Vertical G's ( GAS CAP ) Related.
#1
Vertical G's ( GAS CAP ) Related.
I have never seen this issue listed online or really brought up.
While drifting at an event I noticed my fresh paint bacon around the gas cap lid, and thought to myself, I must have spelt gas on my fresh paint.
NO! It in-fact was gas exiting my fuel cap and FLOOOOOOWing out like a river. Now I need to paint repair around four square feet. POOO expensive stuff.
So, my only facts are: I have a black replaced Automotive O-ring on my cap. The other fact is my gas cap clicks like normal but does it require more then 2-3 clicks to be effective?
Does the O ring style gasket need to be a flat edged specialty product? Or do I just need to keep turning that gas cap until it clicks like 15-20 times.(To my Knowledge it clicks when it done not tighten further?)
Please do not reply with buy a replacement, as It's not helpful, if anything just criticism on the sealing portion.
While drifting at an event I noticed my fresh paint bacon around the gas cap lid, and thought to myself, I must have spelt gas on my fresh paint.
NO! It in-fact was gas exiting my fuel cap and FLOOOOOOWing out like a river. Now I need to paint repair around four square feet. POOO expensive stuff.
So, my only facts are: I have a black replaced Automotive O-ring on my cap. The other fact is my gas cap clicks like normal but does it require more then 2-3 clicks to be effective?
Does the O ring style gasket need to be a flat edged specialty product? Or do I just need to keep turning that gas cap until it clicks like 15-20 times.(To my Knowledge it clicks when it done not tighten further?)
Please do not reply with buy a replacement, as It's not helpful, if anything just criticism on the sealing portion.
#2
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A few clicks are all you need.
But, is it a stock factory cap? If it's a replacement cap, some of them are vented with an opposite check valve. The stock cap wants to keep the tank under slight vacuum. Some systems vent to atmosphere. Or the vent is broken.
Gas caps can be tested. Most good shops have a rig and if you show up with a few coffees they may do it for free.
Looking at the o-ring on my cap, it's just a stiff round rubber o-ring. Doesn't appear to be anything special.
But, is it a stock factory cap? If it's a replacement cap, some of them are vented with an opposite check valve. The stock cap wants to keep the tank under slight vacuum. Some systems vent to atmosphere. Or the vent is broken.
Gas caps can be tested. Most good shops have a rig and if you show up with a few coffees they may do it for free.
Looking at the o-ring on my cap, it's just a stiff round rubber o-ring. Doesn't appear to be anything special.
#3
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the seal around the cap seems to be generic to every gas cap, probably not the problem, but you could try it.
BTW what is bacon paint? sounds like a great idea
#4
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He's from Alberta...Canada..chuckle!
It's a Canadian thing man..we throw bacon on everything up here..
Ugly women?..Bacon it..Squeaky rear diff?...of course..Bacon Grease..lol!
*bacon flavored Beer..hmm..sounds like a plan!
It's a Canadian thing man..we throw bacon on everything up here..
Ugly women?..Bacon it..Squeaky rear diff?...of course..Bacon Grease..lol!
*bacon flavored Beer..hmm..sounds like a plan!
#5
Gas cap is OEM from 1990, so I will say it's failing and the "venting" system is allowing gas to head-out though another area seeping out heavily. I'll be ordering one online soon enough. I put a rag on top of it and it was soaked after one rip out on the pad. Start ups were getting worse so I think a new cap won't hurt. I don't see how my new O-ring will fix old plastic.
BACON PAINT! is when gas/solvent dissolves under fresh paint and wrinkles and De-laminates and evaporates quickly drying out. Well At least the it's just the rear bumper and under the cap. Only good thing is I didn't get to polishing it yet.
Sanding out the area heavily, then high build primer and then sanding back larger area then painting and another million dollars.
BACON PAINT! is when gas/solvent dissolves under fresh paint and wrinkles and De-laminates and evaporates quickly drying out. Well At least the it's just the rear bumper and under the cap. Only good thing is I didn't get to polishing it yet.
Sanding out the area heavily, then high build primer and then sanding back larger area then painting and another million dollars.
#6
I wish I was driving!
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#9
New cap ... Mazda fault...
I'll end up getting a new cap as the old one seems to work better with a slightly in between size o-ring but it seems to seep though the breather in the cap and out the top end somewhere.
THOUGH!!! If Mazda did like every other manufacture and put a baffle flappy do-hicky in it: That would be the end of this.
In case anyone here is wondering LOCAL " Sundance Mazda", offers a new cap at only $56.00 Not Oem...
(Solution to my Thread: Buy new cap by using VIN number and identifying year of model and purchasing specific cap to stop gas from exiting tank)
Closing Thread 12/07/2016
THOUGH!!! If Mazda did like every other manufacture and put a baffle flappy do-hicky in it: That would be the end of this.
In case anyone here is wondering LOCAL " Sundance Mazda", offers a new cap at only $56.00 Not Oem...
(Solution to my Thread: Buy new cap by using VIN number and identifying year of model and purchasing specific cap to stop gas from exiting tank)
Closing Thread 12/07/2016
#10
Well, how this plays out in the end is pressure related and release of the the tank is required; maybe the regulator settings or stock ecu and just the gas exerting more pressure on the cap blocking the vent with gas. The lid only prevents liquid from clogging the vent. But builds up pressure as well. So I'll be fixing this by installing a swirl pot and breathers in the future. As of now just opening the cap after runs as a temporarily measure.
Last edited by rotor_veux; 08-27-16 at 10:40 PM.
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