underheating problem? how long does it take to reach operating temp?
05-20-12, 10:27 PM
#26
i just thought of something else interesting.. the original t.stat that i had in the car(not oem) would rest at 140* most of the time which i now concluded must have been 180*..
and upon replacing it with an oem t.stat from mazdatrix.. it now rests at 160* most of the time which must actually be 200*.. what the hell is going on?!
that means the non-oem one was working better?!
and upon replacing it with an oem t.stat from mazdatrix.. it now rests at 160* most of the time which must actually be 200*.. what the hell is going on?!
that means the non-oem one was working better?!
You've already conclusively shown that the gauge is not reading correctly, yet you still use it as a worry goad.
The damn gauge is fucked up, nothing it tells you can be relied on. There is no reason to assume that 160° (displayed)= 180° (actual) or that the error is consistent through the range.
A $30 VDO Vision gauge/sending unit is more than accurate enough (and certainly better than what you got...) and should give you logical data to further worry about.
05-20-12, 10:33 PM
#28
What is wrong with you?
You've already conclusively shown that the gauge is not reading correctly, yet you still use it as a worry goad.
The damn gauge is fucked up, nothing it tells you can be relied on. There is no reason to assume that 160° (displayed)= 180° (actual) or that the error is consistent through the range.
A $30 VDO Vision gauge/sending unit is more than accurate enough (and certainly better than what you got...) and should give you logical data to further worry about.
You've already conclusively shown that the gauge is not reading correctly, yet you still use it as a worry goad.
The damn gauge is fucked up, nothing it tells you can be relied on. There is no reason to assume that 160° (displayed)= 180° (actual) or that the error is consistent through the range.
A $30 VDO Vision gauge/sending unit is more than accurate enough (and certainly better than what you got...) and should give you logical data to further worry about.
05-20-12, 10:41 PM
#31
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And I said, what is it, not what does it not go over.
I bet your vibration is causing harmonic imbalances in your oil that translates the vibrations into an electrical charge much like an electrical transformer that interferes with the propylene glycol in your coolant making it transfer heat improperly from the engine, so your gauge reads low.
I bet your vibration is causing harmonic imbalances in your oil that translates the vibrations into an electrical charge much like an electrical transformer that interferes with the propylene glycol in your coolant making it transfer heat improperly from the engine, so your gauge reads low.
05-20-12, 10:42 PM
#32
so it really doesn't bother me.
whatever makes people feel better i guess
And I said, what is it, not what does it not go over.
I bet your vibration is causing harmonic imbalances in your oil that translates the vibrations into an electrical charge much like an electrical transformer that interferes with the propylene glycol in your coolant making it transfer heat improperly from the engine, so your gauge reads low.
I bet your vibration is causing harmonic imbalances in your oil that translates the vibrations into an electrical charge much like an electrical transformer that interferes with the propylene glycol in your coolant making it transfer heat improperly from the engine, so your gauge reads low.
05-20-12, 10:47 PM
#33
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Then maybe the reverse is true....your malfunctioning gauge is causing your coolant to transfer the engine heat into the oil, make it boil, which we all know oil boils very vigorously, which then causes your vibration.
This only started recently when you did the donuts that brought your oil into contact with hot wire from the coolant temp sensor.
This only started recently when you did the donuts that brought your oil into contact with hot wire from the coolant temp sensor.
05-20-12, 10:49 PM
#34
Then maybe the reverse is true....your malfunctioning gauge is causing your coolant to transfer the engine heat into the oil, make it boil, which we all know oil boils very vigorously, which then causes your vibration.
This only started recently when you did the donuts that brought your oil into contact with hot wire from the coolant temp sensor.
This only started recently when you did the donuts that brought your oil into contact with hot wire from the coolant temp sensor.
05-20-12, 10:55 PM
#40
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it would only be bad if the thermo got stuck..and If you got a OEM thermo,it should last a long time.
05-20-12, 10:57 PM
#41
Ya,but if ya think about it,the engine is OK if the temp is under the the heat range of the thermostat opening.You are only concerned with the car's temp above 190 degrees.(so to speak).
it would only be bad if the thermo got stuck..and If you got a OEM thermo,it should last a long time.
it would only be bad if the thermo got stuck..and If you got a OEM thermo,it should last a long time.
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