update - miata cupholder mod - cuphold is in :)
12-16-01, 06:41 PM
#1
knowledge junkie
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update - miata cupholder mod - cuphold is in :)
Well I've got the cupholder in finally and it works great. This is the miata "pop-in" cupholder and it consists of the cupholder itself, a drip guard that goes underneath, and a coffey cup adapter that goes in one of the holes.
Shifting is a bit interesting with the "big gulp" in there, but it does look VERY OEM which is the goal I've been shooting for. This should also work better than other cupholder mods I've seen like the one where you screw into the back of the armrest one of those window seal cheap @$$ cupholders.
Up next is moving the power window & fog lamp controls underneath the armrest top and then modifying the leather armrest top so the OEM security alarm flasher show's through.
Here's a quick rundown of things you have to do (off the top of my head).
.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are a few mods you definitly need to make, especially if you have AUTO-seat belts like me. To start obviously the OEM armrest switch console has to go, but keep it for a cutting template. Pull it out by gripping the change holder compartments (volume controls on the convertible & auto-suspension on the GXL).
Basically you have to shift the armrest back 3/4" so the cupholder fits. With the autobelts that requires cutting/removing the change holder underneath the armrest, cutting the bottom out of the armrest hole where the screws bolt to the transmission tunnel so the armrest will sit flush with the trans. tunnel (but leave a 1" surround as you'll need to cut a replacement bottom to fit in there), removing a 2.5" section out of the front of the armrest next to shifter so your drink cup can go in the cup holder hole, making a 3"x1.25" extender/space so the front screw holes have something to bolt to (and you bolt the extender to the shifter's scew holes), remove that little 1/4" line up/pop in OEM tab underneath the armrest towards the front so it will sit flush, cut/extend where the passenger's side seat belt reinforcement arm goes underneath the armrest (so the armrest can slide back 3/4" and still sit flush), instal a replacement arm rest hole bottom (make your own) and use some 5mm x 2.5" screws to bolt the bottom of the arm rest to the trans tunnel, etc.. Be sure to use washers on those screws so they don't push through your new plastic arm rest bottom.
Note I'm planning on installing a plexiglass piece between the arm rest top and base (important when you have the autobelts) as a spacer for the switches. It also covers up the hole where you removed the OEM change holder. Shifting the arm rest back 3/4" does give you space to fit the console switches inside the arm rest, but it's a VERY tight fit. The plexiglass should give me some breathing room. The console switches have to go to the very back of the auto-seat belt arm rest right before the hole. You'll also need to cut the arm rest top's undersection so the swtiches don't prevent the thing from closing. Use some nice gaffers cloth tape to conseal those new holes but give you enough play so the thing will close.
I'm planning on covering the plexiglas with some black "spray on rubber grip" so it will look nice and OEM. Hopefully some of those all-plastic push tack thingies you find at any autoparts store will hold the plexiglass down to the base. I'll have to extend the hinges & lock up about 1/8" so the thing will close, so I'll probably have to make some custom spacers there and use longer wood screw type bolts.
-- oh yeah, you'll have to extend the wiring harness underneath the auto-seat belt thingy. That requires some 18 gague wire, some inline-crimps that also have insulators on them, and some of that 1/2" wire ducting. This you can get from Radio Shack. The plexglass & spray on rubber grip is at most hardware stores (lowes, home depot, west, etc..)
Of course you'll also need a STRONG box cutting knife, a dril to make holes, a jig saw (use the drill to start the jig saw holes), some 5mm screws or bolts (8mm heads), screw driver or ratchet set, etc...
I should mention the plexiglass works best if you make 2 passes with the box cutter knife and then fold it where you made the cuts so it will break evenly.
I'm also thinking of replacing the plastic frame underneath the armrest lid since those lids tend to crack over time and gives the leather surface an uneaven feel.
Overall this is going to look VERY OEM.
I'd recommend getting a salvaged arm rest for your type of rx7 (ie auto-belt, manual belt, convertible armrest, etc..) to work with. Nothing worse than screwing up the OEM one
-- vaughnc
1992 FC3S Turbo II RX-7 - Midnight Blue
Shifting is a bit interesting with the "big gulp" in there, but it does look VERY OEM which is the goal I've been shooting for. This should also work better than other cupholder mods I've seen like the one where you screw into the back of the armrest one of those window seal cheap @$$ cupholders.
