Jesse[SM]

I'm doing my first rebuild of a rotary engine. My first rebuild of any engine besides a Briggs & Stratton for that matter. The engine suffered a blown coolant seal thanks to a bad heater core hose blowing. I have the engine out and accessories removed but I haven't cracked the keg open just yet. I'm using a bunch of guides such as the FSM, Haynes, RebuildingRotaryEngines.com, and the Bruce Turrentine video as well as some threads on this site.

In addition to the rebuild, I have emissions block off plates(no emissions where it's registered)and a BOV to install. I also plan to clean everything else very thoroughly, the Eshaft thermal bypass mod and repair some crap connections in my harness I noticed when I pulled the engine.

I'm wondering if there is anything else I should consider doing while I have everything out and apart? I don't really plan on lots of HP or even upgrading my turbo any time soon, I'm much more concerned with reliability and throttle response at this point. The previous owner rebuilt the engine with Rotary Aviation components less than 10k ago, so I'm hoping some things are still usable. In addition he said he had it street ported, so I'll be checking on that.

Anything else?

liquidblackracing

iTrader: (3)

well sounds like since it has been rebuilt before exp if it was only 10k miles ago that you should be strait with the apex seals. sucks that you blew the coolant seal. just make sure you do a good inspection. you might wanna get a rebuild video from atkins rotary or if you can afford it the dyi series. they helped me a bunch. make sure if you clean the rotors it self that you have the rubber o-rings out because they will swell and you will burn oil like mad. and make sure you mark every thing where it goes. and make sure you dont loose any of the key ways like i did and had to track one down for you oil pump. its a bitch :P. and you might wanna invest in some pineapple racing water seals. (aka coolant seals) they are reusable and makes me feel better than stock.

links
atkins rebuild vid - http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/pr...cat=567&page=1

pineapple racing water seals
http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...PROD&ProdID=99

and if you have any other questions you can pm me. ive only done one rebuild so far but it really isnt that hard.
best of luck
marshall

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Check the housings and irons for warping.

If they are alright, then you should be fine.

Replace all the rubber hoses (including vacuum lines), belts and engine mounts. Have the injectors serviced.

g14novak

iTrader: (1)

QFT. One of the most common problems with a amatuer rebuilt motor is not checking to make sure the irons and housings are within spec.

Me and a friend just got done rebuilding his motor and thought everything went smoothly. Went to start it for the first time and it smoked like crazy. Ended up one of the OCRs we tried to reuse was cracked...

We were beyond furious.

If your going by the FSM when rebuilding the motor, make sure to triple and quadruple check every step you take and make sure everything your putting it is a good part. And don't do it when your tired. Last thing you need is to put in some springs upside down or forget a dowel pin o-ring or something dumb like that.

Jesse[SM]

I had planned on using the Rotary Aviation O-ring kit if all of the hard seals were still within spec. On their site they claim the seals are more durable than stock and reusable as well, and the kit is a good price. I am under the impression that you must replace all rubber seals if you even open the engine, and that you can't just replace the coolant seals only.

I think those O-rings are included in the kit, if not I'll be sure and take them out, thanks for the tip.

I plan on replacing all the hoses as that's what got me into this predicament in the first place. I figured, "hey he rebuilt the engine, the hoses should be fine," or more accurately, never really thought about it. I haven't decided if I should go with silicon or just some replacement hoses from Napa or whatever.

is there a preferred place to send injectors to, or should I just take them somewhere local? Or is this something I could do myself as well? Like disassemble, clean, replace seals, etc?

I'll be checking everything to make sure it's within spec, several times. The car has sat for so long already that it's not a big deal to wait a bit longer if I need to find a new iron or whatever, although I hope I don't need to.

Dunno if I can help being tired, haha. I work full time and go to school full time.

Is there anything I should do for the turbo?

thanks!