Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

Well, I was driving around today and I noticed that at idle my oil preasure guage in my dash was reading just above the 0 mark. At approx. 3k RPM my preasure guage is reading 30. When I first bought the car, it was reading 30 at idle. So, do I have a problem somewhere? Anyway I can check?

Just changed my oil, and it smelled strongly of gasoline. Vehicle had been flooded about 300 miles before the oil change. What happened was...... I changed the flywheel / clutch ,etc. It was flooded when I changed the oil, but I unflooded it. Didn't change the oil until now, about 300-400 miles later. What areas should I check? Thanks alot.

Carzy Driver

do a compression check, sometimes when a car has bad flooding problems the gas will eat the soft oil seals, maybe explaining why you smelled gas in the oil.

Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

Well, I popped my hood today... and the inside of my engine bay is covered in oil....

So, I really need some help guys. Where should I be looking? I am thinking maybe oil is being shot on the fan and flung everywhere? Uhg.... just got back to driving it...

Thanks again!

Fitness Stain

did you recently change your oil filter?

check to make sure that you didnt leave behind an oilfilter oring on the pedestal ... i did that same thing about 2 weeks ago, and almost sold mycar for a really cheap price over something extremely simple


edit:

just read your full first post ..

i assume you changed the filter when you changed the oil ..... check the oil filter .. take it off .. look at the pedestal to make sure theres not an extra o ring there .. then check the bottom of the filter to make sure there isnt one stuck there ..

easy thing to check ...

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

That will have nothing to do with compression.

Gas DOES NOT eat the oil o-rings. They are designed to be in a gasoline rich environment.

If there is a major oil leak, DO NOT drive the car especially if the pressure is low. First check for something obvious like a cracked oil cooler line. If there's nothing obvious, degrease the engine bay, fill the oil a little past full, start the car and let it idle while you examine the engine for leaks.

Such a large leak will be easy to spot.

Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys. I am going to fill it up a little later today and see if I can find it. I had to drive it approx. 20 miles to get it to where I could work on it. I hope nothing is broken. I will fill it up and then look around.

charge

iTrader: (1)

hey guys,

@Rx7TyreBurna
something new about your problem?

@ all
i just changed my oil 250miles ago after we noticed much gasoline in the oil. i used 10w40 weight like most other EU 7 drivers. now im using castrol 20w50gtx. i thought would get better oilpressure too, since it seems really bad

well, now (250miles after oilchange with oem mazda filter) the oil smells badly of gasoline again!, i filled it up to FULL, now it rised cuz of the gasoline about one mark above FULL

and i have some problems with my oil-p
if i start the engine its alwas between 30 and 60psi (2 and 4 kg) and never higher. at 3000rpm it walks up to 50psi, but most of the time at 45psi i think, just in the middle between 30 and 60.. if i run the car hard over the "autobahn", lets say about 130-140mph, the gage drops down to 35!! but it should go up and not down at higher rpm right? never seen it showing me above 50psi.. im really worried, pls help!

oh! we ve checked for oil leaks, found nothing!

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

ecc shaft thermowax pellet failed?

charge

iTrader: (1)

my friend was saying the same..
so its really weird cuz the car runs like a champ, and gets a bunch of gas in oil just after 250miles!

is ecc shaft thermowax pellet primary failure? or could it be injectors or something like that also?

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/ENGINE/OIL/etpbypass.htm

a very good explanatin of what and how a thermowax pellet works.

charge

iTrader: (1)

hey thx for this link mayb its my problem!

but what do you think about the bunch of gas in my oil just after 200miles?? could it be the same problem or should it be something else?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Fuel in the oil would not be caused by a failed eccentric oil bypass. It would be a result of worn side seals (excessive blow by), worn oil o-rings or an overly rich mixture.

charge

iTrader: (1)

my gasmilage is ok, i havent done a compression test, but my vacuum at idle is about 17psi.
does it help a lil bit? my friend told me that the side seals should be very fine.

nukeall

whats the regular operation of the oil pressure ?? i know mines is at 30 at idle ... and then when ipush the car it goes up to 60 is what is normal and not normal???

