Value of 87 thats stock?
01-07-13, 10:43 AM
#1
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Value of 87 thats stock?
I have a 87 that I'm gonna go look at sometime this week, not much info on it other than the paint and body looks straight, and it hasn't ran in about ten users according I the seller, he thinks its a fuel pump but I'm gonna check compression, he wants 950 but wht should I offer? And once I get it running what y'all think I could get out of it?
01-07-13, 11:13 AM
#3
For non-running NAs Ive bought I paid:
$1500 '89 vert 68k miles
$600 86 base w/ full S5 NA interior & engine swap
$1000 87 sport 172k
$600 wrecked, but running 87 sport 212k w/ 25k mazda reman'd
$500 91 A pkg, carbed 166k miles
$free 88 4 lug car
$900 84 GSL 143k blown coolant seals
$1200 89 GTUs 101k
$1200 87 base 121k
$1500 '89 vert 68k miles
$600 86 base w/ full S5 NA interior & engine swap
$1000 87 sport 172k
$600 wrecked, but running 87 sport 212k w/ 25k mazda reman'd
$500 91 A pkg, carbed 166k miles
$free 88 4 lug car
$900 84 GSL 143k blown coolant seals
$1200 89 GTUs 101k
$1200 87 base 121k
Last edited by Landon303; 01-07-13 at 11:13 AM. Reason: forgot one lol
01-07-13, 11:30 AM
#4
The way I see it (series makes no diference)
$0-$700 Rx7s that doesnt run, or rx7s that run but has shitty body
$700-$1200 Rx7 runs with fair condition of body
$1200-$2000 great n/a running rx7 with good body, Non running turbo with good body
$2000-$3000 running rx7 turbo with fair body condition
$3000+ prestine rx7 turbo in good condition
The N/a cars that Ive bought in the past years were all under $1000. My previous 88gxl, I bought it for $500, it wasnt running.
$0-$700 Rx7s that doesnt run, or rx7s that run but has shitty body
$700-$1200 Rx7 runs with fair condition of body
$1200-$2000 great n/a running rx7 with good body, Non running turbo with good body
$2000-$3000 running rx7 turbo with fair body condition
$3000+ prestine rx7 turbo in good condition
The N/a cars that Ive bought in the past years were all under $1000. My previous 88gxl, I bought it for $500, it wasnt running.
01-07-13, 11:37 AM
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It's NA sorry forgot to include that, I asked for more pictures but got nothing yet, I'm gonna go look at it and try to get it for about $500
01-07-13, 12:25 PM
#6
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as per landon's list, here is mine
91 NA, A package, featured in the 15 day build challenge. empty carcass, i got in exchange for assembling an engine, $500?
89 vert 160k; new paint over excellent body. mechanically it was a solid B, got in exchange for replacing a 325i engine, ~$1000
87 GXL 70k, amazingly straight body, paint was shot, interior was really badly faded from the sun, mechanically it turned out great, $250
1990 NA, 70k, had body damage, free.
1991 auto, 100k, i forget, i got it in trade, and then we ended up trading back
1991 B package, 220k, good body, excellent interior, paint was so/so, dead engine, $500
1988 turbo, white, clean body, dead engine, $200.
1986 base, 70k, my first Rx7, bought in 1993 for $5500.
i think that's it, i've had every year and model, except the SE, and the GTUs, but i get the point
average price being $881.25
91 NA, A package, featured in the 15 day build challenge. empty carcass, i got in exchange for assembling an engine, $500?
89 vert 160k; new paint over excellent body. mechanically it was a solid B, got in exchange for replacing a 325i engine, ~$1000
87 GXL 70k, amazingly straight body, paint was shot, interior was really badly faded from the sun, mechanically it turned out great, $250
1990 NA, 70k, had body damage, free.
1991 auto, 100k, i forget, i got it in trade, and then we ended up trading back
1991 B package, 220k, good body, excellent interior, paint was so/so, dead engine, $500
1988 turbo, white, clean body, dead engine, $200.
1986 base, 70k, my first Rx7, bought in 1993 for $5500.
i think that's it, i've had every year and model, except the SE, and the GTUs, but i get the point
average price being $881.25
01-07-13, 10:22 PM
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IFigured out I just bought mine for 60 bucks!
700 dollar car..minus a set of coilovers sold@620
and a sensor @40..
...Quote: "hasn't ran in about ten users according to the Seller"...(OP!,that kills me!)
700 dollar car..minus a set of coilovers sold@620
and a sensor @40..
...Quote: "hasn't ran in about ten users according to the Seller"...(OP!,that kills me!)
