dwb87

iTrader: (22)

This is very true. My car was tuned on the leading coil, due to malfunction of a rear coil.

savanna.seven

iTrader: (5)

ive unhooked it before and it runs the same. from my understanding its only there to help burn off fuel. it just runs really rich if they are unhooked. but mines runs stoopid rich already. it burns your eyes to stand around my car lol. my other sevens never were ike this :p

satch

iTrader: (1)

If you're worried about the wiring to the primary injectors then you could test for voltage w/key to on at the ECU at pin 3E (Light Green wire) and pin 3C (Light Green/Black). If you read 12 volts then this tells you the injector plugs are not loose and that both wires in the plug are not pulled back.

savanna.seven

iTrader: (5)

alright. Thatll be next after i put my fuel pump back lol.


dont laugh but....could replacing my plug wires help spark? or is that an issue specific to just the coil?

satch

iTrader: (1)

If they're damaged or just plain old I would think so. The coil/igniter, plugs, and wires all contribute to a quality spark.

mxrider914

iTrader: (3)

Any more ideas guys?

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

Did you unplug what I pictured on the first page?

And satch's earlier question about whether you have a pressure sensor (equipped on N/A) or a boost sensor (equipped on TII)... Have you checked this?

mxrider914

iTrader: (3)

I bypassed what you pictured. The one under the air filter. I cut the pigtail off and ran all the wires together. My buddy answered the boost sensor question a few posts up... I'm running the boost sensor that matches the ecu. n332.

satch

iTrader: (1)

When you changed out the TPS did you notice any discernable difference in the engine performance?

mxrider914

iTrader: (3)

Not really. The old one had a dead spot which I thought was causing the hesitation, but the new one didn't really change anything.

mxrider914

iTrader: (3)

Hmmm I did the TB mod, maybe I screwed up. I'll throw a stock TB on and see what happens.

mxrider914

iTrader: (3)

As I said in the original post, I just went through all the grounds a couple days ago.

savanna.seven

iTrader: (5)

bump. any updates?

im still having the same issue. narrow anything down?

mxrider914

iTrader: (3)

Nothing. I finally took the car off the road so I can build it the right way. Tired of it running like ****. Going to put a haltech or something in, tune it, and be done with it. I'm almost positive it's electrical, probably the ecu that I have is fucked up or something.

What all have you tried? TPS, check for codes like the maf, boost sensor, etc, vac leaks. If yours is a swap did you take out the wire for the knock sensor? Did you do the TB mod? Could of messed that up and have a vac leak there. That's pretty much everything I've tried. Next was going to be to get all s5 electronics and ecu but now I figure I might as well just get a standalone so when I build the motor I'll already have it.

savanna.seven

iTrader: (5)

Im all stock S4 tii. ive gone over all my vac lines, grounds, fuel filter, rebuilt injectors, plugs, wires ect. TPS is good, MAF is good, someone suggested hesitaions are almost always fuel related. my screws that hold the fuel filter housing to the tank are stripped so i havent been able to check the sock or filter.

savanna.seven

iTrader: (5)

and now the fuel pump and sock can be added to that list. just got done checking them and they are cleann

satch

iTrader: (1)

Measure the fuel pressure with an inline pressure reader. Also, measure the resistance on the wires to the fuel pump from the relay box or between the Circuit Opening Relay and the pump. Proper amperage flow to the pump is very important.

HIrotary

are you pre-mixing? if you are and if you disconnected the OMP harness the engine will go in limp into mode.

stuwk1

Was this ever figured out?