Up next is moving the power window & fog lamp controls underneath the armrest top and then modifying the leather armrest top so the OEM security alarm flasher show's through.
Here's a quick rundown of things you have to do (off the top of my head).
.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are a few mods you definitly need to make, especially if you have AUTO-seat belts like me. To start obviously the OEM armrest switch console has to go, but keep it for a cutting template. Pull it out by gripping the change holder compartments (volume controls on the convertible & auto-suspension on the GXL).
Basically you have to shift the armrest back 3/4" so the cupholder fits. With the autobelts that requires cutting/removing the change holder underneath the armrest, cutting the bottom out of the armrest hole where the screws bolt to the transmission tunnel so the armrest will sit flush with the trans. tunnel (but leave a 1" surround as you'll need to cut a replacement bottom to fit in there), removing a 2.5" section out of the front of the armrest next to shifter so your drink cup can go in the cup holder hole, making a 3"x1.25" extender/space so the front screw holes have something to bolt to (and you bolt the extender to the shifter's scew holes), remove that little 1/4" line up/pop in OEM tab underneath the armrest towards the front so it will sit flush, cut/extend where the passenger's side seat belt reinforcement arm goes underneath the armrest (so the armrest can slide back 3/4" and still sit flush), instal a replacement arm rest hole bottom (make your own) and use some 5mm x 2.5" screws to bolt the bottom of the arm rest to the trans tunnel, etc.. Be sure to use washers on those screws so they don't push through your new plastic arm rest bottom.
Note I'm planning on installing a plexiglass piece between the arm rest top and base (important when you have the autobelts) as a spacer for the switches. It also covers up the hole where you removed the OEM change holder. Shifting the arm rest back 3/4" does give you space to fit the console switches inside the arm rest, but it's a VERY tight fit. The plexiglass should give me some breathing room. The console switches have to go to the very back of the auto-seat belt arm rest right before the hole. You'll also need to cut the arm rest top's undersection so the swtiches don't prevent the thing from closing. Use some nice gaffers cloth tape to conseal those new holes but give you enough play so the thing will close.
I'm planning on covering the plexiglas with some black "spray on rubber grip" so it will look nice and OEM. Hopefully some of those all-plastic push tack thingies you find at any autoparts store will hold the plexiglass down to the base. I'll have to extend the hinges & lock up about 1/8" so the thing will close, so I'll probably have to make some custom spacers there and use longer wood screw type bolts.
-- oh yeah, you'll have to extend the wiring harness underneath the auto-seat belt thingy. That requires some 18 gague wire, some inline-crimps that also have insulators on them, and some of that 1/2" wire ducting. This you can get from Radio Shack. The plexglass & spray on rubber grip is at most hardware stores (lowes, home depot, west, etc..)
Of course you'll also need a STRONG box cutting knife, a dril to make holes, a jig saw (use the drill to start the jig saw holes), some 5mm screws or bolts (8mm heads), screw driver or ratchet set, etc...
I should mention the plexiglass works best if you make 2 passes with the box cutter knife and then fold it where you made the cuts so it will break evenly.
I'm also thinking of replacing the plastic frame underneath the armrest lid since those lids tend to crack over time and gives the leather surface an uneaven feel.
Overall this is going to look VERY OEM.
I'd recommend getting a salvaged arm rest for your type of rx7 (ie auto-belt, manual belt, convertible armrest, etc..) to work with. Nothing worse than screwing up the OEM one
-- vaughnc
1992 FC3S Turbo II RX-7 - Midnight Blue
Last edited by vaughnc; 12-16-01 at 06:51 PM.
12-16-01, 09:08 PM
#4
Laying Down Rotary Law
12-16-01, 09:52 PM
#6
knowledge junkie
Thread Starter
Yep waiting for the sony cybershot 2.1 Megapixel to drop to $300. I could buy a cheap @$$ HP or Kodac, but they SUCK with nighttime shots. No exposure, digi-film speed equivalent, flash level, lenses, etc.. that I need
kabooski,
Looks like a general error to me. Maby they're chaning their ISP. I better get all my pics off their site when the do come back up though just in case
kabooski,
Looks like a general error to me. Maby they're chaning their ISP. I better get all my pics off their site when the do come back up though just in case
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Jeff20B
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