sintri

wow, that's some pretty weird tires

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Wow, you need oem sized tires. Seriously.

Rotarctica

Those wheels are fugly. Please take them off...

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

I don't think the wheels are that bad, the tires just need to be of the stock diameter.

Rotarctica

Yeah, I guess the wheels look okay...it's the rivet lookin' things I dislike. For some reason, they just don't fit with the look of the car.

Supersize the sidewalls and slap some shine on them.

Oogly Boogly

left foot braking...

SSRx7

When I had the vert on the track, there is a decreasing radius turn to the right that starts out from a 90* and flow out into the back strait. I pushed that corner every time I tried to turn harder. I tried to tap the clutch, left foot braking, etc. The backend just would not come loose. I think that my problem was that I was coming out of the 90 too shallow, with not enough snap. I wasn't going for a drift, just trying to get the front to quit pushing.

Of couse, I have 205/65R15 Toyo Spectrums on the stock BBS's so that may be part of the problem. But I think most of it is just my driving skill, just not enough experience on the track. That and the 13B NA just doesn't have the grunt to push the back end out.
But that is ok, it cruises into the triple digits like it rides on air rails: smooth and responsive.

I read something about camber eliminators or something like that for the rear end. What are those and what do they do? One thing I noticed is that my rear tires look like they have alot of negative camber to them....

When I was at the track, someone told me to look where the tire is riding the tread. in otherwords, how far down the edge of the tread is it contacting the pavement. If you notice at the edge of your tread, there are little arrows molded into the rubber. Your wear pattern on your tread should be right at the point of these arrows. You raise or lower you air pressure until you get it to that point. Is there any validity in this?? I always wondered what those arrows were for..

Maybe this will help.

Later,
Bill

rotorpower27

yeah, i would like to get new tires on the rims, but there is still plenty of rubber left on them, i might just try to sell the tires and rims, and go get some oem from the junkyard or sumthing

im not looking for the car to be sideways in every turn, i would just like it to be neutral, atleast. you can get in serious trouble if the car pushes to much, there is nothing you can do to avoid anything when ur front tires are sliding

blackB

Heh... I had the same issue with the rear hatch. It turns out that the previous owner replaced the hatch glass and never bolted it to the lightgate. Check that, some of them are covered by plastic tabs.

RETed

I agree - LEARN HOW TO DRIVE.
Else, SELL THE CAR.

For someone who comes barging in here proclaim that they can drive, I bet you really can't.
Real good drivers do not brag how they can drive.
First clue.

Second, you command of the English language is pathetic.
Learn use caps, or is your keyboard broken?
Punctuation is sporadic and poor.
Run-on sentences are numerous.
Grammar is bad.

Which pegs you as some hick kid who thinks they can drive, or you're some rich punk who likes to toy with us common folk.
So which is it?
Whatever you are, you're a troll.

If you're so good of a driver that you got nice vids of you driving around showing your skills, why are you so poor?
If your driving skills are so good, you must be winning races?
That's gotta be enough money to get a decent suspension...
Oh wait, you're ******* with a ~20 year old vehicle, so something doesn't make any sense...
Or are you some talented Cole Trickle from the movie Days of Thunder - drive like hell but has no clue how to set-up suspension?
Most good drivers do have a clue on how suspension works, so either you're lying or you suck at driving...

Again, whatever you are, you're a troll wasting our time.

BTW, I still think you can't drive.


-Ted

rx7 FC TII

iTrader: (3)

^

Black91n/a

When cornering hard you want the tire to roll over to the arrows, not when driving around town.

Understeer on a track driven car isn't all bad, it's easy to control and is safer than oversteer.

Vagrant02

mess with the tire pressure and get some suspension or springs.

Rotarctica

DTSS Delete Bushings... DTSS stands for Dynamic Tracking Suspension System. Essentially 'rear-steer'. FCs have this to help cornering stability. Unfortunately, so someone who doesn't know this, it *can* feel like the rear end is coming out from under you when it really isn't...at least that's how I've always described it. People usually buy them when the system wears out and the rear end gets squirrelly, or to set the car up for drifting. For Autocrossing, I'd keep the DTSS if it were me.

Try giving the car a bit of flick; 'Scandinavian Flick' as it's called in the Rally world. Before the corner, turn the wrong way into the corner then quickly flick it the right way. So if it were a right hand corner, flick it left and then right, harder. This upsets the car's handling and kicks the rear end out a bit, depending on how hard you flick it. Couple that with abruptly lifting off the throttle and the back end comes out in no time.. Grab a few cones and an empty parking lot, go work with it.

rotorpower27

Why are you putting all of your effort to type that **** up, if you don’t like they way I am just ignore me, and maybe try to help people. This forum is to ask questions, not act like you’re the king of the forum.

