VIDEO - Oil fill neck smoking, running on one rotor
11-28-12, 05:03 PM
#1
VIDEO - Oil fill neck smoking, running on one rotor
This happened after a fresh rebuild and about maybe 1 hr of driving. I suddenly lost power and had to tow the car home. I overheated just as this happened too, when on the side of the fwy I had the smoke coming out of the fill neck as you see in the vid, and my coolant was very hot and bubbling due to a bad water pump. I have no clue what happened, I am just hoping I don't have to pull the block apart again because I just rebuilt it.
11-28-12, 06:08 PM
#4
Senior Member
Sounds like you burst a coolant o ring. Gotta do it all over again. Hopefully you didn't ruin any parts and just need new coolant o rings. Thats the absolute luckiest situation though. Odds are one of the irons broke as well and you will either have to weld a new wall in or replace the iron.
11-28-12, 06:39 PM
#6
is the smoke coming from under that cap or what looks like some sort of extension neck connected to it?
im no expert. but if your water pump caused the overheat then anything and everything associated that requires it run to properly to cool would be the issue. the fact that you have smoke coming out of the that thing would probably indicate that some seal could be bad.
im no expert. but if your water pump caused the overheat then anything and everything associated that requires it run to properly to cool would be the issue. the fact that you have smoke coming out of the that thing would probably indicate that some seal could be bad.
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11-28-12, 09:18 PM
#8
This is bad. You need to pull the engine and tear it down. No way around this one. When did you know the waterpump was bad? If it overheated you could be looking serious damage.
11-28-12, 09:31 PM
#9
Here's what I don't understand..if I DID blow a coolant seal, I would be losing a lot coolant wouldn't I? I barely lost any coolant. I did lose a little, but figured it was out of the water pump.
What exactly are you thinking is the reason for the smoke coming out of the oil neck? Where is it coming from?
11-29-12, 12:13 AM
#10
Honestly, I'm not sure what is coming out the oil filler neck. Isn't that usually capped off? Does it smell like burning coolent? Burning oil?
How overheated did you get? Did the needle on the stock gauge get past the "normal" range? If it did..... yikes. The stock coolent temp gauge on an FC really only has 3 positions. Cold, operating temp, and fawked. The s4 is more that way than the s5 but if the needle gets out of the normal range you are way past trouble.
How overheated did you get? Did the needle on the stock gauge get past the "normal" range? If it did..... yikes. The stock coolent temp gauge on an FC really only has 3 positions. Cold, operating temp, and fawked. The s4 is more that way than the s5 but if the needle gets out of the normal range you are way past trouble.
11-29-12, 01:31 AM
#11
I just want to know if someone knows what exactly I did by overheating that is causing me to run on only one rotor. I'm not losing an insane amount of coolant. I plan on pulling the motor tm morning unless someone has a good idea of something it could be besides that.
My stock temp gauge doesn't say normal or anything, it's just a gauge no words. I was watching it like a hawk because I knew I had a bad WP, and it was at about 45%, it seemed until I was already having problems. It was as it the gauge has like a "delay" problem where it takes a while for it to actually read temps...I don't think it went above 50% until I was already pulling over. It was weird.
My stock temp gauge doesn't say normal or anything, it's just a gauge no words. I was watching it like a hawk because I knew I had a bad WP, and it was at about 45%, it seemed until I was already having problems. It was as it the gauge has like a "delay" problem where it takes a while for it to actually read temps...I don't think it went above 50% until I was already pulling over. It was weird.
11-29-12, 01:57 AM
#12
It's just a head-scratcher because I used brand new oil o-rings with brand new oil control rings, so it's weird that I'm getting smoke from there. I feel like if I blew a water seal, maybe it was an outer water seal somewhere by the bottom of the motor where the oil pan is...but then that's weird because that wouldn't have really any effect on how the motor runs after starting it cold like in the vid. Just trying to be definite on what it is before I pull the block apart just in case it may be something else I can check...but I guess since it seems like there's about a 95% chance something's wrong internally might as well check it out and replace with some fresh coolant seals.
Taking the block back out tm morning, I'll have it disassembled sometime over the weekend and let y'all know what's up with pics.
Taking the block back out tm morning, I'll have it disassembled sometime over the weekend and let y'all know what's up with pics.
11-29-12, 02:03 PM
#18
SO just took out my bottom spark plugs to do just a quick compression test just by ear...and there was green coolant on the tip of my rear spark plug..HOORAY so I'm taking the motor out now. Both rotors still have compression one though is definitely lower than the other, hopefully just due to flooding. Still confused as to why I am getting blow by in my oil system, but I guess we'll find out!
