AM
  #34  
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my oil pressure gauge wasn't hooked up. wish it would have been, I would have never driven it if it were at low as I'm sure it was.
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Old Dec 15, 2012 | 12:18 AM
  #35  
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Check your e-shaft too. Make sure all oil passages are properly flowing. Just 1 clogged passage could do damage.
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