in this case i am confused anyway.. the USDM rx7 pressure sensor gets his vacuum hose from the intake manifold nipple, the japanese and german rx7 has a terminator cap on this nipple, and the pressure sensor ist connected to a T-Splitter.. i have tried both options, the american and german one, without any differences..

as i bought the car 2 months ago, the boostgage worked very fine all the way driving home, it went up to 0 with ignition ON, and up to 2/3 of boost, worked very fine. then one day i expected it going bad.. since then its constantly crappy.. i dont know what could cause this . the power ist ok, and the car is running nice..

i had a mechanical boostgage connected to the vacuum hoses, there is enough vacuum (-17psi) and i get nice boost if i push the accelerator, ok a way to much... cuz my cat-back exhaust is rusty like hell with big holes in it, so i try to drive with care because of fuel cut, i get 14psi at 4000rpm, then in drops to 8-9psi constantly the way up to 6000 (racing beat cat-back is ordered )

 

heh this title made me giggle up inside.
Someone sticky this quote.

 

i have low oil pressure issues as well. seems to read about 15psi low when everything is warmed up. and reads more like 20psi low during high speed interstate driving. I was told that the front cover o-ring may be messed up. if not the o-ring, them my bearings are worn. i have an early style 13B eccentric shaft.....so i don't have a thermal pellet.

 

then i think the the o-ring is your primary problem.. i hope to get my car fixed this saturday, and put a bunch of washers to the pellet

 

Could the O-Ring repair be done while the engine is in the car??? Its ether that or the Pellet... not to mention the gas in the oil aswell... damnit too many problems and not enough ***** to pull it apart...

 

yes you can do it in the car, cleaning the gasket material off is the hardest part while trying to keep dirt and debris out of the oil pan though. also beware of the fron't thrust bearings, there is warnings about this in the FSM/haynes manuals.

 

i was going to make the same question. is it possible to change the o-ring while the engine is in the car? if yes, what do i have to do? i have to block the flywheel, but are there other solutions?

 

there is a couple of methods, one is setting a breaker bar on the frame rail while bumping the starter to loosen the front bolt but this is kind of dangerous. if you have access to a large electric impact or air impact gun then just use that to zip the front bolt out. the rest of the procedure should be in the FSM.

 

It's a pain in the butt, though it can be done. You need to remove the front cover which means pulling the oil pan, front hub, etc.

 

i've talked to several people about the o-ring fix. they suggested not using the front cover gasket and using a thinner o-ring. the problem is finding an o-ring with the correct section width. a guy at RWS suggested using a section width 20% thicker than the recess in the housing. i measured the recess at .035" and OD at .650". by that, i came up with a required section width of .042". The closest o-ring i found at the hardware store is 1/16" x 5/8" OD. which is .069" x .625". i'm not sure if the .069" is just way too thick or would still work. after all, it's rubber. it'll squish down right?

 

why not using a copper one? it would last a bit longer then rubber i think

 

it could be the gauge failing also. Im thinking of putting an aftermarket gauge in for the water temp and oil pressure. My oil was just changed also(20-50) im trying to figure out whats up cause before the oil was changed the pressure on the gauge was fine. Every now and than I will look down it will be reading 0 at 50 mph but then jump right up. Thinking it might be the gauge or a wire loose. Anyone?

 

actually, yes, a friend also suggested that the stock guage or pressure sender could also be faulty.

 

If you go messing with the therm. pellet......make sure you get it installed tight.....with some lock-tite to hold it in.

Mine came loose right after we installed the new engine (thankfully, during idle) but it will make a mess under the engine bay and scare the **** out of you when oil starts flying out of the engine bay. Reminded me of a hemoraging patient in the E.R. in a bad medical movie

 

anybody got there oil issues solved?

 

still didnt fix my problems hope to do so in the next weeks

 

that sucks man, i have to replace my rear seal and drop my oil pan and front cover again. O-ring didnt work, so pump may be bad. What FUN!!