jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

well, for whatever reason, the fuel pump was not getting power... so since the sumbitch wasn't pumping any fuel, the car was just burning the gas that was in the lines i guess.... we ran a wire straight from the battery to the fuel pump and heard the walbro start to pimp it. so we started the ************ up and i drove it back to campus. I am still looking for any suggestions as to why the car is not telling the fuel pump to come online when the ignition is on (while that little plug is jumpered) Also, it obviously is not coming on when i turn the car over, so i dont know what to think... any suggestions are welcome.

Rpeck

Check the fuses under the dash. 3rd row up, second from the left 15 amp controls the fuel pump on a S4 .. prolly the same on a S5 but not sure.

hypntyz7

Man, dont even worry about all that. The stock turbo fuelpump wiring is not the best thing in the world anyway. It limits voltage to 9vdc at idle adn cruise, and only ups it to 13 about 2-3 seconds into WOT.

Most everyone who mods a t2 rewires their circuit...especially if you have or want a fuel cut switch which is handy to have.

FInd a switched positive terminal in your inside fusebox and tap into it. run this lead to your switch(if you have it installed) then back to the fuelpump. Cut the stock lead and cap both ends off. Hook in your lead, and youre done. Now you have power when the ignition is on, full power at all times, and no bullshit relays and microswitches to worry about. Case closed.
IT is both a reliability mod and a simpler way of doing things at one time.

XimbueX

Does the car start up for a second or two and then die? There's a switch in the AFM that will cut the fuel pump off right after startup if it goes bad.

Matt Ford

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

hmm. that is a good idea... do you know of any of the terminals i can tap into offhand so i dont have to go around and tinker around with a multimeter to find one?

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

all the fuses are in tact.

XimbueX

well, I know the test procedure is in the factory shop manual. I can't remember if that was conclusive for me or not. In the meantime, while you try to hunt down another AFM, instead of wiring your fuel pump straight to your battery, you can wire it up to a switched ignition source in your hatch, like the hot wire to the rear speaker amp or something like that.

Matt Ford