Upgrading clutch line - Good then nothing.
08-05-15, 11:55 PM
#1
Upgrading clutch line - Good then nothing.
Hello, I spent all weekend doing upgrades and re-wiring my S5-FC3S, I was about to finish up and do all my fluids and try out my "new"-used turbo.
Last step was to bleed my clutch: after replacing with a APP stainless steel line. I had a bit more then minimal level of break fluid and started to loosen and bleed it.
ISSUE: Started to bleed clutch and regained pressure (1/2way)then all of a sudden I lost it all - like when you start to bleed after a few kicks opening and closing, presses to build and release.
Anyone have any ideas? No visible leaks on slave, and it's pressed against fork. I can check with the stock line that was working to insure the new one is poor quality and doesn't accept stock fittings.
Anyone else got any ideas? *Was working OK, but needed to upgrade to SS*
(Currently you pump and get air/fluid mix, but no pressure builds up even after 30-40presses with my hand, as no return pressure is present.
Last step was to bleed my clutch: after replacing with a APP stainless steel line. I had a bit more then minimal level of break fluid and started to loosen and bleed it.
ISSUE: Started to bleed clutch and regained pressure (1/2way)then all of a sudden I lost it all - like when you start to bleed after a few kicks opening and closing, presses to build and release.
Anyone have any ideas? No visible leaks on slave, and it's pressed against fork. I can check with the stock line that was working to insure the new one is poor quality and doesn't accept stock fittings.
Anyone else got any ideas? *Was working OK, but needed to upgrade to SS*
(Currently you pump and get air/fluid mix, but no pressure builds up even after 30-40presses with my hand, as no return pressure is present.
08-06-15, 12:51 AM
#2
For some reason people seem to have more trouble bleeding clutches than brakes...chances are you just have air in there still.
Take a break and let gravity do the work for you:
Put a nice long (2-3') tube on the slave bleed nipple and extend it upwards, above the level of the master reservoir. Pour in a bit of fluid, a few inches above the nipple will do.You can tape the end of the tube to the windshield.
Crack open the bleed nipple, fill the master cylinder and go to bed.
Air wants to rise to the highest point and by morning all the little bubbles you created by pumping will have coalesced into bigger bubbles, most of which will have escaped either up the tube or back to the MC.
First thing in the morning, close the bleed nipple on the slave.
At the master cylinder, wrap the hardline fitting in a rag and quickly loosen/tighten the fitting.
If there was an air bubble caught there, you probably got it.
Now try slowly bleeding normally.
Take a break and let gravity do the work for you:
Put a nice long (2-3') tube on the slave bleed nipple and extend it upwards, above the level of the master reservoir. Pour in a bit of fluid, a few inches above the nipple will do.You can tape the end of the tube to the windshield.
Crack open the bleed nipple, fill the master cylinder and go to bed.
Air wants to rise to the highest point and by morning all the little bubbles you created by pumping will have coalesced into bigger bubbles, most of which will have escaped either up the tube or back to the MC.
First thing in the morning, close the bleed nipple on the slave.
At the master cylinder, wrap the hardline fitting in a rag and quickly loosen/tighten the fitting.
If there was an air bubble caught there, you probably got it.
Now try slowly bleeding normally.
08-06-15, 03:32 AM
#3
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Here's a crazy thing to check. ...it has happened . Under the bleeder screw, check if there's a hole. Seriously. It has happened to me. I believe it was a Centric part.
It doesn't take much to push out fluid.
It doesn't take much to push out fluid.
08-07-15, 07:46 PM
#4
I was doing everything correctly, but!
My issue was fluid related, ièd imagine someone in the past put something less then normal brake fluid and left it sit: Old/Cheap
Issue was fluid in MASTER
Setup:
APP SS clutch line
ORC 409 Clutch kit with Carbon fiber friction disc
Fluid prestone 3 syn brake fluid (not good for Carbon fiber either can burn off)
Plastic hose helped me save fluid: me kicking over fluid in container and spilling it everywhere isn't helping me save fluid.
My issue was fluid related, ièd imagine someone in the past put something less then normal brake fluid and left it sit: Old/Cheap
Issue was fluid in MASTER
Setup:
APP SS clutch line
ORC 409 Clutch kit with Carbon fiber friction disc
Fluid prestone 3 syn brake fluid (not good for Carbon fiber either can burn off)
Plastic hose helped me save fluid: me kicking over fluid in container and spilling it everywhere isn't helping me save fluid.
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