Ok so i have 90 vert that i swapped a JDM Turbo II S5 engine in with a us spec wiring harness and ECU. It has a s4 TB with a S5 TPS and J-spec AFM. Other then that everything else is S5 US-spec. We went to start it earlier and and it turned over but wouldn't start so we sprayed a lil starter fluid in the throttle body and it fired up but shut off immediately afterwards. We tried diagnosing the problem and think it isn't getting gas to the injectors so either the relay or the fuel pump is gone but i wanted to know it there would be any other reason why it might not have started.
Let me know.

Thanks Ricky

 

fuel lines are probably crossed.

search.

 

Ok so thats no longer the problem now i replaced the fuel pump and and i am not getting spark which makes no sense because it started up with a little starter fluid before i replaced it. it is blowing a fuse though its a 15 amp for the engine. What would cause it to do that?

 

you have a short in the wiring..check Everything.Swaps most likely Have a bare wire showing,touching,whatever..if it is a power wire hitting ground..Boom,Short...so,I'd Double check the wiring harness.anything can be the fault..from the sender plugs to the Coil plugs..and if you have any emission Stuff on it,that is tied up onto the Engine harness also,..so if that is hanging,and touching,that could be the culprit..anyhow.good luck.

 

Vacuum leak.

 

oh..Yep..that's it!..a vacuum leak causes the Fuse to blow!.(now I've heard it all!)

 

thats what i was thinking a vacuum leak!? dam i should have know a vac leak would cause and electrical problem

 

Is it a us spec or jspec ecu?
I hve heard Jspec ones sometimes give problems.

 

us-spec ecu and harness j-spec engine

 

Was the engine fuse blowing before you replaced the fuel pump? If not, disconnect the fuel pump connector in the trunk and see if the fuse is still blowing. If the fuse stops blowing when you disconnect the fuel pump then you may have installed the fuel pump incorrectly. If it still blows the fuse with the fp disconnected you have a short somewhere else. Probably in the engine bay.

As far as your original problem is concerned, did you verify that the fuel pump was the problem before replacing it?
Here is test you should try. remove your filter and push your afm plunger in with the key in the "on" position. Your fuel pump relay should click and you should be able to hear fuel moving through the lines. If the relay clicks but the fuel doesn't flow then check the pump itself. If the relay doesn't click then swap it with another relay that looks like it and try it again. If it still doesn't click then it's not getting the signal from the ecu to open. If the ecu isn't signaling the fuel pump relay it might not be firing the injectors either. In the on position, one of the wires to the injectors should have battery voltage(+12V), the other should be a pulsing ground signal from the ecu. An easier way to tell is to put your finger on one of your secondaries while cranking. You should feel it clicking. If you don't feel clicking and you have no fuel pressure I would suspect that your ecu is not getting power or ground. The main harness ground is a ring terminal that bolts to the rats nest on the center housing, if it isn't grounding properly your car won't start.

 

yea i did confirm it was the fuel pump. there was no noise coming from it when i turned the key. but thanks for the other help.

 

ok so i found the short but now it doesnt want to idle. we are going to try to adjust the idle but i am wondering what else could cas it not to want to idle...tps?? maybe
thanks
Riki

 

ok so now that we adjusted the idle it doesnt want to idle below 2500 rpms and it eventually shuts off at 2500 rpms. i think because i have a street port its isnt getting enough of something probably gas cas i have the stock injectors... what do you guys think???

 

Sry for threadjacking...What other wankel engines besides the 13B fits/plug&play/is easy enough too put in the fc3s?

 

I wouldn't call anything that high an "idle" lol

Check the cruise control cable tension (if its on the car) or check the throttle cable tension. Might even be a combination of vac leak and tight cable.

 

You have a vacuum leak, and probadly a out of spec TPS..I would check for both.

Hook up a vaccum guage and see what it pulls when your engine runs. if your not getting 14.7 or better you got a leak somewhere.

 

Do you have a turbo fuel pump?

 

i have both but the turbo fuel pump is in there and we fixed the fuel pump problem it runs just doesn't idle below 2500 rpms which is about triple what its supposed to idle at