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01-08-13, 12:16 PM
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my $250 87 was parked for 10 years. i got lucky and the fuel and oil systems were really nice, but the cooling system had to be completely removed and flushed out multiple times. long periods sitting is bad!
oh and it will need tires, and probably the brake master, at least
oh and it will need tires, and probably the brake master, at least
01-08-13, 11:02 PM
#14
For me -
88 na base model -$1000 red. needed engine rebuild and wiring fixed. 146k miles. Good condition. Stock. *Turned into daily then later sold*
87 na base model - $325 . Gold. 110k miles ran on 1 rotor. Stock. Fair condition. *scrapped*
88 Turbo 10ae. -$700 . 120k miles. Black. Blown coolant seals. Horrible condition. Strut bars, e fan, jacobs ignition lowering springs. *scrapped*
87 turbo - $1000. 94k miles. Black. decent condition. Blown coolant seals. 3" custom full exhaust. Lowering springs. E fan. Blitz bov valve. (Avatar pic). *current project , soon to be daily*
Rotary >Pistons
88 na base model -$1000 red. needed engine rebuild and wiring fixed. 146k miles. Good condition. Stock. *Turned into daily then later sold*
87 na base model - $325 . Gold. 110k miles ran on 1 rotor. Stock. Fair condition. *scrapped*
88 Turbo 10ae. -$700 . 120k miles. Black. Blown coolant seals. Horrible condition. Strut bars, e fan, jacobs ignition lowering springs. *scrapped*
87 turbo - $1000. 94k miles. Black. decent condition. Blown coolant seals. 3" custom full exhaust. Lowering springs. E fan. Blitz bov valve. (Avatar pic). *current project , soon to be daily*
Rotary >Pistons
01-11-13, 09:26 AM
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Well after talking to the owner, I found out that the car was his dads, who was diagnosed with leukemia around ten years ago. So he parked the car when his treatments started. It was running then, and has been sitting ever since. A year ago they tied to start it a year ago and got it running on I'm guessing starter fluid, car has been covered ever since the guy parked it
01-11-13, 10:45 AM
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01-11-13, 11:25 AM
#19
The GOOD side to it being parked so long ago is that the fuel in it probably did nto have ethanol mixed in, so it shouldn't be *THAT* hard to fix. You'll have to go thru it, but that's what makes it fun. In the end, you've got something that runs great & you put hard work into. At least that's what I enjoy. Get it, but knock em down as much as you can. When my parents bought my'89 vert that sat from 05-11, they did a ton of research on how much parts cost. They were able to bring the lady much lower in price just by showing exactly what all needs to be purchased for the car to bemade right again.
01-11-13, 12:07 PM
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Yeah I'm thinking fuel filter, pump, tank cleaning, pull the injectors and check them out, an clean out the lines, plus plugs and oil change
01-31-13, 02:34 PM
#23
You're going to get it or take a look at it? Also, was it garage kept (you only said it was covered, so not sure).
Do a compression test on it (make sure to disable fuel, so you don't have shitty fuel run through the system any more than it has to, and also since it's part of the procedure IIRC).
Re: fuel system - if you do get it, I'd use the tank drain to drain the fuel, then fill it with fresh fuel. Then I'd disconnect the fuel return hose to the tank, and have a helper hold it into a safe jug. Then use the yellow fuel pump prime/test connector (near the AFM, ACV, snorkel area) to run the fuel pump (runs with ignition on) so that the fuel in the lines gets flushed. That way you're not sending that fuel throught the injectors and engine. GL.
(and just to be obvious catch up on the maintenance right away including oil coolant spark plugs, etc.)
Do a compression test on it (make sure to disable fuel, so you don't have shitty fuel run through the system any more than it has to, and also since it's part of the procedure IIRC).
Re: fuel system - if you do get it, I'd use the tank drain to drain the fuel, then fill it with fresh fuel. Then I'd disconnect the fuel return hose to the tank, and have a helper hold it into a safe jug. Then use the yellow fuel pump prime/test connector (near the AFM, ACV, snorkel area) to run the fuel pump (runs with ignition on) so that the fuel in the lines gets flushed. That way you're not sending that fuel throught the injectors and engine. GL.
(and just to be obvious catch up on the maintenance right away including oil coolant spark plugs, etc.)
01-31-13, 11:41 PM
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Holy Cow,you posted 3 weeks ago,and you are just gonna get this now?.
Is it being guarded by large dogs or something?..someone must like you if it is still there!
Is it being guarded by large dogs or something?..someone must like you if it is still there!