driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

So I purchased a prosport water temp gauge, http://prosportgauges.com/45mm-water...ure-gauge.aspx

Was excited to install it, thought I had the right fitting for it to fit in and I pop it out and compare and I

I ended up getting a 1/8in NPT fitting instead of 1/8 BSP...now this is where i need some help. What is the best method ( BESIDES TAPPING INTO THE ENGINE OR WATER PUMP) to get this bitch in? I received an adapter kit, (http://prosportgauges.com/metric-adaptor-kit.aspx) but it isnt deep enough for the fitting. If I put a fitting on a fitting on a fitting, how poor will my "temp reading" be?

The temp probe is too wide in diameter to even fit in the damn hole...can I sand it down to get it in there a bit?

Are there any soft hoses I can cut into and install the fitting? The one near the BAC valve maybe?

This really sucks, I just want to read my damn temperature and its being so frigging difficult!

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

Get some fittings ($6 total) and Tee into the BAC coolant line. I'd try and get a shitty picture up.

(im using the same electric prosport gauge)

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

You can barely see between the throttle body/firewall the brass fittings. Cut the coolant line then tee the fittings in between it. Easy as pie and will give you fair readings. IF this is going to be a track car i'd say drill/tap the back of the water pump or front. I forget

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

what do your "temperatures" read on there?

Also any chance you could get a closer image? i was planning on doing what you chose but read on that doing behind the water pump was the best place. i'd like to see what kind of fittings you used.

Thanks!!

JerryLH3

iTrader: (11)

Here's what I did years ago on my previous FC:



It's a brass cross, one end had the temp sensor for my fan control, one the temp sensor for my water temp gauge. You could obviously just use a T fitting.

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

Behind the water pump is the best place, pre-t'stat t be specific. But you mentioned you don't want to take off/tap the pump... Fortunately, the BAC coolant line is fed from the right location behind the pump. That line is good. You will get the proper reading of what the engine temp really is. Some others will put the sensor in the radiator hoses. Which either tell you the temp AFTER the radiator, or will not read accurate until the t'stat opens. Either method isn't an accurate temp reading.

On a side note, my car is fairly modified. I removed that BAC feed line bung from behind the pump housing, tapped it, and put my aftermarket sensor there. Same source!

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

If i recall correctly 185-195 is fine? I actually forgot though, haven't driven it since feb but i start it every once in a while.

beefhole

iTrader: (29)

^that's good and normal. Now that it's cooler if I let my car just idle, it won't even go past 178! Max I see driving is 195, and I have a front mount. Really anything steady under 210 is safe.

FelixIsGod29X

iTrader: (50)

Yeah i thought 210 was the limit.

Got some questions off the topic so im goin to pm you beefhole.

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

I really appreciate it. Tomorrow I will take a look back there to see if I can find a good spot to T into the line.

Thank you so much!

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

The problem is with a T fitting, since the temp sensor is so deep it wouldnt work, looks like i'd have to go with a cross and then a plug maybe?

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

so i planned on T-ing off the original spot on the engine block but i ran into a new problem...

The first image is the temp probe that i have, not 1/8th inch BSP....the second picture is, but that is not the one i have. the 1/8 inch ANYTHING does not fit inside...what do i need?! this is getting old quick............

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

you could follow the advice of the guys who posted above you, and still retain the function of your stock water gauge adding insurance to your water temp monitoring abilities?

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

all of those coolant lines have been removed. the only coolant lines i have are the ones leaving the water pump to the radiator and back, and the ones going to and from the heater core. all others have been blocked off.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Did you tap and screw in a bolt to cap off the water line from the rear iron and the same on the back of the water pump when you removed all the other coolant lines?? If so, find a brass fitting to screw in there instead of the bolt, throw a line from rear iron to back of the pump and use the method mentioned above. If you didn't tap and block off that way and the nipples are still there but blocked off somehow then do the same as above but it saves you a step.

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

when the engine was rebuilt by rotary ressurection he used JB weld in those holes to keep that from leaking. the barbs are still there.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

Ahhhhh.... well it looks like you are going to be doing some drilling and tapping then. You could use a radiator hose adapter if you wanted to go the easy route, but if you want to be absolutely secure you should remove the water pump, and drill and tap either in the back or in the front.... there are many any many threads covering where / how to do this.

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

On second thought, the line going TO the heater core might be able to be used? Its plumbed straight from the block, correct? Somebody may want to chime in for / against that cuz Im not sure.

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

my father said that is what i should do too. i should t across the line going to and from the heater core that way there is always a constant flow of coolant, plus it will be behind the thermostat. i just dont know how i feel cutting into those hoses...

MIDNFauciUSN

iTrader: (8)

I bought one of these gauges from Prosport at a car show for my Mazda 3... They also sold me a coupling that installed in the upper or lower radiator hose with a built in bung for their sensor...

I suppose your are going for something more accurate than the stock gauge... but how accurate are you trying to get? Does the sensor's locat make that much of a difference to you?

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

http://www.jegs.com/i/Auto+Meter/105/2269/10002/-1

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

MIDNFauciUSN: anything will be more accurate than what i have right now...which is close to nothing.

87 t-66: i do not have the 1/8in BSP fitting on my engine. it is something smaller. there were two options. when i went to mazdatrix here is the description: “81-88 Water temperature sensor
Straight thread, seals with a crush washer
(Please select the sensor that matches the one in your engine)”

http://mazdatrix.com/86-92Electrical-Engine.htm there is the link.

also i really appreciate everyone helping.

87 t-66

iTrader: (133)

the oem sensor on the rear iron isn't that size? maybe it's just the oil pressure sensor

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

apparently there were too different rear irons. of course i got the crappy one

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I have a coupling in my Upper rad hose.I installed the sensor there.
The only Thing about putting it there is that your Readings will only be good after your Thermostat opens up..But I Don't mind that as I can see the Temp go up on my Rtek,through my Palm pilot.