Alright...so I've got a couple IC pipes that want to blow off on my FMIC setup. I really have no where around here (out in the middle of the country) to get my pipes bead rolled on the end, but I've heard of using JB weld to make your own beads on the ends of the pipes. Is this an OK thing to do? I haven't used JB weld much but it seems like it may break off eventually...which I don't imagine would be good getting sucked into your motor. So has anybody done this? Did you just scuff up the end of the pipe and make a bead around it or what? Are there any other options?

 

Weld them.

 

i would avoid it if possible, if a piece breaks off it will be going through your motor.

just rough up the clamping surfaces and use a strong adhesive that does not cure solid like epoxy but more like weatherstrip adhesive.

or do what ^ said

 

+1

weld a nice bead around

 

I'll have to see if I can find a shop around that can weld a bead on. I know nothing about welding...but I've herad this piping is very thin and hard to weld....now would that be referring to welding the piping together or any such welding on this piping?

 

depends if it is aluminum or a mild steel, either is weldable but aluminum will be somewhat pricier, i paid $95 for 4 welds on 2mm Al piping last week to give you an idea.

 

yep...it's aluminum (one of the kits off ebay)

 

you can bead roll the aluminum stuff pretty easily ...

 

ive heard that you can make your own make shift beadroller with a vice-grip pliers, a grinder and a welder. your weld a small bead on one side of the grip, grind a matching groove in the other and clamp away. i havent tried this yet but hey its worth a shot

 

You would be welding a bead for the coupler; same thing you wanted to do w/ JB weld, but an actual bead of weld.

 

huh??

 

heres some info you might find useful
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/e...icpipebead.htm

 

use the modified vice grip to crimp the outer edge of the piping. the added bead and groove you made on the vicegrip will stretch the piping effectively making a beadroll. it will be tedious work to go all the way around the piping (or at least close).

 

thanks for the link bryan, thats exactly what i was talking about!

 

You can do the same with a hammer and chisel.

Or someone with an exhaust shop who has a pipe bender/flare tool with 5 extra minutes.

Many ways to skin the cat here. You just want to provide a surface with a larger diameter to prevent the coupler from sliding off. It should be more durable then jb weld or anything of the sort however.

****, I bet I could do it with a hammer and no chisel on aluminum

 

Now i understand

 

I just use some vice grips and latch onto the end of the pipe and bend outward slightly. work your way around the pipe to make it even all around. Just make sure you dont go too far or the aluminum will rip. then you just take a dremel to the edge to smooth out any rough/sharp spots and viola

 

So you pretty much flared the ends out?

 

^^this is how idid all of mine and it has held up to a 60-1 pushing 15 psi all day as long as you ease into boost a couple times before you just go WOT.

you should also clean the areas real good and spray some hair spray on there, then go out and cruise for a lil while not getting into boost too much....this will let the couplers slightly adhease to the piping the hair spray will help hold them in place.

 

bend the end slightly around with a pair of vise grips thats what i did

 

hmm...this may be an option...I found a place in town that said they can weld beads around it they think. They want to look at the pipe to see if it's thick enough to work with. Depending on what they say as far as price...I may just flare it out with the vice grips as a few of you guys have done.

 

most places won't be interested in welding the thin ebay stuff and the way i posted is a lot cheaper and just as good.

 

lol good luck if u get the jb weld sucked into your engine on accident

 

I just went and used a scrap piece to try and flare the ends...looks like it works really well...there is a nice 1/2" even flare the whole way around...and just took a couple minutes with a pair of pliers. I'm going to do the 2 problem spots I've been having and see how it goes. Thanks for the idea!

 

yea...i pretty much decided against that from stuff I was reading on other forums...and this flare trick looks like it will work really well and doesn't cost me be a couple minutes per pipe.