Just because I race doesn’t mean I have money to spend on my own projects, and if you think you make money by racing, you don’t know anything about racing.

I was just wondering if there was a simple fix that could be done to this car to free it up a bit, but if there isn’t anything like that then say so.

Thank you to people that gave some helpful input.

bacek

ted i usually agree with your forum nazisms, but if your going to basha guy about grammar at least be grammatically correct when doing so.


OTOH i agree with everything else you said

JasonDowney

iTrader: (1)

Though I don't know much about rx-7s, I do know quite a lot about suspension setup.

Here are some things that will increase your steering:
Decrease the amount of toe in for the rear
Increase the toe out in the front
Decrease the camber in the rear
Increase the camber in the front
Move the posision of the front shocks inward
Move the rear shocks outward
Increase the spring rate of the rear shocks
decrease ride-height in the front
increase the weight in the front
Decrease the wheelbase
Removal/decrease in size of the front roll bar
Increase castor

I dont know which of these can be done within a reasonable budget, but all will increase the steering based off of the dynamics of the suspension.

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

Enter the turn you are pushing in slower, get the car rotated, apply throttle as you unwind the steering.

If you can't remember that when driving then why not add a second stock rear bar(cheap) with some fabrication required.

Just because your car oversteers for you doesn't mean it is the fast way around the track. In the end seat time with instruction is the best thing to make a car faster.

JasonDowney

iTrader: (1)

Agreed.

Corrected Statments:
Quote:
Originally Posted by RETed(corrected by jasondowney)

Second, your command of the English language is pathetic.
Learn use capital letters; is your keyboard possibly broken?
Your punctuation is sporadic and poor.
Run-on sentences are numerous throughout your writing.
Your grammar is bad.


Not to mention your common use of being verbs makes the english language appear more dumb than in reality.

Just playin' with you rted

ra ra rotory

Just something that hasnt really been brought up yet. Are you tires the same width front and rear?

When I had 17's on my car I had a 215 up front, and 235's in the back. I hated it. Pushed horribly in the front. Now I run the vert bbs's with 215's all the way around, and its way more balanced. (who'd a known, der )

Anyway, The best way to help yourself would be to slightly DROP the front tire pressure, and either slightly raise or keep stock rear tire pressure. Just mix around with those options untill you get a good balanced steering setup. Tire pressure makes a HUGE difference as im sure you know.

If you dont want to do that stuff, than, start spending money on different sway bar setups, and adjustable suspensions like some of the other forum members have suggested.

On another note. When I just had the front sway bar, I noticed the car pushed more than when I had the combination front and rear. But, I could have just been loosing it.

Goodluck
-Adam

Valkyrie

That stands to reason... bigger front bars cause understeer and bigger rear bars cause oversteer. But anti-sway bars aren't there to increase grip, they're there to keep the body from leaning and to at least partially prevent the LOSS of grip due to such.

If you took off the rear bar it would definately make the car understeer... just like having only a rear bar would make it oversteer.

turboeric

The best advice so far. Understeer (or push) is due to the front tires having relatively less grip than the rears at that particular moment. The most common cause of understeer is entering the corner too fast, which overwhelms the traction available for turn in. Once the fronts start to slide, they can't generate enough grip to provide a stable point for the rears to rotate around.

Slow down the corner entry and get on the power very early, which will bring the rear around. If that doesn't counter the understeer enough, start working through Jason Downey's list - all of those will help as well. The racing maxim 'slow in, fast out' has stood the test of time for a reason. It works.

rotorpower27

I’m running 205/40R17 all the way around. The tire rubber compound is soft for a street tire.
I’m going to try 30psi in the front and 40psi in the back. I have been running 40psi all around; the tires are rated at a max of 50psi.

I will see how that works.

It could also be that maybe my rear sway bar bushings are not as good as the front. I guess that would have a similar effect of removing the rear sway bar.

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

You might want to try going down to lower psi in the rear instead of the front, or take the fronts up to what they are rated for and leave the rears at 40. There is a point where things work backwards but if the tire is rated for 50psi if you go lower it will let the tire "squirm" around more. Only a pyrometer will tell you if you are getting the most out of the tires at either end of the car.

ra ra rotory

I disagree. I ran my 17's at 42psi for a while, and noticed them wear very fast in the center. In my opinion. I would try.. something like.. 32-34 in the front. and than 36-38ish in the back. I think that would be a good place to start, than adjust from there. A lower tire pressure in the front will increase traction. And higher in the back, will decrease traction. Thats how iv always understood it. Correct me if im wrong.

And a correction on my previous post. Iv never had sway bars on my car (although, I agree they make more of a difference, and are the quality way to go) I was reffering to strut tower bars. It seemed to push slightly more with just the front installed, and with both front and rear install, it seemed more sturdy and well balanced. But, like I said before, I could be loosing it, and understand that strut tower bars make little difference anyway.