2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Video of my TII swap hesitation

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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 02:49 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by satch
The car should run rather well w/o the help of the trailing coil so you could disconnect yours and see if the very same problem exists.
This is very true. My car was tuned on the leading coil, due to malfunction of a rear coil.
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 10:43 AM
  #27  
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ive unhooked it before and it runs the same. from my understanding its only there to help burn off fuel. it just runs really rich if they are unhooked. but mines runs stoopid rich already. it burns your eyes to stand around my car lol. my other sevens never were ike this :p
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 10:52 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by savanna.seven
ive unhooked it before and it runs the same. from my understanding its only there to help burn off fuel. it just runs really rich if they are unhooked. but mines runs stoopid rich already. it burns your eyes to stand around my car lol. my other sevens never were ike this :p
If you're worried about the wiring to the primary injectors then you could test for voltage w/key to on at the ECU at pin 3E (Light Green wire) and pin 3C (Light Green/Black). If you read 12 volts then this tells you the injector plugs are not loose and that both wires in the plug are not pulled back.
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 12:47 PM
  #29  
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alright. Thatll be next after i put my fuel pump back lol.


dont laugh but....could replacing my plug wires help spark? or is that an issue specific to just the coil?
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 12:52 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by savanna.seven
alright. Thatll be next after i put my fuel pump back lol.


dont laugh but....could replacing my plug wires help spark? or is that an issue specific to just the coil?
If they're damaged or just plain old I would think so. The coil/igniter, plugs, and wires all contribute to a quality spark.
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 10:11 PM
  #31  
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Any more ideas guys?
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 12:18 AM
  #32  
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Did you unplug what I pictured on the first page?

And satch's earlier question about whether you have a pressure sensor (equipped on N/A) or a boost sensor (equipped on TII)... Have you checked this?
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 10:16 AM
  #33  
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I bypassed what you pictured. The one under the air filter. I cut the pigtail off and ran all the wires together. My buddy answered the boost sensor question a few posts up... I'm running the boost sensor that matches the ecu. n332.
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 10:47 AM
  #34  
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When you changed out the TPS did you notice any discernable difference in the engine performance?
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 08:56 PM
  #35  
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Not really. The old one had a dead spot which I thought was causing the hesitation, but the new one didn't really change anything.
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Old Nov 9, 2011 | 08:57 PM
  #36  
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Hmmm I did the TB mod, maybe I screwed up. I'll throw a stock TB on and see what happens.
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 12:51 PM
  #37  
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As I said in the original post, I just went through all the grounds a couple days ago.
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 02:29 PM
  #38  
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bump. any updates?

im still having the same issue. narrow anything down?
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 03:42 PM
  #39  
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Nothing. I finally took the car off the road so I can build it the right way. Tired of it running like ****. Going to put a haltech or something in, tune it, and be done with it. I'm almost positive it's electrical, probably the ecu that I have is fucked up or something.

What all have you tried? TPS, check for codes like the maf, boost sensor, etc, vac leaks. If yours is a swap did you take out the wire for the knock sensor? Did you do the TB mod? Could of messed that up and have a vac leak there. That's pretty much everything I've tried. Next was going to be to get all s5 electronics and ecu but now I figure I might as well just get a standalone so when I build the motor I'll already have it.
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 04:15 PM
  #40  
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Im all stock S4 tii. ive gone over all my vac lines, grounds, fuel filter, rebuilt injectors, plugs, wires ect. TPS is good, MAF is good, someone suggested hesitaions are almost always fuel related. my screws that hold the fuel filter housing to the tank are stripped so i havent been able to check the sock or filter.
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 06:56 PM
  #41  
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and now the fuel pump and sock can be added to that list. just got done checking them and they are cleann
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 08:00 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by savanna.seven
and now the fuel pump and sock can be added to that list. just got done checking them and they are cleann
Measure the fuel pressure with an inline pressure reader. Also, measure the resistance on the wires to the fuel pump from the relay box or between the Circuit Opening Relay and the pump. Proper amperage flow to the pump is very important.
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 08:25 PM
  #43  
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are you pre-mixing? if you are and if you disconnected the OMP harness the engine will go in limp into mode.
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 08:08 PM
  #44  
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Was this ever figured out?
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