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Sounds fine. Side seal wear only really happens if they were installed improperly from the start. So you're looking at a purge problem or an overly rich mixture. Test the purge valve as covered in the Factory or Haynes service manuals.

That's fine.

drft_180sx

OK not to thread jack. But i have the exact same problem as the original poster!

Ok so a few weeks ago i noticed some liquid under my intake manifold, and automatically thought PD, but it happened to be that one of the Oil Injection lines popped off (rear rotor). I fixed that, but I am stilling getting the low oil pressure. There seems to be some oilby the filter area, and a friend suggested my oil pressure sender unit? Any idea would help...

I will check for any extra washers on my oil pedestal on the next oil change, but any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Jahan

charge

iTrader: (1)

so im going to modify the themowax pellet, hope to get better pressure

the other thing i ve noticed is, that it seems there is less fuel in the oil, if i use 100octane RON which is available in germany. i think its just a lil bit higher than premium in usa (93 MON), so 100octane RON to compare with 94-95MON as far as i know.

and now just a question OT: if i turn the ignition ON, should my boost needle go up to 0? mine is laying down at -20kg/cm², i also experiance vacuum all the time, and under boost.
yesterday i plugged a mechanical boostgage to the T fitting, i get boost and the power is really fine, but the needle starts vibrating under boost, and the vibrating becomes very hard with more boost! wtf.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The metering oil nozzles have nothing to do with oil pressure. Checking the schematic in the FSM on the oiling system, you can see that the metering oil system does NOT share engine oil pressure as it has it's own pump that only pumps a few CCs a minute.

It is common for oil to be covering the sender unit. It's either left over from many oil changes, or leaking from between the filter pedistal and engine. There are two o-rings between the parts that will wear out and leak over time.

It could also be the sender itself. The first thing to do if you suspect a low oil pressure problem is to verify with another gauge. The stock sender has been known to fail and read incorrectly.

This will only help if your thermo pellet has failed.

That's a problem. Make sure your pressure sensor is plugged in and operating correctly.

charge

iTrader: (1)

yea im going to check it like in the service manual, i have just one more question.

if the sensor ist bad, or even if i plug it off, does it effect my ecu and the driveability or not? i guess no.. cuz with a fuel cut defendet the sensor ist all the way down, but i want to go sure, so im asking for it

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

It seriously effects drivability. Can cause major hesitations, timing advance will be all off, etc.

charge

iTrader: (1)

so.. if i install the fuel cut defenser it will be pass the sensor, so i could experiance hesitations etc. because my sensor is off?
ich have looked down to my boostgauge, and it seems there is an elctric problem.. if i turn the ignition ON the needle wents up only 1m MAX., so lets say from very botom to -20mmHg..

i think i have found the explanation of my problem, and wanted to let it know all the others, who experiances the same symptoms like me:

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm

it explains exactly the problem im looking at with my 7, hope to fix it soon.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The FCD is just a voltage clamp. It takes the voltage from the pressure sensor and modifies the signal so that the ECU will only see it increase up to a certain point. If the sensor is disconnected, regardless of whether you have a FCD or not, you will have issues.

charge

iTrader: (1)

i see.. thx
is the service manual testing the most efficient way to test the pressure sensor?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

It's as good a way as any. In fact, testing the voltage while drawing a vacuum/applying pressure is the ONLY way.

HAILERS

Since the boost gauge needle moves when you go to ON with the key, I"d suspect the vacuum LINE b/t the boost sensor and where it connects to the intake manifold being bad. Maybe a split hose?

With the engine idling, pull the vacuum hose off the boost sensor and feel for vacuum on the hose..........or not.

And, is the boost sensor vacuum hose going to the right place on the intake manifold?