Vibrating Driveshaft Question
05-03-12, 04:03 PM
#1
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Vibrating Driveshaft Question
Hi All,
I'm in a bit of a pickle. I've got a non turbo car with a turbo II tranny and a non turbo rear end. the drive shaft is vibrating at about 60 mph - which I've read is probably a bad u-joint.
The problem is that I have no idea what I need to replace given the hybrid nature of everything. How do I know if I have a turbo II or N/A drive shaft? I assume it is the N/A shaft with a T2 u joint. So in my head I should just need a new Ujoint like Ive seen posted in other threads: Rockford Driveline (part # 430-10A) for about $30.
Yes? Thanks in advance.
I'm in a bit of a pickle. I've got a non turbo car with a turbo II tranny and a non turbo rear end. the drive shaft is vibrating at about 60 mph - which I've read is probably a bad u-joint.
The problem is that I have no idea what I need to replace given the hybrid nature of everything. How do I know if I have a turbo II or N/A drive shaft? I assume it is the N/A shaft with a T2 u joint. So in my head I should just need a new Ujoint like Ive seen posted in other threads: Rockford Driveline (part # 430-10A) for about $30.
Yes? Thanks in advance.
05-03-12, 04:19 PM
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05-03-12, 04:44 PM
#4
Not the most common of swaps, but definitely a viable alternative to a full turbo drivetrain swap. Mazdatrix sells a T2 trans to NA diff driveshaft. It's the last one on their list. They also list the replacement u-joint.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/g9.htm
Seems more likely they're using the Mazdatrix shaft instead of finding another driveshaft that happened to fit.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/g9.htm
Seems more likely they're using the Mazdatrix shaft instead of finding another driveshaft that happened to fit.
05-03-12, 07:29 PM
#5
Check to see if your u-joints are replaceable. Hell, first of all, make sure your u-joints are actually bad. Then see if they're replaceable. If they are, take the bad one out and measure it up.
Look at the bottom of the first page here:
http://rockforddriveline.com/Staked-In_U-Joints.pdf
Measure the 2 measurements, then go to a driveshaft shop to see what they can get for you. You might find it's a common size.
Look at the bottom of the first page here:
http://rockforddriveline.com/Staked-In_U-Joints.pdf
Measure the 2 measurements, then go to a driveshaft shop to see what they can get for you. You might find it's a common size.
05-04-12, 09:23 AM
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So a little development.
I can measure that the ujoint ear is about .002 of an inch out of round from dis-assembly of the factory U joint. The "A" tab from your diagram above. With this discovery it that something a drive shaft shop can handle or am I looking for a new turbo II drive shaft?
Also - the rear is connected to the diff via a machined plate. Since the bolt pattern was larger on the turbo II drive shaft a machinist move the bolt holes in and I've verified that is balanced.
Lastly, I have access to the rest of the blown turbo II car that this tranny came out of. Should I just go take the whole rear assembly and get a new turbo2 shaft and call it a day?
I can measure that the ujoint ear is about .002 of an inch out of round from dis-assembly of the factory U joint. The "A" tab from your diagram above. With this discovery it that something a drive shaft shop can handle or am I looking for a new turbo II drive shaft?
Also - the rear is connected to the diff via a machined plate. Since the bolt pattern was larger on the turbo II drive shaft a machinist move the bolt holes in and I've verified that is balanced.
Lastly, I have access to the rest of the blown turbo II car that this tranny came out of. Should I just go take the whole rear assembly and get a new turbo2 shaft and call it a day?
05-04-12, 11:12 AM
#7
I'd replace the u-joints and have the driveshaft balanced. I wouldn't suspect that .002" is enough to really affect the balance.
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05-04-12, 11:44 AM
#8
first time that i did a turbo swap i did used a turbo 2 driveshaft and a na rear end with no problems,the driveshaft is centered on the rear end flange the same way a brake rotor is center on a hub(no way 2 mess it up)then i drill the holes use the stock bolts and 7 years down the road 500hp pull still running strong and it has never vibrated at all.
05-04-12, 03:21 PM
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Yes, the TII rear end w/ axles is a stout improvement over the NA cars. If the driveshaft is bolted to the differential using a machined plate, the driveshaft is 99.9% likely to be a TII driveshaft. So if you want, contact a driveshaft shop or search the internet for a place selling the 430-11 u-joint to replace yours. It's actually very easy to replace them, you just need a dremel and some basic hand tools.
I'd replace the u-joints and have the driveshaft balanced. I wouldn't suspect that .002" is enough to really affect the balance.
I'd replace the u-joints and have the driveshaft balanced. I wouldn't suspect that .002" is enough to really affect the balance.
I may just grab the read end with a replacement axle and call it a day. The .002 is noticeable but that as close as I can get it from .08 that it was before. And it isn't the U-Joint that is out of spec, but the actual "teeth" that connect to the U-Joint - make sense?
05-08-12, 01:05 PM
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05-08-12, 02:42 PM
#12
I'm going out on a limb here, but I really do think that's fine. I can't see any issue with such a small change in the yoke ears. I have changed out hundreds of u-joints before and have had to seriously beat on the yoke to get some out.
Go ahead and grab one of these and replace the u-joint, then swap in the rest of the TII drivetrain. If the machined plate is off, it'll cause a vibration. The easiest way to fix that issue is installing the diff and halfshafts from the TII.
Aren't all TII differentials limited slip too?
Go ahead and grab one of these and replace the u-joint, then swap in the rest of the TII drivetrain. If the machined plate is off, it'll cause a vibration. The easiest way to fix that issue is installing the diff and halfshafts from the TII.
Aren't all TII differentials limited slip too?
05-08-12, 03:13 PM
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I'm going out on a limb here, but I really do think that's fine. I can't see any issue with such a small change in the yoke ears. I have changed out hundreds of u-joints before and have had to seriously beat on the yoke to get some out.
Go ahead and grab one of these and replace the u-joint, then swap in the rest of the TII drivetrain. If the machined plate is off, it'll cause a vibration. The easiest way to fix that issue is installing the diff and halfshafts from the TII.
Aren't all TII differentials limited slip too?
Go ahead and grab one of these and replace the u-joint, then swap in the rest of the TII drivetrain. If the machined plate is off, it'll cause a vibration. The easiest way to fix that issue is installing the diff and halfshafts from the TII.
Aren't all TII differentials limited slip too?
And yeah, so far as I know all TII's are LSD.
06-18-12, 08:08 PM
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