Vacuum line?
Vacuum line?
I have looked at the vacuum diagram in the FSM and the only thing it shows is the tube in the picture should have a vacuum line from it to somewhere on the lower manifold. I have felt all around the manifold and can't find a nipple and of course I can't see down there very well.
Does anyone have a pic of the engine out or the manifold off that might show where this line is supposed to attach?
91 S5 NA.
Does anyone have a pic of the engine out or the manifold off that might show where this line is supposed to attach?
91 S5 NA.
if that last pic doesnt work man send me a pm and ill send you the actual workshop book diagram that should very well give you the exact lay out that your needing but i dont see why that one wouldnt work
Thanks for all your help guys. That colored diagram makes it much easier to see what goes where.
She idles perfect now.
I had just remembered that I had a complete engine and intake out in my storage unit(i'm an idiot) and noticed the vaccum line on the acv and just installed the line on the car.
The idle problem is cured. I have been driving it for over a year like that since I put the engine in and never, before today, noticed that tube with no line on it.
It would hunt up and down and I adjusted the TPS and it was always fine using the 2 led method. I had checked the vacuum and it was at 16in. which is a little low but I just figured the rotary might have lower vacuum that a piston engine. Turning on the a/c would kill the engine in gear.
I wish I had figured this out a year ago......woulda saved a lot of gas and frustration.
She idles perfect now.
I had just remembered that I had a complete engine and intake out in my storage unit(i'm an idiot) and noticed the vaccum line on the acv and just installed the line on the car.
The idle problem is cured. I have been driving it for over a year like that since I put the engine in and never, before today, noticed that tube with no line on it.
It would hunt up and down and I adjusted the TPS and it was always fine using the 2 led method. I had checked the vacuum and it was at 16in. which is a little low but I just figured the rotary might have lower vacuum that a piston engine. Turning on the a/c would kill the engine in gear.
I wish I had figured this out a year ago......woulda saved a lot of gas and frustration.
My 79 RX7's Tac pointer would bounce up to 1000 rpm's to 1500 plus and down again in less than a second time interval. The problem was not my wiring, it was the Distributor "Points Plate" that was lifting upwards by a 1/4 inch. Remove the 2 screws holding the plate down, and lube the bearing under it, and the weights also. (My bearing were bad, I did not feel a smooth rotation of the plate after lubeing it)...This lifting of the plate, caused the trailing points rub block to touch the cam prematurly, making the points open too soon. Test this by lifting the plate with your fingers at one end and watch to see if your points open and close. . .This opening made my RPM gauge to be unreadable, and Yes my timing was not the best and it really was the timing issue that led me to shim the plate which gave me a steady timing dwell and consequently a Tac that now reads steady. I shimmed the "Point Plate" with a thicker washer at the hold down screw, to hold it downwards preventing the 1/4 inch upward lifting, but, remember the plate must have a gap under it for the vacuum advances of the Leading & Trailing to move freely. Greg5656
My 79 RX7's Tac pointer would bounce up to 1000 rpm's to 1500 plus and down again in less than a second time interval. The problem was not my wiring, it was the Distributor "Points Plate" that was lifting upwards by a 1/4 inch. Remove the 2 screws holding the plate down, and lube the bearing under it, and the weights also. (My bearing were bad, I did not feel a smooth rotation of the plate after lubeing it)...This lifting of the plate, caused the trailing points rub block to touch the cam prematurly, making the points open too soon. Test this by lifting the plate with your fingers at one end and watch to see if your points open and close. . .This opening made my RPM gauge to be unreadable, and Yes my timing was not the best and it really was the timing issue that led me to shim the plate which gave me a steady timing dwell and consequently a Tac that now reads steady. I shimmed the "Point Plate" with a thicker washer at the hold down screw, to hold it downwards preventing the 1/4 inch upward lifting, but, remember the plate must have a gap under it for the vacuum advances of the Leading & Trailing to move freely. Greg5656
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Jeff20B
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