I have been reading countless posts on this, by NZConvertible, Hailers, and Rotaryrockstar, I still need help.

Of course it didnt run right on the first try.
It sputters, chokes down, doesnt idle, and when I hold my foot on the gas is stumbles and chokes until the engine speed is at 2000 RPMs.
My guess is that I have a big leak, or I misrouted something.
It sounds/smells just like when a few wires on my AFM were disconnected. Super lean.

My lines are 100% in the same order as everyone has. FPR is correct, and primary air bleed is correct. This is a Series4 TII BTW.

I put a cap on the EGR valve nipple, I did not block it off, bad idea?

Could this running condition be caused by a misrouted connectors, sensors, or wires? Could I have f-ed something up when putting my primary injectors back in the holes?

Where is a typical vacuum leak location??

 

(sigh)...Why do you guys do this to yourselves, lol...

Any number of things, vac leaks most likely, but are you sure you didn't break an injector plug contact, break the water thermo sensor contact, break the ground, or didn't bolt it back down on a good conductive surface, etc...

The EGR valve...hmmm, possibilty...If the diaphragm is ruptured...

Go for the vac leaks first...

 

The clip that actually goes on the injector? One was missing a metal clip(prior to this procedure), but I made sure it wasnt loose and wrapped wire around it the best I could....

Would an intake manifold(UIM to LIM) leak behave like this?

 

Have you done the carb cleaner method to locate any leaks? And if you feel so inclined I would recommend removing the egr and blocking it off just for peace of mind. It's only a few bucks for a plate. I have still been tackling my weird idle since I completed this project. It comes and goes. Though I think I finally fixed it. The things I did were... Adjusted the throttle cable and that solved the repetitive bouncing of the idle. Adjusted the TPS using the LED method and also adjusted the BAC valve idle screw... All this fixed it for a bit and then the idle jumped up to around 2000... Turned out the VAC caps that I had put on the front of the UIM and blasted off during driving... Got some new really tight fitting ones and some teeny hose clamps and that fixed that.... Runs great now! Be sure to check the upper left side of the ACV block plate, for a leak its good on mine but Kevin Landers and rotaryressurection.com says its a major culprit for vac leaks.
Also one other thing I had to figure out... Make sure your spacer inbetween the UIM and TB is orientated correctly.
Hope this helps!

 

If it does not run for flip til 2000,......I'd guess at a vacuum leak like you mentioned. The first place I'd look is at the fuel injectors IF you removed them. The grommets at the bottom of the injectors get rock hard after years of use and that is a good place for a leak if they are cocked a touch.

I can't say I like the wire around the injector idea. If the spring was broken, and I was to jury rig (waiting for Richard Head to ask me what I mean by jury rig) something, I'd get a tash of RTV and apply it around the edges of the connector and WAIT for it to dry for an hour or so before reinstallling the upper intake manifold.

The EGR? I question if that is a possibility even with the diaphram busted. Busted diaphram means to me the valve internal to it can't move. If it can't move, someone please tell me how exaust gas would get to the intake port???????????????????? Can't. Just cap off its nipple.

A broken water thermo sensor might give you some problem when the car is cold, but after it warms up I don't see it giving the problem you stated.

A leak b/t the bac's feed hose and the pipe that goes to the intercooler is a good place to leak if not clamped.

The check valve from the purge valve that is inserted into the back of the turbo inlet duct is a possibility. I know. I left it out the other day. Dummy day for me.

It's a vac leak if you put the plug wires back on where they belong and if you put the injector plugs back where they belong.

A rare possibility.......are the lead plugs firing? Don't care about trails too much. But trails alone give a little funky idle. Not what you describe though.

 

I did take out the Primary injectors to get to the hoses that are behind that rail.
I just need to make sure they are seated properly? Or if they are worn out(they are) would I have to replace them?

Everything seems to be in order, so the only place I could think of a vac leak would be between the UIM and LIM.

 

Ok, tell me if this is the culprit.
I took off my UIM (again) and took off the primary rail.
On the front primary injector, the "Pintle Cap" http://mazdatrix.com/c-6.htm (second to the last item) is not there. I could have sworn I put both back in.
I have no idea where it went.

I also left off the last item on the link above, the "Fuel Rail Space/Insulator". Which I have.
This is the problem I am assuming?

 

A missing pintle cap would definetly cause some form of leak. The spacer is there so that the injectors fit "squarely" into the fuel rail, and having that missing will cause problems too, including having pressurized fuel squeezing past the injector o-rings and making a mess...

 

Without the black spacer, the injectors will not fit square into the bore. That probably is the cause of your air leak/rough idle at low rpms. The pintle cap should be replaced.....but until you can get another just put the injector back in without it. You won't notice it missing. While the injector is out, feel the lower grommet. If it is rock hard....order some new ones. You can put the rock hard ones back in for now, along with the black spacer. Maybe a smear of RTV on either side of the rock hard grommet. Use judgement in the amount. You don't want squeezeout into the injector bore.

Yes...no spacer equals injectors leaking at the bottom and allowing unauthorized air into the intake. The higher rev's over two grand mask this unauthorized air leak.

 

Bingo.

Well nobody (NAPA, and even a specialty import parts house in DFW) has the caps, and Mazda wants me to buy the whole injector (~$100) to get those parts.
So I ordered all new upper/lower grommets, o-rings, and of course...pintle caps from Mazdatrix(lifesaver).
I'll get all new parts in, and put the damned plastic spacer on the primary rail.
Thanks for all the help.

 

Got the parts in yesterday (pricey 1-Day Air shipping).
Threw everything on, checked for fuel leaks, got the new UIM to LIM gasket on, bolted everything up.
Vrroom, fired up, idles, revved smoothly.

I had the orginal UIM to LIM gasket on, which was also the cause to a HUGE vacuum leak. All those injector parts NEEDED to be replaced as well. All of the grommets, caps (except the o-rings) cracked to pieces when I was taking them off the old injectors.