I have removed all three thingies on the UIM/LIM, but re-added the BAC.

I also removed all on the throttle-body, dashpot, double butterflies.

I added back the BAC, still the same issues, so apparently something else affects my idle.

There is no vac leak, TPS is new, and tested 100% okay by me and P.O. of the TPS.

 

Is the TPS properly adjusted?

 

judging by that "word" im guessing you have missed something basic, or as mentioned the TPS needs to be adjusted

 

You start removing parts from your engine and Yes,it is not going to run as before.
Try Resetting your TPS as stated.
(TPS is new, and tested 100% okay by me and P.O. of the TPS......???...Previous owner of a new tps?)

 

I said new as a working one, compared to my old non-working one. It was tested by him, I tested it on the car, ran a sweep, 1-5k ohm and all that, it is adjusted, car runs fine.

What I am asking is if the double butterflies, the dashpot or anything of that manner on the throttle body can make the cars idle unstable? In theory, it should be enough with the BAC and a properly adjust TPS.

 

you may have a VAC leak.

 

If you removed the double throttle butterflies, then you probably removed the shaft. There is probably a leak there. You also need to verify there is 1.000 volt going to the ecu (Test the green/red wire @ TPS to ground)

While I understand why some think this modification is going to do anything, I'm going to let you know right now that it won't. The transition off throttle suffers... badly. Removing the dashpot only helps your car die because it's supposed to soften the "landing" of the throttle when you snap it shut. Taking it off will literally do no good. Anything else you think you can do to the throttle body to try to make more power will only harm every bit of driveability you had, and in no way increase HP enough to make much of a difference. I ported the everloving hell out of my throttle body, and had no noticeable change in power. I did that because I was bored. I can also tune my ECU to account for the modifications.

 

Same thing happen to me. You need to check the clearance between the primary throttle plate and the throttle bore. I don't remember the spec off the top of my head but its in the fsm.

--Joe

 

after reading your other thread i would recommend just doing a compression test. might already be too late.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...5-tii-1016467/

 

[QUOTE=RotaryEvolution;11273540]after reading your other thread i would recommend just doing a compression test. might already be too late.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...5-tii-1016467/[/QU

Me 2...i see a part out thread very soon............

 

I have been warned again and again about ******** on this forum. And yes, there is plenty. And all read between the lines, not what I am writing at all.

The emissions and idle systems on the *IM were removed in stupidity. The double butterflies were removed when I had other issues, and this was last resort.

The shaft is still in there.

As for compression, it was 110psi last time I tested it as per every guide on how to test it found on the internet. Now you will say that it probably is **** low because that's how it is, I tested it a month ago, due to what I thought was a bad seal.

So, are we done ******* around, and ready to get some ******* proper answers?

And no, it is not a vac leak, that I have tested so thoroughly when checking compression, it is not.


EDIT: And if my car was ever to break down, I would never ever sell my parts to people that are on this forum. And you might see I live in Norway anyways. I'd rather take the 500$ I get from the scrapyard than parting it out to send it halfway around the world, I would never ever earn more than 500$ sending it, as no one would buy stuff with 100$ shipping. Oh wait, that is what I have to do when I need parts.

 

Have you verified that the BAC is functional? Can you post a video of your idle so we know what the car is actually doing?

No one is trying to bust your ***** or going out of their way to be ******** to you. There have been numerous people on the forum that have tried running their car like you are (larger exhaust, stock fuel, stock ECU, stock wastegate) that have lost engines. I guarantee you can find a few people that didnt blow their engine, but are you really confident that the 9 out of 10 people on this forum that are telling you your setup isnt safe have no idea what they're talking about? Why not play it safe until you upgrade the necessary components for a proven reliable setup? And try to learn how to take advice without assuming everyone is an *******. The majority of the guys here dont give a **** about you, they care about your rx7 so dont take the criticism/advice so personally.

 

don't get all pissy because in the other thread you were wrong about tuning fuel. not like everyone there was trying to stab you with a fork, they were trying to point you in the right direction and then after seeing this thread i simply added 2 and 2 together.

the ONLY other thing YOU may have dicked up would be the injectors or fuel system while under the intake manifold. a vacuum leak, which you adamately say is not there, low compression which you say was tested but before or after the idle issue? and lastly ignition, bad plugs or wires or somehow you fucked up the timing while working on the car, was the CAS loosened/removed?

don't get all bent when people point out flaws to your arguments otherwise no one will want to help you. sometimes you have to take your licks to learn the lesson, in this case it was modding a car properly versus improperly. you cannot just add a boost controller and FCD and crank your boost up to 11-13psi without getting **** for it, EVER, thinking your fuel is somehow better than the rest of the world's making it safe. because that is a recipe for turning one of these cars into a brick. some of us have spent the last 10 years of our lives writing everyday not to do that, understand that after all that effort seeing it happen time and time again anyone would be annoyed.

 

The test for vacuum leaks includes using a volatile substance sprayed around intake areas. You can use brake cleaner, throttle body/intake cleaner, carburetor cleaner, or even a propane torch with a long hose attached to reach the hard to get areas. A visual inspection cannot suffice.

Do an actual test for vacuum leaks first, check for 1.000 volts at the specified green/red wire coming from the TPS, check the timing, verify the "high tension leads", otherwise known as plug wires, are in their proper locations.

The BAC can be a culprit, but usually that will fail in the shut position. So you'll have stalling issues, not surging idle issues.

 

You try to help it, it growls and bites.

Been there done that.

 

You said you have an unstable item. This is not specific. What exactly is it doing and when?

 

This thread is pretty useful. I to have removed everything from my motor, all emissions, stripped the TB, removed the butterflies. Now I can't get my car to idle on its own, it smokes horrible out the exhuast, and I am extremely lean. My motor and Turbo had less then 1k on since rebuild. I just want to say thanks for all the advice everyone is giving on what to look for.

 

OP got a beat-down from the ban hammer. Don't think he's going to be answering any time soon.

 

All the complicated throttle body stuff is there because this is an 80s car. Any modern car with electronic throttle doesn't need mechanical dashpots, idle air/bypass air control solenoids, fast idle valves, etc.

The emissions stuff is there because the old rotary engines don't have a low & stable idle without secondary air injection. It is due to exhaust gases from the peripheral exhaust ports mixing back in with the intake air. Besides its emissions function, the air pump is there to cycle fresh air back into the intake stroke and help smooth out the idle.

If you take that stuff off, the car is going to idle worse. It will also simplify the engine bay greatly, but that's the tradeoff.