12-05-12, 03:49 AM
#22
Alright folks, get ready for some funny ****....
So motor pulled out today, start disassembling it and looking for any clues to what may have happened. When the exhaust manifold is off I turn the motor a bit to see if anything squirts out, and this disgusting combination of coolant and oil pours out.
moving on I take off the LIM, and as I am doing this, I remember that I had tried to re-use the o-rings that go from the lim to the engine block where the coolant passages are in this picture.
Knowing that that's probably where I fucked up, I removed the LIM and gasket, and low and behold, the shitty used o-ring I used wasn't holding up and coolant was getting past it.
I am almost positive this is how I was getting water into my engine. I know the water seals were installed correctly so I didn't see how they could have randomly blown so early on a rebuild.
Next I take off the tension bolts and remove the rear iron. Everything looks pretty good in here, besides there being a lot of oil and coolant on the sides of the rotor housing and everywhere else imaginable.
Rear plate and water seals appear to be in good shape. No cracking of the water jackets or of the plate itself.
So I remove all the side and corner seals which also seem to be in good shape and organize them on my workbench for reinstallation later. Take out the dowel pins, and remove the rear rotor housing. Apex seals and springs are taken out. The water seals on the center iron also look fine. Appears to be nothing wrong with it. I'm starting to get very curious because I know there has to be something wrong with that rear rotor for me to have lost compression and be getting tons of blow by...
So I take off the rear rotor, and there it is...
HUGE ******* cracks on the rear face of the center iron. I'm still a bit confused to how this happened. I am thinking that since I had hot coolant slowly leaking into my rear rotor housing via the intake, it caused the engine to blow when trying to compress the water? Hope someone can confirm that for me because as this has never happened to me I am just trying to make an educated guess.
Also kind of fucked up the front face of the rear rotor. The side seals are all stuck inside the grooves, they appear to be almost melted inside of there. I'm really hoping I'll be able to get them out and still have a good rotor, but that may need to be replaced as well.
Just want to make sure that when I replace the center iron, and throw everything back together, the same thing won't happen again so long as I fix my water leaking problem. I got a brand new waterpump from Mazda and new o-rings for the intake water passages already, so I won't be having any more water or overheating issues.
I don't really see how else that could have happened. Just would like some confirmation on my guess.
So motor pulled out today, start disassembling it and looking for any clues to what may have happened. When the exhaust manifold is off I turn the motor a bit to see if anything squirts out, and this disgusting combination of coolant and oil pours out.
moving on I take off the LIM, and as I am doing this, I remember that I had tried to re-use the o-rings that go from the lim to the engine block where the coolant passages are in this picture.
Knowing that that's probably where I fucked up, I removed the LIM and gasket, and low and behold, the shitty used o-ring I used wasn't holding up and coolant was getting past it.
I am almost positive this is how I was getting water into my engine. I know the water seals were installed correctly so I didn't see how they could have randomly blown so early on a rebuild.
Next I take off the tension bolts and remove the rear iron. Everything looks pretty good in here, besides there being a lot of oil and coolant on the sides of the rotor housing and everywhere else imaginable.
Rear plate and water seals appear to be in good shape. No cracking of the water jackets or of the plate itself.
So I remove all the side and corner seals which also seem to be in good shape and organize them on my workbench for reinstallation later. Take out the dowel pins, and remove the rear rotor housing. Apex seals and springs are taken out. The water seals on the center iron also look fine. Appears to be nothing wrong with it. I'm starting to get very curious because I know there has to be something wrong with that rear rotor for me to have lost compression and be getting tons of blow by...
So I take off the rear rotor, and there it is...
HUGE ******* cracks on the rear face of the center iron. I'm still a bit confused to how this happened. I am thinking that since I had hot coolant slowly leaking into my rear rotor housing via the intake, it caused the engine to blow when trying to compress the water? Hope someone can confirm that for me because as this has never happened to me I am just trying to make an educated guess.
Also kind of fucked up the front face of the rear rotor. The side seals are all stuck inside the grooves, they appear to be almost melted inside of there. I'm really hoping I'll be able to get them out and still have a good rotor, but that may need to be replaced as well.
Just want to make sure that when I replace the center iron, and throw everything back together, the same thing won't happen again so long as I fix my water leaking problem. I got a brand new waterpump from Mazda and new o-rings for the intake water passages already, so I won't be having any more water or overheating issues.
I don't really see how else that could have happened. Just would like some confirmation on my guess.
