2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.
Sponsored by:

Very sorry Newb ?? tried searching a FAQ. About carbon and apex seals.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-28-04, 10:22 PM
  #1  
Junior Member

Thread Starter
 
DaveRous's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Very sorry Newb ?? tried searching a FAQ. About carbon and apex seals.

Sorry guys if this is common as crap and I missed it with the wrong search terms but I just wanst getting the info i needed through search and FAQ, feel free to link me if I missed something. Looking at a lot of four Rx-7's from a local guy.two 2nd gens and two first gens. Anyway here is the real deal. Both of the 2nd gens have run into the same problem. They won't idle correctly(Die when left untouched) and seems to have no power. I know very little about these engines at this point so I listen to this guy with his minor knowlege. He has run a compression test and tells me it seems fine. Told me someone he know told him about carbon building up in the engine and causing a huge loss of power. Says that one of the 2nd gens started this problem while stopped at a stop sign, the other after the car was parked at a mall and restarted. I searched a bit and found out abuto apex seals (to a degree ) and am wondering if this seems like the issue. I do not want to buy these cars if that is the most likly situation as they will be daily drivers(some parts cars) as I build up my VR4. Also if carbon does seem to be the issue would seafoam be an option? I saw many things being run to clean carbon but have not seen the use of seafoam. also he said he was only able to check one part while doing the comression test, if someone has a link to the instruction for doing a comlete test please clue me in. I will leave any info you guys need just ask whatever you want. I was going to buy the 87 GXL personaly, with the base model auto for a parts car. Great part was he wants 300 bucks for the GXL and 500 for the parts car Please help a newbie out, Love to get to know a wankel
Old 04-28-04, 10:25 PM
  #2  
Junior Member

Thread Starter
 
DaveRous's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
God, should have re-read that post, grammar was **** poor :p
Old 04-28-04, 10:40 PM
  #3  
Lives on the Forum

 
WAYNE88N/A's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Coldspring TX
Posts: 5,721
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
man, where to start...idle problems are common on these cars, and could be the result of a number of things, but a carbon-clogged apex seal is not usually the culprit...you should be able to find a number of threads for a compression check using the search function- the compression check will be the most important indication of the engine's health, if you want a daily driver...you will learn more as you go along by reading this forum, searching, and getting your hands on the Haynes and Factory Service Manual, which can be downloaded online...good luck...
Old 04-28-04, 10:41 PM
  #4  
Always something...

 
DigitalSynthesis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Atlanta, Ga USA
Posts: 944
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
For those prices I'd get 'em if the bodies aren't all rusted out. A rebuild will cost you about $2k if you go through kevin landers, including pulling and replacing the engine. He's in Tennessee, not too far away. That's about worst case for you, I think. My NA died about 5k miles after developing those symptoms (tossed an apex seal for whatever reason - haven't torn it down yet for a look-see) so YMMV, but someone else did use seafoam instead of water injection and said it gave good results. I would get them compression checked yourself, however. I don't trust anyone else's readings, especially the guy selling the car.

Also read aaron cake's writeup on how to buy an rx-7 which I think is listed in the 2nd Gen FAQs.
Old 04-29-04, 12:27 AM
  #5  
Junior Member

Thread Starter
 
DaveRous's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yeah, testing myself tomorrow. More searching gave me the know-how I read the FAQ about buying these cars and it did help. Bodies on both are great, except the paint issue No rust. Interiors are very nice. I was just looking into buying a car that would use as little of my money as possible so I coul devote more to my high HP car and not worry about ripping it apart. I'll try some seafoam before buying them I guess, as I would like to avoid a rebuild if possible. Thanks guys. Any more info would be great, but until then I'll keep on searching.

Last edited by DaveRous; 04-29-04 at 12:34 AM.
Old 04-29-04, 12:37 AM
  #6  
Junior Member

Thread Starter
 
DaveRous's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Also, the culprit of the major loss of power would be what then? Its like some is behind pushing the car, not like you are driving it
Old 04-29-04, 12:42 AM
  #7  
Always something...

 
DigitalSynthesis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Atlanta, Ga USA
Posts: 944
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Possibly the ECU put it into "limp mode" too... that can happen if its throwing codes (the check engine light is on, or blinks randomly)... but I think a compression test would tell you the most useful info - if its an internal engine problem or an external (ECU, clogged cat or injectors, etc) problem.
Old 04-29-04, 01:05 AM
  #8  
Junior Member

Thread Starter
 
DaveRous's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
All over it... Thanks again.
Old 04-29-04, 06:10 PM
  #9  
Rotary Enthusiast

 
inflatablepets's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: St Louis
Posts: 1,473
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Compression test is in order for you. If you don't know how to do it then here it is.
1. Make sure that you have a fully charged battery.
2. Remove the leading plugs, (if am not mistaken)
3. Screw the compression tester in to one of the holes.
4. Pull the EGI fuse and injector fuse.
5. Have an assistant put accelerator to the floor and crank the engine.
6. While the engine is being cranked, hold in the pressure release valve on the compression tester and note the numbers per rotor face.
7. Repeat on the other rotor.
I had bought a car that had supposed fuel problems, and going on his knowlege I wasted many hours trying to figure the car out. I asked a few questions and found out that I should've done a compression test right off the bat.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jeff20B
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
73
09-16-18 07:16 PM
Howard Coleman
The Good Businesses
2
09-15-15 10:31 AM



Quick Reply: Very sorry Newb ?? tried searching a FAQ. About carbon and apex seals.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:30 AM.