Terrh

iTrader: (7)

ok.. Got the car back together totally today. Got some problems.

1: I got it to idle (BAC had no wire! oops! ) but it seems to idle at about 2500RPM, all the time. Maybe this is just the warm up, but it should have settled once it got warm. Then again, maybe not, because

2: The car was hot when I shut it down. This is because I just took it for a spin with no fan (short drive), it did NOT overheat), but the water temp gauge just stayed all the way at the C the whole time. do these sensors often die? or could it be the wire, or what? If I fix this, will the idle settle down a little lower than 2500? How do I fix this?

3: I noticed a slight misfire/stumble. All the time. I dunno about WOT/above 3800, because I was pretty gentle. AUGH! BUT my oxygen sensor wasn't hooked up! Could this be the problem? WHERE THE HELL DOES THE CONNECTOR GO because I couldn't find it The plugs are new, but the wires are not. Could that be another part of the problem?

4: Oil pressure. my friend said there was zero oil pressure when I first started it, and that may be true.. I forgot to check the gauge. He said it shot up INSTANTLY after I drove for about 20 seconds. All the way up to the peg, which is where it was when I checked it. At idle, the gauge is pegged. Is this a problem?

5: umm.. that's it. There is no 5. if there is, I forget what it is.

6: I lied! Just remembered what 5 is. Now it's 6. I can't get the bolt nearest the engine on the turbo-precat tight. I can't see how the hell to get a tool in there. How do I do this? ahhh!

7: One more! wowie! My heater fan doesn't work. It worked before I pulled the engine. Any ideas why? could anything have come loose in the engine bay that would affect this?


Thanks for all your help, I REALLY appreciate it!

everyone, thanks for your help!

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

WTF! bump!

skyypilot

It sounds like you just have a lot of crossed wires. Find someone else with the same car and compare hookups.

:

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

too bad nobody around here has a turbo... unless I go to london or something

I think my driveability problems are due to lack of O2 sensor, but what about the rest? Some of the idle might have been due to a vacuum leak, too (one vac. hose disconnected, went to the pressure sensor).

Oil pressure is probably a dead sensor, good thing I have a spare one on the old motor that works!

How about the water temp though? That should still work, and I don't know why it won't!

hypntyz7

I assume you tried blipping the throttle to see if it would fall lower. Sometimes they stick. You could also have a bad thermowax, a misadjusted fast idle cam (on the thermowax cylinder), a dirty throttlebody, a too-tight cruise or throtte cable, the OMP rod holding the throttle open, etc. In other words, check for obstructions to the throttle plates closing fully.

The dash gauge gets run by the sensor at the rear of the block, under the oil filter and oil pressure sending unit. You likely left this unplugged. THey never die. This has nothing to do with anything else, the ecu never sees this signal, only your dash gauge.

The o2 sensor wire is on the same branch that the BAC wire is. They very often break off and you must cut back into the harness to find it, then splice into it there. This *should* not cause any real running problems...I have run many a car with no o2 sensor at all. It really only gets read at cruise (same throttle position for more than 3 seconds).



Sounds like a bad gauge, sending unit, connections therein, or the lack of a ground capacitor (that little black box that goes on the slave cylinder).

You obvioiusly dont have 110psi of oil pressure, nor do you have 0 (or the car wouldnt be running anymore) so it is a bad electrical signal.



1/2" drive socket, 14mm, with universal elbow and 12" extension. Simple as that, did this just yesterday.

Check all your fuses. Check the connectors by the ECU. Sometimes the logicon fails over time if left to sit unused. You might try working the fan speed back and forth quickly to see if the slide contacts improve on it, they could be just dusty from sitting unused.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

Woah.

Thanks! really! wowie.

Any idea about the stumble then?

hypntyz7

The stumble is likely a vacuum leak.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

ok, cool! I found a vacuum leak yesterday, and fixed it (after the drive!)
at first I thought I had no boost, but then I found the pressure sensor line off...

good, maybe that fixed it. Once I get all these issues settled and all the things on the car, I'm going for a long cruise tonight.


w00t

one more question... It's an s5 motor with an s4 ecu.. s4 externals too.. stock boost levels, premium gas required? What octane? 91 is prevelant around here, is that good enough? The only place I can find 94 is at sunoco, and the nearest one is like 15 miles away, I don't want to go on a 30 mile trip just to get gas.

hypntyz7

run what you'd run in the stock s5, which AFAIK would be 87. If you want, 91 should be safe. Especially if you have mods, I would go with 91.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

87 is safe on a turbo car? cool! I'll just run mid-grade for now then, ***** expensive and I'm broke

eViLRotor

iTrader: (2)

FYI, my Canadian owners manual for 87 TII says 91.

Sunoco 94 is overkill unless you are modded and tuned for that high octane.

hypntyz7

I have never looked in a s5 t2 owners manual, but I know the US spec s4 t2 manual specifies 87 is standard.

eViLRotor

iTrader: (2)

Interesting.
I wonder if that has something to do with the way different countries rate fuel, ie RON vs MON, etc.

Amur_

With all these disconnected and leaking bits, did you even LOOK at the motor before you went for that spin?