powrdby13B

Okay, already searched... thats how i found out what vac shiziznit i can take off... and now I'm ready. My car doesn't start... best thing anyone can think of is a vac leak... check my pro and find the old threads if you wanna know that story LoL...
So, I decided to remove the beautiful spider... I can just take the solenoids off and run the vac lines like they would go if there is no solenoid, right?
What do I do here? can i just take this stuff off and the car will start? there's nothing else I have to do?
Then just plug the now unused vac nipples, right? can I use RTV for this? I'm about pissed at this car for not starting... and i guess this should make it work...

jeremie pryor

i did the same **** to my 1987 turbo 2 and it won't start now. the reason mines not starting is not really related to the vaccums though. my fuel pump isn't working. i think i have a wiring issue. check your fuel pump see if that thing is working. after that just see if you are getting fuel into the engine--jeremie

locketine

heh, that would be an excelent story. well I checked the vac lines and the ecu and the spark plugs..... a month later I realized the engine wasn't getting any fuel.

SureShot

It's the other way around - the car is pissed at you for missing something in your modifications.

BTW S4's don't fuss about missing solenoids like S5's do.

If you don't have to pass an emmissions test, the vac lines you want to keep are:
boost sensor (with the orifice pill in it)
fuel pressure regulator (direct from UIM to FPR)
brake booster
oil pan vent

WAYNE88N/A

Umm, no...What that accomplishes is the EGR valve being opened continuously (if it's still on there), and the ACV's relief and switching valves fighting each other for domination of flow (once the relief valve is supplied with vac continuously, the overboard air will cease to function, meaning all air pump air goes into the port air passages 100% of the time, because the switching valve is also "opened" continuously)...Unless all that stuff has been removed, too...

The FPR will, however, work normally, except during hot starts (intake air temp sensor >176*F or so)